Greenmobile Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 Following on from a problem at the back end of last year, the 110 was cutting out whilst driving and then with all usual ignition lights on , refuse to start (starter motor not turning over). Leave it for a couple of hours and it would restart. After some advice, I replaced the ignition switch and it's been happy days since. A few months later and it did the same thing again today.. After Ralphs suggestion, I've checked the wiring to the fuel shut-off soleniod on the injection pump but all looks OK there. Anymore ideas as I'm a bit stumped with elecktrickery? Cheers, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 try swapping the start relay in the fusebox, maybe thats playing silly b*ggers or the ignition switch or starter/cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 If the starter motor does not turn over, it is normally the starter motor. The intermittent starting is often caused by heat, as you have found. When cold it works. Hang on, but a duff starter motor will not cause the engine to stop while it is running. Your stop solenoid is losing power somehow which will stop the engine. I reckon it is your starter motor solenoid, which is pulling too much power through the ignition switch and has burnt it out (again). I fixed this on a different make of car by fitting a relay into the starter circuit to cut down on the stress at the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 11, 2008 Author Share Posted May 11, 2008 That'd add up regarding when it's hot, but would that cut the engine out? Or am I being optimistic in looking for one problem when it could be two? I'll check the wiring to the starter and also Ralphs suggestions and get back to you. Cheers, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 11, 2008 Author Share Posted May 11, 2008 Did you edit that Jim or am I losing the plot? That sounds spot on, first port of call stop solenoid then. Can I check with a multi-meter? Cheers, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted May 11, 2008 Share Posted May 11, 2008 Yes I did post and then edit it. But I do think you have a fault which is causing your ignition switch to burn out. It could be the stop solenoid which is using too much power and burning out the ignition switch. Try 'hot wiring' it straight from the battery, or at least see how many amps it is taking. I would reckon your problems with the ignition switch are a symptom, not the cause of the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 Well, just been out with the multimeter to check the starter solenoid, but thought "I'll just check the battery first"... With the engine off I'm getting 18.3V and with the engine running 20.5V! Is this a tad outside the normal ranges and am I looking at a duff alternator overcharging and therefore causing the problems above down the line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 The figures seem too far out to be possible... New multimeter might be the way to go. Try find another one to compare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 It was from B*ltema...! It's been OK previously, but I'll check it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 I have one too, never even thought of using it for checking the injection system on the Disco. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 12, 2008 Author Share Posted May 12, 2008 I've checked the battery in the Volvo with it and am getting similar values, so I can presume that the multimeter is knackered! I need the 110 for work so would ordering a new starter solenoid and ignition switch be sensible before I've sussed the problem definitely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJIbex Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 Do you have a battery isolator switch? I've had one of these give me issues of intermitant cutting out in the past; although my starter circuit was fine. The issue was I had a mate with a similar switch and we swapped keys without knowing. His key was not throwing my switch quite far enough to make proper contact and when hot 1 of the 2 circuits was intermitantly breaking. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 Do you have a battery isolator switch? I do, but it's not fitted yet, still sat in the shed After the ignition problems last time I thought I'd wait and see if it was sorted before adding other variables into the equation. Cheers, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 13, 2008 Author Share Posted May 13, 2008 Right, new multimeter and the readings this time are 12.5V (engine stopped) and 14.5V (engine running) so I suppose this is good to go? For the next part, don't be worried about telling me to suck eggs as I know not a lot about elecktrickery. To test the starter solenoid for current I need to attach the meter in circuit to it, whilst someone cranks the engine (is that right so far...)? I've tried this with the power cable coming from the fuse box but don't get a reading, ideas anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 What model year is your 110, and does it have the 2 button type key fob ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 It's 1996 with a no button fob, so I'd presumed no immobiliser .....good point I'll have a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 You'll have to test the thin cable on the starter to see if it gets any juice from the starter switch. I strongly suspect the cable to be white/red. After having installed my 200Tdi, my 110 sometimes refused to start. Had a short tow by an IH Scout outside the grocery shop once. How embarrasing... A new spade connector on the cable was the definite cure. As simple as that. BTW, you can call me if you feel the need to. My number is on the SLRK website... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 I am wondering if it is possible to change solenoid on certain Starters? I had a similar problem with my starter and this fellow I called and discussed the issue with in Derbyshire told me one could not change the Solenoid on the td5 99 mod 110... I bought a new starter and hav not regreted though.. Can the Solenoid on the 200tdi starter be changed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted May 15, 2008 Share Posted May 15, 2008 We got a TD5 starter repaired by a good auto electrician for the equivalent of £60. However the owner wanted a new one at about three times that, so we now have a nice spare one under the bench. With the 200/300Tdi starters there is not much difference between a new one and a recon one, though I have no idea where they are made. Most likely in Calcutta or Shanghai. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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