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Series 2a 21/4 engine swap


Bigant

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Hi Guys

So I battled on for a while trying to get the new engine and the gearbox to come together and eventually gave up.

So I disconnected the gearbox and slid it back a bit and then dropped the new engine in.

The easy bit, or so I thought would be to offer up the gearbox, do up the studs reconnect evrything and that would be that.

Oh no, no matter what I tried I could not get the gearbox to line up correctly. I managed to get a couple of nuts on the top of the bell housing and thought I would then be able to do them up in sequence drawing the two together. This just wouldn't happen.

So my question is, has anyone else encountered this problem?

The back plate opf the new engine is a differnt shape to the one on the engine I removed but the studs do line up with the holes in the bell housing and it is the same depth.

The clutch plate is good, it is still aligned properly so the drive shaft should go in no problem. Did they ever change the diameter of the "hole" in the flywheel that takes the shaft or indeed did they change teh diameter of the drive shaft?

If anyone can shed any light on this it would be appreciated, I am running out of time and hair.............from pulling it out!!

Regards

Bigant

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Take the clutch off, make sure it fits the splines on the gearbox, and then try offering up the engine with no clutch on it, to see if it will go together.

That should point towards a problem, if there is one.... engines/gearboxes are notoriously difficult to line up sometimes....

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Take the clutch off, make sure it fits the splines on the gearbox, and then try offering up the engine with no clutch on it, to see if it will go together.

That should point towards a problem, if there is one.... engines/gearboxes are notoriously difficult to line up sometimes....

Hi Mate

Thanks for the tip, it makes sense and I will check the clutch mates with the splines. I am using the clutch and clutch cover that came withthe engine as both were almost new. I still have the clutch bits off the original engine both of which are also in good order so I can try these if this turns out to be the problem.

Regards

Anthony

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Hi Guys

So I battled on for a while trying to get the new engine and the gearbox to come together and eventually gave up.

So I disconnected the gearbox and slid it back a bit and then dropped the new engine in.

The easy bit, or so I thought would be to offer up the gearbox, do up the studs reconnect evrything and that would be that.

Oh no, no matter what I tried I could not get the gearbox to line up correctly. I managed to get a couple of nuts on the top of the bell housing and thought I would then be able to do them up in sequence drawing the two together. This just wouldn't happen.

So my question is, has anyone else encountered this problem?

The back plate opf the new engine is a differnt shape to the one on the engine I removed but the studs do line up with the holes in the bell housing and it is the same depth.

The clutch plate is good, it is still aligned properly so the drive shaft should go in no problem. Did they ever change the diameter of the "hole" in the flywheel that takes the shaft or indeed did they change teh diameter of the drive shaft?

If anyone can shed any light on this it would be appreciated, I am running out of time and hair.............from pulling it out!!

Regards

Bigant

Try removing the rubber engine mounts from the front of the engine and support it via a jack and block of wood under the sump. Jack the engine so that the front is slightly pointing down. Then try reattaching gbox.

I had the same trouble as you, flywheel housing was on cross member and gbox level, but it still wouldn't go fully on. By dropping the front of the engine it went together. Then you can jack up the engine and pop back in the rubber mount.

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make sure the clutch and gearbox are the same type, a series 2a clutch won't work on a series 3 gearbox.

that's whAt caused the first problem last time i did this.

G.

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Try removing the rubber engine mounts from the front of the engine and support it via a jack and block of wood under the sump. Jack the engine so that the front is slightly pointing down. Then try reattaching gbox.

I had the same trouble as you, flywheel housing was on cross member and gbox level, but it still wouldn't go fully on. By dropping the front of the engine it went together. Then you can jack up the engine and pop back in the rubber mount.

Hi thanks for taking the time to post your suggestion I am sure that with everyones assistance I will get it sorted.

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The clutch input shaft will be 10-spline (all the series are), and the clutch plate will fit it - there was no variation in the hole diameter. If you are sure the clutch plate is aligned, then I wouldn't remove it, just check the centre isn't loose as this can prevent the gearbox from going back on. Pulling the box on with a bolt or two doesn't tend to work as it will pull the gearbox at an angle and jam up. If you have the nose of the input shaft in the clutch centre, then the gap remaining will be 2 1/2 inches, if the splines of the shaft are through the plate but not in the spigot bearing it will be about 1 1/2". If the centre of the clutch plate is slightly loose then you will be able to get this far as the centre will slightly misalign the shaft with the spigot bearing. Wiggling the gearbox about will not work, you have to take your time - make sure that the distance from the bell housing edge to the flywheel housing is the same all the way round, and the gearbox should slide on as far as the raised lip of the flywheel housing. At this point the studs will be sticking through far enough to put the nuts on and they can then be tightened progressively to pull it the rest of the way. If your gap is 2 1/2 inches, then the splines of the shaft might be slightly out of sync with the plate centre. Try putting the gearbox in 1st and then turn the engine to line them up.

Les.

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The clutch input shaft will be 10-spline (all the series are), and the clutch plate will fit it - there was no variation in the hole diameter. If you are sure the clutch plate is aligned, then I wouldn't remove it, just check the centre isn't loose as this can prevent the gearbox from going back on. Pulling the box on with a bolt or two doesn't tend to work as it will pull the gearbox at an angle and jam up. If you have the nose of the input shaft in the clutch centre, then the gap remaining will be 2 1/2 inches, if the splines of the shaft are through the plate but not in the spigot bearing it will be about 1 1/2". If the centre of the clutch plate is slightly loose then you will be able to get this far as the centre will slightly misalign the shaft with the spigot bearing. Wiggling the gearbox about will not work, you have to take your time - make sure that the distance from the bell housing edge to the flywheel housing is the same all the way round, and the gearbox should slide on as far as the raised lip of the flywheel housing. At this point the studs will be sticking through far enough to put the nuts on and they can then be tightened progressively to pull it the rest of the way. If your gap is 2 1/2 inches, then the splines of the shaft might be slightly out of sync with the plate centre. Try putting the gearbox in 1st and then turn the engine to line them up.

Les.

HI Les

Sound advice as always thanks for the suggestion.

Regards

Anthony

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