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Clutch master cylinder replacement - progress


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Well finally around to job 128 or is it more now? My first Haynes 4 spanner job but thanks to Les's wonderful guide (albeit for a 1996 300Tdi) I am making good progress. The kit is now all removed - in pouring rain. Clearly there had been some earlier problem which PO had tried to bodge with silicone and it perhaps lasted a year.

I scrubbed down the whole pedal box with swarfega and then used the pressure hose on it. Much of the paint had long vanished - so suspect longer term leakage of hydraulic fluid that I was aware of. Now it is all clean and dry I have rubbed it down a bit and put a coat of red oxide on the box prior to some hammerite. It is not in a high risk area (assuming I get all the hydraulic fluid sealed in properly) so hopefully this will mean I don't have to re-do in a couple of years due to the pedal box rusting to nothing.

I will have paint dry by tomorrow so will try and reassemble then - the weather is meant to be better too.

If tomorrow goes as well as today I will be well chuffed!

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Just remember how you did it. Because you'll be doing it again soon :(

I'm an innocent; can you explain why? I fitted a new Lucas cylinder rather than trying to overhaul the old one.

In terms of the procedure I found it easier than anticipated. Initial reaction is that my driving technique has clearly adapted to accommodate the leaky clutch system since it is now all a bit clunky. Is there some further adjustment I need to make?

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I'm an innocent; can you explain why? I fitted a new Lucas cylinder rather than trying to overhaul the old one.

In terms of the procedure I found it easier than anticipated. Initial reaction is that my driving technique has clearly adapted to accommodate the leaky clutch system since it is now all a bit clunky. Is there some further adjustment I need to make?

Alas even genuine cylinders are not known for their longevitiy.

The good news is that you will find it a bit easier the second time around! :P

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We have our old master cylinders resleeved with stainless steel and never fit new ones any more, whether genuine Girling or not. We do use genuine AP/Lockheed seals though. Unfortunately there is something wrong with the angle of the cylinder so that it wears oval - never used to happen with the same cylinder in a Series. The problem is worse with the TD5 because of the high pedal pressure needed.

Even the s/s cylinders sometimes don't last more than about a year - there is no answer to it.

The swearing gets less the second and third time around :)

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Beastie, Give the clutch a couple of days to settle down before doing any more to it, you should find that it'll improve.

Jim,

Would a TD5 pedal assy be ok with an LT77. There's one on my replacement bulkhead but if it's not suitable I'll swap it for my 300 one before the bulkhead goes on ?

Mo

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The 300Tdi pedal has an 'over centre' action which cuts down on the push required (compared to earlier pedals) I reckon the TD5 pedal assembly is the same, the extra effort required is due to the design of the clutch itself. I don't have Microcat at home so I can't tell if the part nos change. You should be able to feel the over centre action with the pedal disconnected, ie the pedal will go to the floor and stay there, held by the spring.

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As above, if you want it to last find a brake place that does resleeving in stainless steel. This is often done with Classic cars where you can't buy new bits. Also the racing guys use them. You can fit a seal kit, but I would advise using genuine or OEM seals, Britpart stuff will last a mere week or two. My brake specialist says the cheap kits use the wrong type of rubber.

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MO, Yes you can fit the 300Tdi or Td5 pedal assembly. it's far easier to use.

Ralph,

Sorry mate, you misunderstood. The bulkhead already has a TD5 pedal on it :) Jim said about high pressure so I just wanted to be sure the TD5 would be OK with my slave, however I now think Jim was referring to pedal pressure rather than hydraulic :lol:

Mo

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May I ask what's wrong with overhauling a master or slave cylinder? A seal kit costs 20 times less than a cylinder so I always give it a shot when a cylinder first fails. If it fails again within a year, I just bin it.

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Thanks guys

Everything now settled down very nicely.

As far as life expectancy goes what can I sort of expect from a new master cylinder?

As far as overhaul vs replacement for what it is worth my thinking was it takes a fair bit of time to get it in and out, and it takes as long whether replacing or overhauling. In terms of cash cost vs time cost it seemed to make more sense to replace.

Thanks for all the pointers and particularly to Les for the technical archive :P

Best wishes

Malcy

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As far as life expectancy goes what can I sort of expect from a new master cylinder?

As far as overhaul vs replacement for what it is worth my thinking was it takes a fair bit of time to get it in and out, and it takes as long whether replacing or overhauling. In terms of cash cost vs time cost it seemed to make more sense to replace.

How long is a piece of string? I reckon a year, and you may be lucky. If you use your Landy every day it will last longer, I reckon. Seals don't seem to like just sitting there.

I agree that it is a waste of time, though cheap, to replace the seals every 3 months or so unless you love doing the job. I haven't met anyone yet who actually likes doing it. Bondage and SM fans excepted :ph34r:

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Ralph,

Sorry mate, you misunderstood. The bulkhead already has a TD5 pedal on it :) Jim said about high pressure so I just wanted to be sure the TD5 would be OK with my slave, however I now think Jim was referring to pedal pressure rather than hydraulic :lol:

Mo

Ok, can't see that the cylinder size is much different, so I'd reckon it would be fine.

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