jds Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 hi all, i am in the process of rebuilding my 4.0l 1999 v8 and i have found a second hand block is there any way of checking it? i am aware that they tend to crack if overheated so would like to make sure all is well before fitting it as i have spent alot £ on the heads new everything!!! any advice welcome cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted June 21, 2008 Share Posted June 21, 2008 Yes,virtually any decent engine reconditioners will pressure test it for you.But if you are willing to go to all the trouble to build an engine like that with the known issues re cracking/loose liners,I would either have stepped liners fitted to it or just buy a short block from Turner engineering with them already fitted. Its alot of work and utterly frustrating if you end up with cooling issues 6 months down the line.When its finished and running I would also advise pressurizing the cooling system cold to about 12psi and leave it for several hours.Any very tiny leaks on coolant hoses will then show up,this is particularly important around any extra hoses for an LPG vaporiser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jds Posted June 23, 2008 Author Share Posted June 23, 2008 ok, in the end i have replaced everything in the block too and i am about to put it all back together, but which headgaskets do i go for the standard tin or the composite? what is the difference between them? and which are better. can you guys recommend any thing that should be done when putting it back together? should i buy new head bolts? etc any help greatly accepted as i dont want to have to take it apart again. i have already got new thermostat, oil pump, water pump should i change anything else. cheers john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 It is often difficult to tell if the block is OK or not ................... decent pressure testing costs money and that money would be better spent on top hat liners, which will make your block bullet proof............. Use composite gaskets......... when you say it is a 4L, do you mean its a 3.9L or a 4L ? as there is a distinct difference.............. the 4L being a cross bolted later block would have had composite gaskets as standard and only 2 rows of head bolts. 3 row 3.9L composite gaskets are available from Real Steel...................... OEM gaskets will only be 2 row................ My build is in the tech archive http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=whats+the+BHP I took a chance on an 'unknown' engine but knew the risks, so I was prepared to strip it a second time to fix the cracked block syndrome. You should ideally replace the head bolts with ARP studs and renew all the rocker gear................ Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 From what I've read, I wouldn't bother with the extra row of head bolts as they supposedly tilt the head and lead to head gasket failure, hence why they were deleted on later blocks. Use composite gaskets, they're nicerer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted June 23, 2008 Share Posted June 23, 2008 Agreed ................. yes, I should have mentioned .................. just tighten the outer row to 15ft/lbs (i.e. use the bolsts as hole fillers)......... on some engine options they are used to secure ancillary brackets............... The outer row when tightened down to factory torque cause the head to tilt and the head gasket slightly blows into the valley............. eventually the gaskjet gives up altogether (after anything from 10K - 30K miles)............ but all the combustion gases that have gone into the valley area cause havoc with the oil contamination. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jds Posted June 27, 2008 Author Share Posted June 27, 2008 its a later cross bolted engine so only 2 rows of bolts, what are arp studs?? i have now replaced pistons, cam bearings, big ends, main bearing, rods,liners, valve seals, valves, is there anything else that should be done?? do i need new head bolts? john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldShep56 Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 My build is in the tech archive http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...l=whats+the+BHPIan I have just read this post, BBC ........... what patience you must have and what a wonderful post describing the said work. Thank you for the time and effort you put into the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 ........what are arp studs??........ Apologies for 'sucking egg' syndrome but others may not know. Using a stud is very much better for torquing down the head than using bolts. Engine blocks are usually cast iron or ali, neither take a thread very well which means you have to use a coarse thread for head bolts etc. A stud will have the coarse thread on one end and a fine thread on the other. The stud is fitted to the block with a thread lock/sealant and should then become a permanent feature of the block. When the head and gasket are fitted the fine threaded nut allows the load on the cylinder head (being applied by the torque on the nut) to be much finer and evenly applied. There are many suppliers of studs but ARP are the mutts nuts. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jds Posted June 28, 2008 Author Share Posted June 28, 2008 So just to be clear the studs are put in the block and sealed in to become permanent, then put on the gaskets and heads and only a nut to hold it??? is this safe? any idea where i can buy them or get prices? john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Studs are a far stronger fixing and ARP even stronger than that. Have a search around to get the best price. Rimmer do them as a set of studs, washers and nuts. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/cgi-bin/rimmer.../v8engine/heads Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Real Steel sell them, £79 for the set for the cross-bolted blocks if memory serves. Much nicer and much stronger than standard. Look at it this way - with standard you're winding a steel bolt into an ali casting under tension, so if it goes wrong, sticks, etc. you can f**ck the block up, end up with a snapped bolt in the block, etc. With studs, you wind the stud in with no stress (they have a small allen key head on the top of the stud to put them in with), then you stick the gasket & head on and then you're winding a hardened steel nut onto a hardened steel stud = much nicer, much stronger, less likely to f**k up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jds Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 I am about to start putting it all back together but it seems to me that i am gonna have a problem getting to the bolts on the bell housing. i am using the studs rater than head bolts do you guys think i should put the heads back on while the engine is out or put in the block first and then build it up in the car? i would like to build it back in the car because the bellhousing bolt are hard to get to with the heads on. but will there be enough space to put the heads on and clear the studs? any help welcomed. john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Build the engine out of the car,put it in and do the bell housing bolts before putting the engine mounts in - this allows you to lower the front of the engine down enough to give good clearance to get the bolts in.Torquing the heads is not very easy when the engine is in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vougese39 Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 if you are fitting the composite gaskets which heads are you fitting the original 4.0 heads with the small combustion chambers or the old type with large chambers fitting the comp to the old type heads will lower the comp ration and tin to the latter type will increase the comp ratio so gives you a few iother opyons as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jds Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 i am fitting composite gaskets but not sure what heads they are the ones that were on the car it is a 1999. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jds Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 also the crank sensor was welded to the block, does this have to be re welded as i had to break the weld to get it off. i have been looking for a new thermostat and have found several different ones all with different temps, which would be better higher or lower temp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jds Posted July 10, 2008 Author Share Posted July 10, 2008 i will be putting the engine back in tommorow, what antifreeze and what mixture should i use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 i will be putting the engine back in tommorow, what antifreeze and what mixture should i use? Get it running on plain water first, you are bound to have a water leak of some sort, especially as you don't know if the engine is any good or not... otherwise you end up trying to catch £15 worth of antifreeze in a bucket which is blatantly too small Once you are happy with the engine, then go for the antifreeze, I normally go approximately 50:50, and use anything that looks OK from the local motor factors, there's not a whole lot between them all TBH, some have a better aroma, and some a better flavour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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