Anglo-Frenchman Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 I'm shortly going to start the replacement of my leaking cooling pipes (see earlier thread) but thought I'd prepare the way by removing the plastic undershield. Well, I'd reckoned without those nice folk at LR who in their wisdom have made it (seemingly) impossible to remove without removing the front steering assembly, front axle ....... what bl#^@dy pain in the rear end. Am I being especially thick here or is there a simple way to get this piece of cr*p off so that I can actually access the underside of the engine bay? I know that a previous correspondent said he had had to cut it in half to get it out but surely that can't be right? Those helpful fellows at Haynes state 'remove the front prop-shaft, undo the undershield retaining screws and remove.' what a load of rubbish. The wretched thing snags on about a dozen other things befire getting anywhere near the prop-shaft! Aaaaaaarrrghhhh!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 big hammer no idea - ROW spec D2's don't have the silly under trays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 Big hammer or a saw is definately 'Plan B' but I'm trying to be mature about it before throwing my dummy out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woff Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Its definately the quickest way to do the complete job by removing the shield by breaking the cover up. I heard that once you have it off it's just as or even more harder to put back in. I say smash it up to remove, then once off jump up and down on cover to vent fustration If you want to it properly take it down to the dealer and let them stuggle over it, I imagine that infact you could lift the body from the axel to gain some manoverability and then you could slide it out. Just done another DII same problem with leaky pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 Cheers Woff - sounds as though its going to be the merry sound of hacksaw-against-plastic. Incidentally I have a theory that this undershield thing is simply LR's way to hide all the leaks from the sump/transfer box/gearbox etc and pretend that the build quality has improved! Ged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDB Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Cheers Woff - sounds as though its going to be the merry sound of hacksaw-against-plastic. Incidentally I have a theory that this undershield thing is simply LR's way to hide all the leaks from the sump/transfer box/gearbox etc and pretend that the build quality has improved!Ged ......and there was me thinking I might put one on (I have one spare) - but had no clips or method of attachment - will it help keep water(mud) from spraying up the inside?? If so I might be interested in your clips/screws and how it goes on!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Am I being especially thick here or is there a simple way to get this piece of cr*p off so that I can actually access the underside of the engine bay? I know that a previous correspondent said he had had to cut it in half to get it out but surely that can't be right?Those helpful fellows at Haynes state 'remove the front prop-shaft, undo the undershield retaining screws and remove.' what a load of rubbish. I make no point except to suggest a comparison between Haynes instructions, which you will recall they write as they take the vehicle apart, and the words below, which are borrowed from a D2 Workshop manual. I assume the 'remove soundproofing' steps are optional. There was only one picture, and as it only showed the obvious ball joint tool in operation, I have deemed it not worth the bandwidth. Panel - underbelly Repair operation 76.10.50 Remove 1. Raise front of vehicle, support underbody and lower front axle 2. Remove nut securing drag link to drop arm. 3. Using tool LRT-57-036 break taper joint and release drag link from drop arm. 4. Remove nut and bolt securing steering damper to chassis and remove damper. 5. Remove 7 screws securing underbelly panel. 6. Remove underbelly panel. 7. Remove 7 studs securing sound deadening to underbelly panel. 8. Remove sound deadening. Refit 1. Position sound deadening to underbelly panel and secure with studs. 2. Fit underbelly panel and secure with screws. 3. Position steering damper, fit nut and bolt and tighten to 125 Nm (92 lbf.ft) 4. Fit drag link to drop arm and tighten nut to 80 Nm (59 lbf.ft). 5. Lower front of vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglo-Frenchman Posted March 31, 2008 Author Share Posted March 31, 2008 Thanks all. I have now removed the wretched thing in one piece thus: (by the way, Woff thanks for the flash of inspiration) Jacked front of chassis up as far as I dare to create space above axle - removed front end of front prop shaft - undid panel screws and slid (kicked) it out - re-secured front end of prop (with new ny-locks) - burnt Haynes manual - lowered jack - went to have a bath! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 Don't burn the Haynes manual - you need it to have a laugh in the bath Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rickspark Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Hello gents, thought I'd make a quick posting because this thread has been really useful for me today. I'm working towards removing my steering box to replace the seal. As mentioned, the Haynes manual guidance falls a bit short in this instance. I managed to remove the under shield without doing 4. I did everything else suggested in this thread and supported the chassis member of the drivers side so I could lower the axle on that side. The cover slid out pretty easily, intact and in one piece. Can imagine dealers discard it so its great to be able to do the job right. Thanks Rickspark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannytd5 Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 You end up getting that f@@ kin annoyed that you don't give a 5hit anymore and you rip the f47ker off Ask me how I know coat n gone lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M&S Posted May 8, 2011 Share Posted May 8, 2011 Mine went in the wheelie bin If you are working on these vehicles yourself and/or using them off-road at all, just leave it off. What could be a quick visual inspection to diagnose a fault/leak etc at the side of the road isn't really possible, and a simple "get me home repair" becomes a ball-ache of a job with the cover in place. It's supposed to help with soundproofing, like the top engine cover which, you've guessed it, I no longer have in place either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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