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white90

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if you have the 6mm free play at the pedal pad, then it shouldn't need adjustment, if less or more than 6mm then it'll need adjustment. last time I did mine, I took the cover plate off, undid the nut nearest the front of the vehicle, pushed the rod towards the master cylinder until I felt it contact the piston & then measured the distance from the trunnion to the upper locknut, as it was almost spot-on, I let the rod go & retightened the lower nut, refitted the cover, sorted :D

does that help?

:D

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if you have the 6mm free play at the pedal pad, then it shouldn't need adjustment, if less or more than 6mm then it'll need adjustment. last time I did mine, I took the cover plate off, undid the nut nearest the front of the vehicle, pushed the rod towards the master cylinder until I felt it contact the piston & then measured the distance from the trunnion to the upper locknut, as it was almost spot-on, I let the rod go & retightened the lower nut, refitted the cover, sorted :D

does that help?

:D

Ralph - bit i have highlighted helps greatly thats part of the bit i missed!

6mm free play - ie the pedal move 6mm before it does anything?

what should it measure then trunion to upper lock nut to be spot on 1.5mm?

so in your description above if you pushed it to take the slack, measured it and it was spot on then released it and retightend then it was OK? or i am missing something else you adjusted.

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free play is movement before any thing else moves aka backlash.

measure the gap between the trunnion & upper lock nut, if Ok, release & tighten lower locknut.

after I found the free play was OK, tha was all didn't aqdjusted anything else.

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Pulled the old clutch today

the pressure plate shows signs of overheating approx 9 hot spots

some hot spots on flywheel 5-10mm elipse shape also

radial rainbow effect on pressure plate also apparent.

will try and get some decent pictures.

no oil contamination in bell housing or on any clutch component

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post-5-1204907179_thumb.jpg

post-5-1204907202_thumb.jpg

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I know I am joining this a bit late, but in our workshop we only fit VALEO 130 clutches, partly because that's what our supplier stocks. I do notice he has a lot of clutches with red/black boxes with AP on them, but they are for things like Freelanders. Our TD5 clutches are also VALEO. A couple of weeks ago we took a LUK clutch out of a Defender 200 tdi (a rare animal here) and it looked really cheap and nasty. Also the people who changed it had not changed the clutch fork, and it was about to go, having star cracks. We weld a shock absorber washer on new forks, so they will never go.

I had to explain to the owner that the job cost a lot of money because we change everything, fork, release bearing, Pressure plate and driven plate, plastic thingys and the spigot bush as well.

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Tony,

My immediate reaction is that you had a faulty pressure plate, and this together with the incorrect adjustment has caused the early demise of the centre plate.

TBH the centre plate does not look that worn, however I strongly suspect the pressure plate has high spots on it. I guess its not worth doing too much checking, but if you have a perfect straight edge you can make some checks across the pressure plate surface, however, it is not an easy task.

Another area to look at is the release fingers …….. are they all perfectly lined up ? are some slightly higher or lower then others ?………. Here 1mm makes is all it takes to be faulty.

The flywheel has slight surface cracking but this is normal. Give the flywheel a good clean up with some 240 wet n dry (do it wet with paraffin) just to clean up …. … then finally dry off with a good brake cleaner or panel wipe and leave to air dry .

On final reassembly ……… check the freeplay again as it will have altered.

When doing the reassembly put a small amount of HMP moly grease on the gearbox splines and spigot bush

:)

Ian

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more pics

Tony, bad luck.

I think Ian's spot on with his diagnosis - in picture 2 you can see some misaligned fingers. Also interesting to note the crack in the pressure plate in pitcure 5...

So, are you going over to a paddle clutch?

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Guest WALFY
Will that isn't a crack it is where I marked it with a scribe to test the metal condition of the hot spot

paddle clutch is indeed here

Good to see the relay system working and quickly

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I think the clutch on my 1986 110csw 2.5na is on it,s way out.I have read through this thread and would like to ask which replacement would be the best to go for. Would it be the 130 type or are they just the same as the 110. I do a bit of off roading / heavy green lanes / private sites and every day use. I just want something that will last. What sort of money would you expect to pay for a clutch kit complete. I hope to tackle the replacement myself :o .

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your flywheel is different to a Tdi one, so the Tdi HD clutch probably won't fit, parts info says friction plate FTC4204 & pressure cover URB100760 which is oddly exactly the same as specced for Tdi engines & 130 HD clutch, so it might be possible to fit the 130 friction plate FTC1994, try it & see, but don't blame me if it doesn't fit.

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Tony, probably my English fails on me, what does it mean "pressure plate is different" and "same cover plate"?

The way I know these name in English is the same like here: http://static.howstuffworks.com/flash/clutch-fig5.swf (and Clutch Disc as alternative for Clutch Plate). What I would understand by "cover plate" is "cover + pressure plate"= "clutch cover assembly". Where do I get it wrong?

Or should I read it "pressure plate is different" and "same cover plate"? that is they all use the same cover but pressure plate is different?

Also, if not much trouble, could you please post a picture of the Valeo cover from the top so all the markings/codes/logos/whatever can be seen/read ? TIA

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