Skanny Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 HI Guys, Im looking at making an engine test bed setup for the 200 tdi and 300 tdi engines. All i want to do is to be able to plonk an engine on the bench and connect up a few wires and pipes and make a few sparks and away she runs. Reason im asking is that i run a disco breakers yard and we dont only take engines out to order we break all the time so i always have engines ready to go on a pallet if someone is in need of one FAST. i also get a lot of people who are reluctant to buy an engine they have not heard running - i can understand why! So i want an easy way of dropping one of my palletised engines ont oa bench and hooking up and starting it up for the customer so they can see for themselves its a runner. So anyone know what i will need in order to do this? Here is my non exhaustive list! Engine with starter, alternator, turbo and wiring for such. Ignition barrel Battery Fuel intercooler radiator header tank What electrical itema m i going to need? Does the 300 need any electrical bits to do with the EGR unit etc to make it run? Thanks Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 you don't need the intercooler to run it just a pipe bend to connect the turbo to the inlet manifold nor the EGR wiring just the stop solenoid connection water ideally a large container rather than a rad/plumbing (like banger racers run) in place of a rad that could easily be damaged the volume won't heat up enough to require a rad the rest you've mentioned, after all it is just to get it running not a dyno where it would be running for a fair while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 For this sort of demonstration set-up I'd suggest a bit more; the purpose of the exercise is to convince the Customer they are making a wise purchase, the more convinced they are the more they will spend. I'd like an oil pressure gauge, a boost gauge, and an ammeter wired to show alternator output (rather than the standard 'is the system balanced / how much is the battery charging / discharging?'. The fact that the ammeter is reading proves the voltage, and as said, the water temperature is probably immaterial. BTW, the boost gauge fitment doesn't imply an intercooler, although you might have to rig a mechanical hand to grab the linkage from the actuator to stop the bypass opening, otherwise you aren't going to get a significant amount of boost without a load on the engine. The ammeter output can be charging the battery, but you can add a load by adding as many headlight bulbs / units as you can be bothered to rig up. I appreciate this is building 'extra complication' into the engine stand, but the build effort is only there once, whereas the payback benefit is on every engine. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiWhite Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 As a customer, I'd be more impressed with a more complex test rig - it should give the impression you are professional about what you are doing. If it were me I'd have a properly setup rad circuit and intercooler, battery system etc. Then have as many gauges as you like - the boost guage won't do anything without a load. Have a little 'dashboard' with the guages - why not have an ignition barrel with a Landy key for a bit of fun? I'd also have a proper throttle lever instead of a poke-the-injector-pump system. A proper exhaust system will make the engine sound healthier as well. All this would be quite some work but it might pursuade customers that you aren't cowboys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 Sounds good but all your meager profits will disappear on the test bed you'll be taking the engine from a vehicle the spend as long reinstalling it Why not just video the engine running insitu before removal as a file you can email people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 19, 2008 Share Posted September 19, 2008 I'd go with what Tony said - 12V into the stop solenoid to make it run, power to the starter and a water tank for cooling. Our farm has an old Lister shearing engine that uses a domestic hot water cylinder for its "radiator" - will run all day with this and the water is just nice bath temperature by the end of the day after shearing the best part of 1000 sheep If I am buying an engine TBH I am not that worried about whether the alternator works properly, would be more interested in hearing the oily bits working. Oil pressure gauge would probably be a good thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 If you used an auto box in Drive with the "props" locked then you'd be able to show the engine under load and demonstrate running under boost, no black smoke, no head gasket issues (pressurising under load) etc. Of course, this could mean that you have to write off engines which you'd previously have sold. Depends what value you place on reputation and repeat custom. (I'll point out that I've bought bits off Skanny with very good service). If you're smart you could use the cooling water to heat your office too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skanny Posted September 26, 2008 Author Share Posted September 26, 2008 If you used an auto box in Drive with the "props" locked then you'd be able to show the engine under load and demonstrate running under boost, no black smoke, no head gasket issues (pressurising under load) etc. Of course, this could mean that you have to write off engines which you'd previously have sold. Depends what value you place on reputation and repeat custom. (I'll point out that I've bought bits off Skanny with very good service).If you're smart you could use the cooling water to heat your office too... All good suggestions guys. I just need to find the time to make the damn thing in beteen breaking and posting bits out! Running them under load is not 'so' much of an issue as we drive what we can before we take it out othe vehicle to check under load etc etc. Im just after a simple way of sheading potential customers traditional views of breakers yards, being that you buy something and hedge your bets as to whether it will work or not! Can anyone tell me which wire is required for the +12v for the stop solonoid? And does +12v make it stop or make it start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted September 27, 2008 Share Posted September 27, 2008 Don't know which wire, but you need +12V at the stop solenoid for the vehicle to run. Cut the wire, stop the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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