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Ducelier or Lucas Distributor


MuddyWinny

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Ok, I’ll admit now that I have an early 90 fitted with a 2.25 petrol but I guessing that there’ll be more knowledge and help amongst Series owners.

The engine is of the later 5 bearing type and currently has a Ducelier distributor fitted. However, while changing the points due to poor running and lack of power I noticed that the dwell angle varies +- 5 degrees after the engine has been revved and returning to idle which I’m guessing is due to wear (especially as I know dirt has managed to find it’s way); this is something that it never used to do.

From looking at the Landrover manual the vacuum pipe is fitted with a device at the distributor end that is only shown with the Lucas distributor although this may simply be misleading.

The question is whether to replace the current distributor with another Ducelier or the Lucas one, whether it makes any difference which one is fitted or if there is a general preference?

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I had a Lightweight krypton tuned once and it had a Ducellier dizzy on it. The tuner couldn't accurately set the timing because it varied as much as 9-degrees. He said this is typical of Ducellier distributors. I replaced it with a Lucas one and it was noticeably better afterwards.

I fitted electronic ignition to it a while later and it was the best running 2.25 petrol I have ever seen.

Les.

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Not that I have ever fitted one but yes I believe you do. An electronic distributor earths the LT side of the coil electronically for the correct duration rather than it being done mechanically by points. However the body of the distributor still needs to be rotated to determine when this will happen and a spark produced.

Since there are no points 1) you don't have to set a gap to determine the dwell angle, and 2) there are no contacts to deteriorate with use.

If you don't mind me asking what mpg are you getting from a 2.5l? (I get 13 -15 mpg from my 2.25 at the moment but it isn't running well and I have Firestone SATs fitted)

MW

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The one I fitted went inside the dizzy cap. The points and condenser are removed and the black box is fitted where the points were. A different rotor arm is also fitted and a .5mm gap is set. Low tension coil wire that was previously connected to the condenser is connected to the black box, which has a second wire that is to earth.

You set the timing in the usual way by rotating the dizzy body.

Les.

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Not that I have ever fitted one but yes I believe you do. An electronic distributor earths the LT side of the coil electronically for the correct duration rather than it being done mechanically by points. However the body of the distributor still needs to be rotated to determine when this will happen and a spark produced.

Since there are no points 1) you don't have to set a gap to determine the dwell angle, and 2) there are no contacts to deteriorate with use.

If you don't mind me asking what mpg are you getting from a 2.5l? (I get 13 -15 mpg from my 2.25 at the moment but it isn't running well and I have Firestone SATs fitted)

MW

I probably get a bit more but not much. Never measured it too much but I've also recently changed my carb and seem to be getting better mpg from that but it's badly setup at the moment.

I've had an offer from someone on here to help set it up but I might get my mechanic cousin to have a look and spend some time on it

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I had a Lightweight krypton tuned once and it had a Ducellier dizzy on it. The tuner couldn't accurately set the timing because it varied as much as 9-degrees. He said this is typical of Ducellier distributors. I replaced it with a Lucas one and it was noticeably better afterwards.

I fitted electronic ignition to it a while later and it was the best running 2.25 petrol I have ever seen.

Les.

i have a series3 2.25 petrol that i am rebuilding.can anyone tell me why i can't get a spark?the white low tesion wire has power to it.the coil is brand new and the points look good too.can anybody help?

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Either the HT circuit is finding an easier way to earth than along the lead ,rotor arm to coil lead (inside cap), cracked dizzy cap, knackered coil lead, no engine earth, LT wires on the coil the wrong way round, wrong/busted coil.

Is the little earth strap inside the cap connected ok?

A last resort is to get an old cap, cut windows in it, and then get someone to turn the key. You can usually see what's happening with the spark. There should be some kind of cantact between the top of the rotor arm and the coil wire connecting - usually a spring loaded carbon rod, but sometimes a strip of copper. If either is missing, then the spark will not jump the gap.

Les.

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I fitted an electronic dizzy from ebay to my 2.25 90- made a world of difference, the main benefit as far as i saw it was that once i got it into a nice state of tune i should theoretically not have to change it.

I get 21mpg from mine on unleaded. However i do drive 99.99% of the time on motorways and only at 60mph. When i first got the thing it was giving about 17mpg.

Thats running BFG AT's, no roofrack or other items that might cause drag fitted (its a rag top).

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Years ago, a silly thing like that stopped me putting vacuum advance on a lightweight.... for a very long time....

Cheap, pattern parts seem to have an overly long spring, which is not fitted *just* right, will touch something it shouldn't....

Nowadays I love the plug'n'play nature of electronic ignition ;)

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