EdF Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 I've got an '02 90 and it has a couple of annoying problems I've never had on a previous 90. The drivers side bonnet hinge is 'loose', that is, at speed the rear of the bonnet bangs up and down quite often, but due to the 'quick release' nature of it, I can't see how to rectify it. The other problem is that the drivers side air vent makes a lot of wind noise as it's not closing fully. As I've changed bulkheads twice before (on other 90's) I know the mechanism is simple but a pig to get at. Short of putting tape or silicone sealant around it, I'm at a loss to know what to do. Anyone come across either of these traits before? Together they're a sodding nuisance. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 still got the plastic bush doofer on the bonnet hinge? sounds exactly like when that is missing. I think I did a bit of gentle bending of my vent to make it a bit more of a flush fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 Yes it sounds like the plastic bushing in the bonnet hinge might be worn or missing, if not then try adjusting the rubber bump stops under the leading edge. If the vent hingepins are still ok and you don't fancy accessing the vent catch mechanism then think about replacing the vent seal itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooner Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 Yes it sounds like the plastic bushing in the bonnet hinge might be worn or missing, if not then try adjusting the rubber bump stops under the leading edge. If the vent hingepins are still ok and you don't fancy accessing the vent catch mechanism then think about replacing the vent seal itself. If the vents still have the foam 'seal' (term used lightly ) replace it with a rubber one as found on earlier 90's/110's. My 98 110 had the foam seal which had crumbled to pieces. I changed both mine to rubber one to stop it leaking - both sides are now dry and wind-noise free. I got my seals from Paddocks (Britpart) - fit was fine. Just remove the pins (6mm spanner) from the top of the vent and then slide the new seal over the vent, one end at a time. No need to remove the arm mechanism this way. As for the bonnet - agree with the others, sound like the plastic bit is missing. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 My bonnet on the new 110 is like this. The easy solution to a rattly bonnet is to get two of the new-type lower shock absorber bushes (RNF100190L I think) as fitted to the bottom of Td5 age 90/110 rear shockers, and put these between the bonnet and the bulkhead when the bonnet is up. Lower the bonnet and it will close onto the bushes and squish them a bit - voila - tight bonnet You could glue them to the bulkhead if you wanted to make it permanent, but I found they just stay there even when you open the bonnet again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nas90 Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 My bonnet on the new 110 is like this. The easy solution to a rattly bonnet is to get two of the new-type lower shock absorber bushes (RNF100190L I think) as fitted to the bottom of Td5 age 90/110 rear shockers, and put these between the bonnet and the bulkhead when the bonnet is up. Lower the bonnet and it will close onto the bushes and squish them a bit - voila - tight bonnet You could glue them to the bulkhead if you wanted to make it permanent, but I found they just stay there even when you open the bonnet again. Sorry to pinch your post but I have exactly the opposite problem on the nas! From ever since LR built my nas the left front wing has had no paint where the bonnet shuts, neither has the bonnet on the underside lip got any paint either! I have adjusted the front rubber stops but to get clearance between the bonnet and wing there is a massive gap at the front over the radiator valance Now in the near future I am fitting a new front wing to replace the slightly modified existing wing not sure how that happened so when the new wing goes on is there enough adjustment to drop the wing a few millimetres to keep the paint on both the new wing and repainted bonnet? Guess now the blooming bonnet will rattle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted January 7, 2008 Share Posted January 7, 2008 With regards to the vent seals I go the other way. I never found that the rubber seals were very good at sealing, when new they were too thick to allow the flap to close fully and when old they tended to be a bit stiff for a good air-tight seal. I found fitting the later foam-rubber item solved the sealing problem completely and as a genuine part, they were cheaper than even pattern rubber seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted January 10, 2008 Author Share Posted January 10, 2008 Sorry not to have acknowledged all the helpful replies but I've been away and the 'notify when there's a reply' hasn't worked (again).. The plastic thingie is still in the hinge and not worn. I thought initially that a tiewrap around the swivelling bit might hold it together but there's no room. I'll certainly try the rubber bush option and adjusting the 'bumpstops', also the vent seal. It is the later model with the foam seals. I think the vehicle hasn't been put together too well from new (I doubt it's had a prang) as when the bonnet is opened I have to be careful that the offending hinge doesn't come apart and the bonnet sail away, and the drivers door doesn't fit well. Something to be said for monocoque bodies, I suppose.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Happyoldgit Posted January 10, 2008 Share Posted January 10, 2008 If you are opening the bonnet just as far as the prop will allow then there ought to be no danger of the hinge coming out, this will only happen if you open it to near vertical which will allow the bonnet to pull out from the slot in the plastic hinge bushing. Monocoque or not a badly fitted / adjusted door is a badly fitted door, if it does not fit well then it should be a matter of adjusting the hinges & striker - sure it's not the seals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdF Posted March 7, 2008 Author Share Posted March 7, 2008 If you are opening the bonnet just as far as the prop will allow then there ought to be no danger of the hinge coming out, this will only happen if you open it to near vertical which will allow the bonnet to pull out from the slot in the plastic hinge bushing. Monocoque or not a badly fitted / adjusted door is a badly fitted door, if it does not fit well then it should be a matter of adjusting the hinges & striker - sure it's not the seals? Finally did the bonnet job yesterday, it's been raining since January.... Fitted a couple of black plastic conical 'seals' for roofing nails with M6 countersunk stainless bolts under the back side edges of the bonnet. The 'seals' were a couple of mil larger than the gap but have a soft edge which compresses and they worked a treat. Miserableolgit (so, there are two of us!) I'd have to take you to task over the above as with the bonnet up and on it's prop, the 'tongue' on the offside bonnet half of the hinge (at least) would just lift out of it's plastic slot on the bulkhead. If a bit of a gust got under it, there would be nothing to stop it sailing away.. I'll be securing it with a bungee in future! Doesn't look distorted and I've pulled a few bonnets off in my time (I've owned about twelve 90's...) but I'd agree that you normally have to have them vertical before you can pull them off.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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