muddy Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 Basicly you start at the the air filter end of the turbo pipe and blank that off, the engine should stall quickly with a shudder. Then work your way backwards trying to stall the engine at everyjoint in the pipework, if the engine doesnt stall you know the leak is in the section you have just blanked off if your with me? Dont forget the drain plug/dum valve on the side of the airbox, a tdi on tickover will quite happily run through this without too much struggle. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 12, 2008 Share Posted October 12, 2008 Thanks Will, that is a really good idea. I just siliconed up the joints and then tested it as a oner. Testing each section makes much more sense. I will give it a go in the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted October 13, 2008 Author Share Posted October 13, 2008 Well its on now but the ribber gasket isn't in as I'm waiting for my rivnut gun to turn up so I can redo the rivnuts. Hopefully by tomorrow night it will all be in place. Had to take the heater out in the end but it was worth it to get the job done properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Well I had the whole thing out today and tested each section. Everything was air tight until I got to the box section each side of the wing. This is the point that is letting the system down and o matter how much silicone i used I could not make it air tight. This is a real weak link and placed the lowest and worst place possible as the corner that it is tucked up inside acts as a funnel for any water splashing about! As my cousin has already pointed out this section with endless piping with several joints needs replacing with a single continuous piece of exhaust pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Everything was air tight until I got to the box section each side of the wing. This is the point that is letting the system down and o matter how much silicone i used I could not make it air tight. It is a long time since I fiddled with a 200Tdi, but IIRC there is another drain gland there just like the one on the bottom of the air filter can. IIRC I poured silicone into mine to seal it up. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 It is a long time since I fiddled with a 200Tdi, but IIRC there is another drain gland there just like the one on the bottom of the air filter can. IIRC I poured silicone into mine to seal it up.Chris I never noticed that Chris, but will have a look tomorrow. Thanks, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Looking back, part number 5 in Ralph's drawing here. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Thanks Chris, Does that dump valve sit under part 3 or 4 in the diagram? If it is part 4 then I'm confused as this part sits flush with the body of the vehicle. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Goes in the bottom of part 4. I sealed mine, no need for it in my opinion. In regards to the riv-nuts, I just used normal nuts and washers while I had the heater out on mine, couldn't be bothered to order a tool online and wait for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 I got the rivnut tool. Its actually a very nice way to do it, i used nuts and bots at first though. If that drain hole is old they tend to get brittle open up. I just filled mine with silicon. A good way to do the whole thing is use a gutter sealant which is fibrous and never dries but does not break down like normal silicon, then cover than seal with normal silicon to get a dry seal. This means that when the normal silicon breaks down you still have a seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Yes, always test your snorkel. Put a plastic bag over the head. The engine should die and the suction should be held on the bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Well, I found the drain plug and yes, it is wide open. Tried to fill it with silicone without success as it is a bit round a corner. Off to town this morning to buy a bit of tubing to finish off the job! Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Hi, Still not got round to siliconing that drain plug. However, thanks for all the advice and helping me find the location of the problem. The whole situation occurred on a photo shoot with Land Rover owner International magazine. As there were several cameras around at the time of the incident you can see the wading shots that led to the water ingress here. I also added a link into the same article to this forum in recognition of all your help! Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Not all that deep really, is the inner wheelarch liner and spat all intact and correctly fitted? I am given to understand the a squash ball fits rather snugly in those rubber drains. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 At least its in the right colour Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 I don't think I would get a squash ball in there now as I have slapped silicone everywhere! Unfortunately not much of it went down the hole. The LR may not be red for much longer. I met a guy in the village who specialises in body repairs and resprays. I have been thinking about a respray at the end of the season and was always put off by cost. However, this guy spent two hours cutting a rusty section out of the bulkhead, welded a new piece in, resprayed the weld and reattached the snorkel. 90 minutes work and he charged me £3! I was thinking of asking him to modify the snorkel too and fit a continuous pipe section through to the airbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110WestCape Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Not intended to hi-jack this thread, same topic though ....... would it not be a problem if water finds it's way down the snorkel when the drain is blocked .... rainy conditions or during a wash etc. Is there perhaps a suitable one way valve that could keep the drain operating properly. Some people turn the top "bug catcher" to the rear ..... would that not reduce air intake ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 It's designed so that any water entering the snorkel top from rain etc is expelled out the sides. Apparently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul64 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Not intended to hi-jack this thread, same topic though ....... would it not be a problem if water finds it's way down the snorkel when the drain is blocked .... rainy conditions or during a wash etc. Is there perhaps a suitable one way valve that could keep the drain operating properly. Some people turn the top "bug catcher" to the rear ..... would that not reduce air intake ? The problem with the drain plug being at the lowest point of the system is that it sucks water as not functioning properly. If there was an alternative to blocking it completely with a one way valve, that would be ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 During snow or in sandy conditions then turn it backwards. Otherwise if you're running the car then most the water will probably evaporate before the filter or in the filter. The Safari Snorkel is supposed to siphon most of the water out the air and down those slits in the side of the scoop. Mine was dry last night inside when I took it apart after driving through fairly heavy rain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacks906 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 best thing i popped on my safari one was a metal grill far better than the plastic one that lasted 2 min's also i was going to connect a small rope or chain on the inside or back of the snorkle to the head so that when it gets nocked off it doesnt go too far may be putting the safari one back on as the rubber hose from the wing snorkle bit to the pillar snorkle bit has lotsa holes in it now ( only 2 or 3 months old ) dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calle-fas Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Wouldn't it be a good solution mounting a lid that you can open manually to remove dirt/sand/water that's been trapped at the lowest point? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacks906 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 the suction of it it will soon stop at the air filter unless it was alot of water you do have a slight trap if you leave the little funny bent thing in the system which will catch some stuff too (well on 300's you do) dont see it in cats first pic post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 Well mines almost there but its getting enough air to idle, just. Wont rev though. Taking it apart again tomorrow and rebuilding. This time resilicon everything then wrap the b****rds up with gaffer tape. I also had to buy a new silicon gun as I made the mistake of buying one from Jewson which broke literally on the second squeeze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacks906 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 is this now you have the snorkle on? could it be a abit of sylicone in the turbo?? or like i did not connect a jublee clip back up first time on boost pipe popped off and no pressure just a loud whistle and no go dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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