ThreePointFive Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 Hi all, I'm changing the rear shoes on my drum brakes as they are down to metal after being checked not so long ago (mud is suggested as likely cause). I've been reading the Haynes on doing it, and it makes a big fuss about asbestos hazard in the brake dust. How likely is it? I used to work at a Garage and not once did I see a technician use a dust mask when changing brakes. I would like to know how safe the job is or if there really is a hazard. Also, when do you know the drum of the brake is mullered? Mine has been thoroughly scored by the pads and is now shiney, does this mean it's time for some new ones? Cheers for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 most modern brake linings ceased using asbestos years ago, but brake dust in general isn't very healthy, I always wipe mine instead of brushing or blowing the dust away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblue110 Posted June 9, 2008 Share Posted June 9, 2008 as above, shouldnt really find asbestos lining, unless working on rarer old stuff, but any dust can be classed as a hazard and should be dealt with at least a little sense, as you've said often people dont bother with the correct ppe but thats just down to laziness/stupidity, i should know im 1 of them, but iv always sprayed drum dust with a brake cleaner then wiped it away, makes dust go 'heavy' so doesnt go air born. if the drums got heavy, deep scores then id change them, after all it'll reduce your brake efficiency as shoe is only acting on a % of the drum surface. andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tjolliffe Posted June 10, 2008 Share Posted June 10, 2008 Have you considerd swaping your axle and putting on a Disco/RRC axle instead that has disc brakes? I picked one up for my 90 for £60, would mean that you get around all the problems of brake dust and your shoes/drums wearing out quickly because of mud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted June 10, 2008 Author Share Posted June 10, 2008 Yeah it's on the to do list! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110WestCape Posted June 11, 2008 Share Posted June 11, 2008 A vacuum cleaner works well for dust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted June 12, 2008 Author Share Posted June 12, 2008 It's not worth a new topic so I'll ask here: One of the bolts on the bottom of the shoes holding the round plate on is either rounded out or stuck. What size are they? A 10mm spanner seems too big and 9mm is far too small. It may bwe that mine have just been abused by the last person to fit the brake shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted June 13, 2008 Author Share Posted June 13, 2008 No longer about the dust hazards but I might get a reprimand for starting two threads about brakes in a week... I have taken off the shoes on both sides and the shoes to the rear side of the car are both worn through to metal, while the front ones are much less worn. I've fitted new shoes but now the drums won't fit over them, the pistons on the wheel cylinders are in as far as they will go and I can't see any other form of adjustment to make on it... Under the seals of the cylinders some fluid was present, does this mean they are now beyond use? Any help appreciated as the car is unusable if I can't get this sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblue110 Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 do you have the adjusters wound all the way back, so the peg on the shoe which rides on the adjustor is against the flat?? for the price of the cylinders id say change them. you'll only find yourself having to buy new shoes again when they finally let go due to contamination. if i remember rightly the cylinders are sided, and cheaper isnt always better with the cylinders. work started geting a cheap cylinder and we had a series of failers on the plains. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 No longer about the dust hazards but I might get a reprimand for starting two threads about brakes in a week...I have taken off the shoes on both sides and the shoes to the rear side of the car are both worn through to metal, while the front ones are much less worn. I've fitted new shoes but now the drums won't fit over them, the pistons on the wheel cylinders are in as far as they will go and I can't see any other form of adjustment to make on it... Under the seals of the cylinders some fluid was present, does this mean they are now beyond use? Any help appreciated as the car is unusable if I can't get this sorted. Yes, if there is fluid under the dust seals then the cylinders are past their best and will eventually pour fluid all over you nice new shoes and then its back to square one again..............the cylinders are cheap, so its best to replace them .......... IIRC about £11 each.............when you change them use a brake pipe clamp on the rear hose (chassis to axle), then you only need bleed the rears.............if you don't have a clamp, then mole grips and a protection rag would do at a push........ As has been said, wind the adjusters in, centralize the shoes, then fit the drum......................first bleed the rear brakes.............. then jump on the brake pedal a few times to centralize the new shoes, then finally adjust them so that the shoes are just clear of (or very slightly touching) the drum............job done Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted June 13, 2008 Author Share Posted June 13, 2008 Pretty much sorted now, drums all back together and replaced the return springs just for good measure. Going to get the cylinders replaced at a later date, I don't have the equipment to do it here. One question, there's a peg on the shoe and one opposite on the back plate. The return spring wouldn't fit into the notch on the peg on the shoe, as it fouled the adjuster. At the moment it's hooked onto the peg but the other side of the adjuster, nearer the shoe itself. It seems secure, but will the slightly different angle or fact it's not fixed in one place on the peg be an issue? Not sure how to sort it out if it has to be on that notch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 I have just taken the 90 for the first run since I did the brakes and while it can stop very well now, the rear drums are getting very hot. I only covered about a mile yet the outside of the drums are too hot to touch. Refitting the new drums was a tight fit, they barely fitted over the shoes and so must be in contact with them constantly. There was no more adjustment in the adjuster or anywhere else that I could see, the pistons on the wheel cylinders were as far in as they'd go. Is there somewhere you can adjust the clearance other than the single adjuster on each back plate? Is it just a case of new shoes and new drums not being worn enough yet? Last thing I want is a failure or for them to get so hot they cause a blowout or fire. I've been put off doing anything brake related from now on, but I need to at least get this finished so answers urgently needed please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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