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Ive used the search engine and found information on how to cure propshaft angles after a lift.

The problem is im really confused as to which prop i need?? wide angle? double yoke?? double cardon??

It was only supposed to be a 2inch lift on pro comps and heavy duty springs, The rear is about right, But the front has gone closer to 4inches? If you look at my picture on the post you will see the its quite high (its a bad pic, sorry) Its had time to settle, As a result the front prop is at quite an angle, So could someone enlighten me as to what to buy out of all the ones i mentioned at the start, Money is an issue to an extent. :huh:

Also whats this business of removing the anti roll bar??

HOPE ALL ARE WELL!! :rolleyes:

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Double Cardan is the design that removes the vibrations for high angles. Wide angle yokes stop the UJ's from rubbing at wide angles of operation. Once you need to put a DC prop on ideally you want to also make sure it has wide angle yokes.

Don't put a Disco II DC prop on as it won't last and will cost you more in the long run.

Really you need to sort out your springs and reduce the lift on the front to level it out.

Anti roll bar can limit articulation off road, so most people take them off if they spend enough time off road and put up with more roll on road. With HD springs you've probably stiffened the ride enough not to notice lack of anti roll bars.

Cheers

Steve

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Ive used the search engine and found information on how to cure propshaft angles after a lift.

The problem is im really confused as to which prop i need?? wide angle? double yoke?? double cardon??

It was only supposed to be a 2inch lift on pro comps and heavy duty springs, The rear is about right, But the front has gone closer to 4inches? If you look at my picture on the post you will see the its quite high (its a bad pic, sorry) Its had time to settle, As a result the front prop is at quite an angle, So could someone enlighten me as to what to buy out of all the ones i mentioned at the start, Money is an issue to an extent. :huh:

Also whats this business of removing the anti roll bar??

HOPE ALL ARE WELL!! :rolleyes:

You could use GW props, these work great on his massive lift...

look at the pictures here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?act=post...f=9&t=27823

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Double Cardan is the design that removes the vibrations for high angles. Wide angle yokes stop the UJ's from rubbing at wide angles of operation. Once you need to put a DC prop on ideally you want to also make sure it has wide angle yokes.

Don't put a Disco II DC prop on as it won't last and will cost you more in the long run.

Really you need to sort out your springs and reduce the lift on the front to level it out.

Anti roll bar can limit articulation off road, so most people take them off if they spend enough time off road and put up with more roll on road. With HD springs you've probably stiffened the ride enough not to notice lack of anti roll bars.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks steve, So i need to combine a double cardon with wide angles yokes.

:ph34r: sorry about before steve, caught me on a real bad day... :ph34r:

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Yes, but a decent one is going to cost about 200 pounds. If you don't need such a high left a set of OEM springs to give you a 1" lift with the winch would set you back about 35 pounds a pair and then you wouldn't need the propshaft.

Cheers

Steve

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Yes, but a decent one is going to cost about 200 pounds. If you don't need such a high left a set of OEM springs to give you a 1" lift with the winch would set you back about 35 pounds a pair and then you wouldn't need the propshaft.

Cheers

Steve

Can i fit wide angle yokes to the standard propshaft steve??? or anybody? ( RALPH!)
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wide angle yokes could be fitted to a standard length prop but again, it'll cost as both [at the same end] will have to be changed, I'd try some different front springs first as 4 inches up at the front must affect the driving characteristics of your 90, it's better to have a max of 1 inch difference [lower at the front] for example my 110 rides on HD OME springs, the front sits at 35 inches from ground to outer edge of arch flare & the rear is at 36 inches, it drives well & still gets me everywhere off road & no special prop mods :D

as Steve says, drop the front so 90 is level or slightly nose down [about 1 inch] & see how it goes.

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wide angle yokes could be fitted to a standard length prop but again, it'll cost as both [at the same end] will have to be changed, I'd try some different front springs first as 4 inches up at the front must affect the driving characteristics of your 90, it's better to have a max of 1 inch difference [lower at the front] for example my 110 rides on HD OME springs, the front sits at 35 inches from ground to outer edge of arch flare & the rear is at 36 inches, it drives well & still gets me everywhere off road & no special prop mods :D

as Steve says, drop the front so 90 is level or slightly nose down [about 1 inch] & see how it goes.

Right ill cost the yolks up and also see if i can raise the back another inch, If its too much cost wise i will get lower springs :(:rolleyes:

Thanks for help. Tris

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200? or 300TDI?

if a 300 you can fit the TD5 Defender front prop this is wide angled already

the rear can be helped with a dremmel to give more clearance

200tdi, DOH!! typical lol. ralph said i could fit double yokes but i need two each end, are they the same, so just order 4??

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Before you do anything, what are bump stop clearances on the front now ?

i.e. when parked on a level bit of concrete, measure between the rubber bump stop (assuming stock bump rubber and not spaced down) and axle pad. If it's 115mm or under, you probably won't need a DC shaft.

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Before you do anything, what are bump stop clearances on the front now ?

i.e. when parked on a level bit of concrete, measure between the rubber bump stop (assuming stock bump rubber and not spaced down) and axle pad. If it's 115mm or under, you probably won't need a DC shaft.

Give me 2 minutes! i will get me tape

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Before you do anything, what are bump stop clearances on the front now ?

i.e. when parked on a level bit of concrete, measure between the rubber bump stop (assuming stock bump rubber and not spaced down) and axle pad. If it's 115mm or under, you probably won't need a DC shaft.

170mm roughly maybe 180 :( from inside rubber to inside

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I have a selection of used springs of various poundages and lengths that you are welcome to try if you want to bring the front down a bit when you bring it over to be sprayed.

At the back you can fit the rubber spring Isolators that are used on Discovery/Range Rovers, I think that one top and bottom gives approximately 1" lift although if it is dislocating at the rear then this might not be a viable option.

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I have a selection of used springs of various poundages and lengths that you are welcome to try if you want to bring the front down a bit when you bring it over to be sprayed.

At the back you can fit the rubber spring Isolators that are used on Discovery/Range Rovers, I think that one top and bottom gives approximately 1" lift although if it is dislocating at the rear then this might not be a viable option.

Thanks for that, Im having a play with the back today, I might try and find some more info on those isolaters you mentioned.I got some dislocation cones on there way lol

have you heard off mike recently???

:rolleyes:

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have a read here..

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=12063

This is a RR rubber isolator..

DSC09134.jpg

An easier way to measure suspension height over stock is between top spring mount and bottom. This should be 260mm on a standard 90 so you can work out your lift.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks steve, Thats real useful to me as im not sure what lift i have other than its a lot more than 2inches

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