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200 TDi not turning off


Juz

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I'd first make sure that the solenoid doesn't actually have 12v on it when you're expecting it to stop.

The simplest test would be to pull the wire off.

And if working correctly, the engine should cut out?

(That's madness, if that wire came off whilst at 70mph on the worwar the engine would just stop - that's a bad day!)

Cheers, I'll try that - although I checked with a multimeter that I have 12v with ignition on and 0v with it off - guess it's the same thing.

Juz

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if working correctly, the engine should of course stop on the key

if you turn off at the key and remove the key, then remove the solenoid wire and the engine stil fails to stop, then the solenoid is jammed.

if pulling the wire off the solenoid stops the engine where the key has failed, the somehow you have an electrical issue and 12v still at the solenoid

I would expect it to still not stop and it be a sticking solenoid tbh. unless youve been messing with the wiring in that circuit/area recently :)

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Guest diesel_jim
How would that be happening? How would I check?

Juz

Because it would be revving flat out on its own, getting faster and faster (as there'll be no mechanical govenor working, as it does inside the pump) and eventually the the pistons/conrods/crank would make a break for freedom (through the block :( )

If it runs without 12v at the solenoid the chances are the cam ring is breaking up inside the pump,the resulting swarf is attracted to the magnetism of the solenoid and jams it.Replacement pump time.

Or just a re-con by a competent FIP workshop.

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Because it would be revving flat out on its own, getting faster and faster (as there'll be no mechanical govenor working, as it does inside the pump) and eventually the the pistons/conrods/crank would make a break for freedom (through the block :( )

i saw this happen to a tractor a couple of years ago, was very interesting to watch but seems as it was our tractor it wasnt funny...

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If it runs without 12v at the solenoid the chances are the cam ring is breaking up inside the pump,the resulting swarf is attracted to the magnetism of the solenoid and jams it.Replacement pump time.

not strictly true, the cam ring & roller can be replaced with the later 300Tdi parts that seem to be more resistant to breaking up, my current injection pump has been rebuilt with these later parts & is running fine.

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I worked on a rangi once that was doing the same thing. when you turned the key of it kept goining untill you flased the head lights then it stoped.

It turned out to be the alternator was bleeding just enough juce through the warning light into the ignition system to keep the solenoid open.

My cure for this at the time I thing was to put a grounding resistor of a couple of hundred Ohms across the solenoid to pull the voltage down when the key is off,

Mark

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