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Hand brake slipping!


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I would just take the whole thing apart and see what is wrong.

If you look at the exploded drawing in the Haynes you can see how it all goes together, the expander unit could probably do with a good clean out and you will be able to check the condition of the shoes and whether you have an oil-leak or not.

Give yourself a couple of hours and you can have the whole unit stripped, cleaned & reassembled, if you find you need new parts then you will have to be prepared to either wait for them to arrive before completing the job or taking it apart again a few days later.

Well worth stripping it as you will be surprised how light the action can be and effective the brake is when working correctly.

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Guest otchie1

wot litch said.

The handbrake properly cleaned and adjusted has all that wonderful self-wrap helping bind when on and is completely free of the drum when off.

The cable adjuster is just for cable slack; the proper adjuster on the brake back plate is the way to go.

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I had the same problem for a long time, despite my 110 being serviced by specialists twice in 18 months, so I made the decision to do the job myself and figured that if I was going to spend time underneath stripping the thing, I may as well replace it and be guaranteed it'll work. So, I bit the bullet and fitted a new X-Brake.

If you need new brake shoes or any other form of expenditure on the transmission brake, bear in mind you COULD offset those costs towards an X-Brake and forget about it for another 10 years.

However, I'm told the drum brake does work very well when correctly adjusted. I've just never experienced it.

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The X-Brake is the trade-name of a brake-disc & caliper kit which replaces the standard transmission drum-brake, some other manufacturers use a disc for the transmission brake but LR have always stuck with the (proven) drum.

As with any drum-brake, the standard LR transmission brake rapidly looses effectiveness when full of mud and/or water and is prone to rapid wear in these conditions whereas a disc-brake has always been more resiliant.

If you spend a lot of time up to the chassis rails in water and seem to be replacing the standard shoes every few months then they are a very worthwhile investment but if you spend most of your time on the tarmac or do just a little light green-laning then just sort out the standard brake as it is a very effective piece of kit when working correctly and lack of/ poor maintenece is not really a good reason to replace it.

I think the current price is £219.99+P&P and possibly the price of a new cable and I believe fitting is about the same time it takes to strip & rebuild a standard transmission brake (i.e. around 2-hrs).

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X-brake

dismantle the drum and clean and rebuild the expander and adjuster, it doesn't take that long.

adjust the shoes up properly using the (now clean!) adjuster and it should be easy to get it sorted for three clicks, assuming your transfer box isn't leaking oil onto the shoes.

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"it should be easy to get it sorted for three clicks"

I agree.

My handbrake is always correctly adjusted and is very light in operation, there is no need to pull it on hard as the third click is enough to hold it on the steepest of inclines. What gets up my nose is when other drivers pull it on as hard as they can as they just aren't used to the roll you get with a transmission handbrake and they operate it as they would in a car.

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