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Do I need Mudflaps?


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I have a 1988 110 CSW with an extra fuel tank behind the bodywork where the filler is. I was totally unaware it existed until it developed a leak the other day. Turns out it is probably due to a crack in the weld where the mudflap bolts on for the O/Side rear wheel. Do I put them back on once I've got the tank repaired?

I imagine this happened when i was green laning, so assume mudlaps are a bad idea in that situation, but not having had the vehicle long, would like to know what people think of mudflaps in general. I've never had flaps on any other car, so don't really consider them important.

Thanks.

Tony

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They are usefull, but some defenders (mainly 90s as the back ones are closer to the wheels) can run over the flaps when reversing off road and rip them off.

This generally happens when backing onto a bank or similar which pushes the flap close to the tyre.

They are not a requirement for the MOT as the bodywork provides the required spray supression.

I have always left them on, then when one falls or gets ripped off take the other one off to match.

Richard

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some defenders (mainly 90s as the back ones are closer to the wheels) can run over the flaps when reversing off road and rip them off.

Happens on 110s too. I've relocated mine to the rear cross member, as I mangled the brackets as well.

Rear mudflaps help in keeping the rear of the truck cleaner. Due to the shape of the truck, there's a big vortex which throws crud all over the back of the truck.

I reckon mudflaps reduce the spray throw into the vortex, or some such scientificy reason :lol:

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If you tow things on dirt roads they are a good idea, not just to stop stones shot-blasting your trailer or caravan, but the stones can bounce back and smash your back window.

Do, not can :)

I have them fitted for just that reason, though I am still pondering a quick release system to take them off when I want to go anywhere interesting. On a 90 it just busts the flap but on a 110SW it busts the alloy body side panel that the bracket goes onto so it needs modifying.

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though I am still pondering a quick release system to take them off

what about a bonnet pin kind of arrangement? or even a large bolt and repair washer, with a hole drilled in the end of the bolt for an over centre pin to fit through.

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You might get pulled in this area on a wet day. We know it has happened.

My flaps. Back and front.

img15809ob.th.jpg

My original rear set-up. I changed the flap this year when the boy racer one cracked

img6210bz7.th.jpg

In front of the rear wheel. Trying to protect the body crossmember.

dsc00024rz2.th.jpg

The new flaps.

img6203bq6.th.jpg

Front. Filling the arch to help protect the outrigger

img6204fb9.th.jpg

Front a view from behind.

The cod line has been replaced by two chains. One to hold the flap away from the wheel/tyre. The shorter piece to hook the flap up out of the way in really rough stuff and for reversing in the rough.

p.s.

The flaps are made from old 25litre oil drums.

mike

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Happens on 110s too. I've relocated mine to the rear cross member, as I mangled the brackets as well.

Rear mudflaps help in keeping the rear of the truck cleaner. Due to the shape of the truck, there's a big vortex which throws crud all over the back of the truck.

I reckon mudflaps reduce the spray throw into the vortex, or some such scientificy reason :lol:

That sounds like a good solution - have you got any pics of what it looks like?

With flaps in the original position, do they protect the fuel tank any more than mounted at the back?

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That sounds like a good solution - have you got any pics of what it looks like?

With flaps in the original position, do they protect the fuel tank any more than mounted at the back?

The original position, as mmgemini said, is better in that it protects the rear cross member from filling with mud.

Don't know that it does much for protecting the fuel tank.

Will post some pics later.

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What Jim says is very true, my Ifor Williams trailer on a wet day is plastered in crud and the goods also in the open topped trailer. The front lamps on the trailer keep getting the lenses broken with stones and Ifor charges about £11 per side, outrageous for a piece of clear plastic :(

However, mud flaps are a PITA when offroading and personnally I think they collect more crud which is difficult to clean after offroading so I have never bothered fitting them, when I have broken enough trailer lenses I might think differently :lol:

What about an easily removable skirt behind the rear crossmember, does the jury think that would work? lots of coaches seem to use them.

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What about an easily removable skirt behind the rear crossmember, does the jury think that would work? lots of coaches seem to use them.

People here (lots of gravel roads) often use an old length of heavy conveyor belt attached to the rear crossmember, which is something I have been thinking about. Others cover the back windows with thick cardboard/heavy bagging, or just replace the (broken) window with a bit of plywood when they find out a new Shogun back window costs 400 quid :lol:

I broke the rear window on my old Discovery the day I picked up my Sankey trailer from the cast sale, lesson learned the hard way :(

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So it looks like mudflaps get the thumbs up.

I personally like the idea of a curtain on the rear cross member (it will also mean i can remove the bracket from the second fuel tank, thus avoiding any more leaks!). I may try and knock something up with a quick release so i can take it off when not needed.

Thanks for all your replies.

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People here (lots of gravel roads) often use an old length of heavy conveyor belt attached to the rear crossmember, which is something I have been thinking about. <snip>

Pretty common in these parts, too, particularly for caravaner's.

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They are usefull, but some defenders (mainly 90s as the back ones are closer to the wheels) can run over the flaps when reversing off road and rip them off.

This generally happens when backing onto a bank or similar which pushes the flap close to the tyre.

They are not a requirement for the MOT as the bodywork provides the required spray supression.

I have always left them on, then when one falls or gets ripped off take the other one off to match.

Richard

the trick to stopping them being backed over is a length of very lightweight chain going from the bottom of the mudflap back up to the body or chassis. The mudflap can then flex back, but not forwards.

A lot of trucks and Semi's use this sytem here, too.

BTW, it's illegal in Oz not to have mudflaps fitted.

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I just cut a couple of small slits in each mudflap with a knife and i tie them up to the bumperettes using a couple of cable ties. When I get back on the road, I just slice through the cable ties.

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