LEAFERS RULE!!! Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 After much stressing over what to do about weak series front axle, i have bit the bullit and bought a set of toyota 80 series axles. This means discs all round,locking diffs front and rear, and very large strong half shafts to take the pains of 35 inch tyres!(poss 37inch) These are going to be mounted spring over(boo! hiss! i hear you cry) to raise ground clearance and aid axle travel obviously taking into account stability, spring wrap, prop angles etc i realise this isnt going to be the easiest of things to do, getting the right balance of clearance and stability is the main priority and having read a few veiws on the subject some people do think it quite crazy to do such a thing. Stability will be aided as the width of the axles is more than a coil spring rover axle this coupled with the correct offset wheel and large tyres of a width of over 12.5 inches combined with the correct height spring mounts/shackles should give me more axle travel with only a bit more lift than i am running now. This also gets rid of the springs hanging under the axle, u bolts and plates will be at the top of the axle out of harms way giving a smoother axle bottom so as not to snag up on rocks stumps or hidden nasties that have slowed progress in the past. Hope this is of some intrest to you all updates will be slow and far between as it isnt going to be rushed my aim is to get it right and hopefully show up some of the coil spring fraternity once out and about and show that the original leaf springs are more than up to keeping up in the rough stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 hopefully show up some of the coil spring fraternity once out and about and show that the original leaf springs are more than up to keeping up in the rough stuff. WORD!! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfredenewman Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 hopefully show up some of the coil spring fraternity once out and about and show that the original leaf springs are more than up to keeping up in the rough stuff. dream on WORD!! B) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jericho Posted July 9, 2008 Share Posted July 9, 2008 Good for you - go SOA. B) But you must change the front springs for longer ones. looking forward to photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plasticbadger Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Great thinking Leafers - the yanks love leaf sprung axle swaps and leaf over. In fact I have a very interesting article in an old copy of Petersens comparing a leaf over and a lifted Jeep CJ and the're only complaint was that the leaf over ended up more expensive in the long run than the lift, but when there's no bolt on kit available that's not exactly a concern! You couldn't really draw a line between the two system in terms of performance, stability etc. Besides the LC axles are about a foot wider than the series ones, so it's not about to fall over Keep us updated, because I think there's some other people on here gearing up for some Toyota based projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAFERS RULE!!! Posted July 10, 2008 Author Share Posted July 10, 2008 Good for you - go SOA. B) But you must change the front springs for longer ones.looking forward to photos. Thinking about hilux front springs they are longer, flatter when sat normally and also if i get a hilux front axle it already has the mounts for leafs which are exactly the same width as the landrover then i can put the locking diff in the axle and it will bolt straight on (obviously with a bit more modification) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPR Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 Toy SOA is an excellent idea and if done well will give you high performance while maintaining good series looks. I would suggest using Series rear parabolics - probably three leaf - on the fronts but perhaps Hi-lux springs will work well. You are going to have a couple of other issues that you may not have yet considered. - You will likely need to fabricate a drop pitman arm as your steering rod will be at a sharper angle SOA. If you are planning on 35" + tyres, you will also want to take the opportunity to go PAS as well. - You are going to have a problem with your front propshaft binding on the crossmember. At a minimum, you will need to notch the crossmember, but since you are going to need new propshafts as well (you will have binding issues at the T-case, and they will likely be substantially out of phase, along with the fact that you will need longer slip joints), take the opportnity to get a narrow diameter front shaft which will help with this. I always recommend the Propshaft Clininc in Bradford. Once you have the set up done, give them the t-case flange to pinion flange distance and then tell them you want wide yolks, narrow diameter front, full length slip joint etc. They are very knowledgeable. You still may need check straps to stop separation of the rear prop. - It would be best if you adjusted the spring perches on the axles so that you can adjust the pinion up a bit (between 4 and 6 degrees?) and mitigate the impact on castor. - Extended brake lines. - You mention wheel offset, so you may have already considered this. I can't recall how much wider the Toy axles are, but you don't want to exagerate the effect with additional wheel offset. In fact, you may want negative offset. Then you wonta have to have enormous wheel arch extensions that ruin the character of the truck. This is a great project. You may find some helpful advice here: PBB Series SOA thread and here's something to shoot for: A rather nice SOA that belonged (may still?) to Timm Cooper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magic Dr.Shoon Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 and here's something to shoot for: Damn that looks good!!! Forgive my ignorance, but what does SOA stand for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill van snorkle Posted July 11, 2008 Share Posted July 11, 2008 One point I would add to what Richard has already, in case you are tempted to use Toyota propshafts is that Toyota propshaft slipjoints are well made and last forever, but they hydraulically lock when compressed, so if after your suspension conversion your axle tends to move rearwards when the suspension is compressed, a Toyota slipjoint will give your engine/ transmission mountings, and transfercase housing a very hard time. Use a Hardy Spicer slip joint. Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAFERS RULE!!! Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 One point I would add to what Richard has already, in case you are tempted to use Toyota propshafts is that Toyota propshaft slipjoints are well made and last forever, but they hydraulically lock when compressed, so if after your suspension conversion your axle tends to move rearwards when the suspension is compressed, a Toyota slipjoint will give your engine/ transmission mountings, and transfercase housing a very hard time. Use a Hardy Spicer slip joint.Bill. Fortunatley the toyota flanges are a full circle, will machine the centre to take a land rover prop flange then just re-drill the holes at 45 degrees to the old bolt holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAFERS RULE!!! Posted July 11, 2008 Author Share Posted July 11, 2008 Toy SOA is an excellent idea and if done well will give you high performance while maintaining good series looks. I would suggest using Series rear parabolics - probably three leaf - on the fronts but perhaps Hi-lux springs will work well. You are going to have a couple of other issues that you may not have yet considered. - You will likely need to fabricate a drop pitman arm as your steering rod will be at a sharper angle SOA. If you are planning on 35" + tyres, you will also want to take the opportunity to go PAS as well. - You are going to have a problem with your front propshaft binding on the crossmember. At a minimum, you will need to notch the crossmember, but since you are going to need new propshafts as well (you will have binding issues at the T-case, and they will likely be substantially out of phase, along with the fact that you will need longer slip joints), take the opportnity to get a narrow diameter front shaft which will help with this. I always recommend the Propshaft Clininc in Bradford. Once you have the set up done, give them the t-case flange to pinion flange distance and then tell them you want wide yolks, narrow diameter front, full length slip joint etc. They are very knowledgeable. You still may need check straps to stop separation of the rear prop. - It would be best if you adjusted the spring perches on the axles so that you can adjust the pinion up a bit (between 4 and 6 degrees?) and mitigate the impact on castor. - Extended brake lines. - You mention wheel offset, so you may have already considered this. I can't recall how much wider the Toy axles are, but you don't want to exagerate the effect with additional wheel offset. In fact, you may want negative offset. Then you wonta have to have enormous wheel arch extensions that ruin the character of the truck. This is a great project. You may find some helpful advice here: PBB Series SOA thread and here's something to shoot for: A rather nice SOA that belonged (may still?) to Timm Cooper. The x member is notched already as i have longer shackles plus the longer one ton/military dumb irons welded on this gave me enough room to fit the 35 inch tyres this meant the prop caught at hard articulation (if you can call the front end of a series flexible!!). This is a 1959 series 2 so as far as the wings go i can fabricate up some neat wings/rubbing bars that shouldnt look too "in your face" while the head lights in grill still keep the old rover looking original(not that its a concours winner at the moment any way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAFERS RULE!!! Posted September 9, 2008 Author Share Posted September 9, 2008 Hi all not a lot of progress on the axle swap front, work etc has got in the way have got a question for somebody with toyota knowledge i was wondering if the hi lux axle case is the same as the 80 series ie would it take the 80 series steering gear? I only ask as the hi lux axle being spring over is a straight bolt on at the spring mounts for a series land rover and with me wanting the free wheel hubs that are mostly standard it seems an easier option to fit the locker to the axle and the steering gear as the hi lux steering has a wierd set up.Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted September 9, 2008 Share Posted September 9, 2008 Forgive my ignorance, but what does SOA stand for? Spring Over Axle - normally the axle sits on top of the spring, and soa conversion gives a lift by fitting the sping under the axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted September 10, 2008 Share Posted September 10, 2008 Hi all not a lot of progress on the axle swap front, work etc has got in the way have got a question for somebody with toyota knowledge i was wondering if the hi lux axle case is the same as the 80 series ie would it take the 80 series steering gear? I only ask as the hi lux axle being spring over is a straight bolt on at the spring mounts for a series land rover and with me wanting the free wheel hubs that are mostly standard it seems an easier option to fit the locker to the axle and the steering gear as the hi lux steering has a wierd set up.Any thoughts greatly appreciated. no they are a different axle. also, if you are going with a hilux axle with free wheeling hubs for ease of fitment (and it does sound easy with the perches etc already in place) - why not just weld the front diff instead of trying to graft in an 80 yota locker? on road with the hubs disengaged, drives like normal in rwd. offroad you engage the hubs and bingo - difflocked front axle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Jones Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 There are some fantastic projects in this site, really imaginative and a range of engineering approaches too!! I love all this sort of stuff. I do like the retro thing and using old tech such as leaf springs to take on the Coilers off road. RPR, that is some fantastic axle articulation. It inspires me, I really have to get some more space and do an offroader too but most likely at a later date though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtremeMarineInc Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Leafers; Check out this thread for some ideas and good pictures. http://www.floridalandroverclub.com/forums...mp;pkBBid=18012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAFERS RULE!!! Posted September 16, 2008 Author Share Posted September 16, 2008 Thanks for the thread info, its good to see another persons ideas on this. Really like the high steer set up will have to look into getting one shipped over as its most probably easier than trying to get it fabbed up over here. Im on with the body work at the moment made and fitted a half hard top just on with measuring and fabbing up a new rear x member (tin worm has had its fill here) to take a rear winch etc will look like a series rear to stay "retro" the axles are getting the old gas axe treatment to get rid of the varios coil spring brackets etc then the old axles will get pulled out and the toys will be placed under the old girl ready for winter(if all goes to plan Ha Ha) taking lots of piccies etc as i go will have to get my backside into gear and do a proper detailed post.Good luck with the retro project should be a good un! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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