michael100 Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Helo Guys. I have just taken out the seats and carpets etc to inspect the whole floor of my Disco and the whole lot looks good. There are a few little surface pieces of rust particularly round the grommets. The boot floorpan is in good condition too. I would just like to know if theres anything I could apply to the inside of the floor to keep it in the same condition. The odd piece of soundproofing foam was wet in places and I thought if I could also protect the inside of the floor as well as the outside then theres a better chance of preventing the rust. I was thinking of Waxoyl but if anyone has and other ideas I would be grateful if you could share. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco_al Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 some rust killer type stuff from frost would be good (por13??), treat it with that (or jenolite) then zinc primer and some underseal that dries hard - not the tacky stuff. that's how i treated my boot floor. the underside will need doing too, otherwise it will eat it from the outside instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael100 Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 Cheers Al for the advice. I always do the underside as often as I can so thats not a worry for me. I came across a few tins of Hammerite ( direct to rust ) paint and wondered if this would be any good. It just says to wire brush the flakes of rust and spray direct onto the rust ! Guaranteed for 5 years ! Since I have plenty in the garage I wondered if this would be any good. I also found a small tin of rust remover so maybe if I applied this to the rusty little bits first then painted with Hammerite I could be onto a winner. Any comments on this idea ? thanx guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royAB Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 In 15 years of restoring Land Rover metal I've not yet found a Hamerite product that does what it claims to do on the tin.. and that applies particularly to their 'rust' products. Disco Al's suggestion is probably as good an approach as any, but be sure to get as much of the rust of as possible before you use any of the chemicals (Jenolite etc.) - they only seem act on a very thin surface layer & can easily leave 'active' rust underneath. Similarly, wire brushing often just burnishes the surface leaving most of the rust in situ. Best method I've found is to use a fine sanding disk or flapper wheel and take the surface to bare metal first. Time consuming, but longest lasting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 cant hurt! i used jelonite and then black hammerite on my rear xmember a couple of years ago and its still looking good now, ok the hamerite has chipped in a few places and needed a touch up - but its quite an exposed place on a 90! On the boot floor inside a disco under the carpets, its not likely to get chipped by rocks and general offroad abuse so should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparg Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 the systematic way to treat rust is to remove all signs, then paint using electrochemical and physical protection. In practise, that means shotblast, zinc based primer then abrasion protection (topcoat) this all sounds a bit much, especially because shotblasting is really dusty - everywhere! - but, a little while ago, Aldi were selling a little simple shotblast kit (suitable for spot blasting) for a tenner! The slightly easier approach is to wirebrush as much as poss, then apply a phosphoric acid based primer - I think Genolite is prob. that, and actually so is Finnegans. but, inasmuch as you have any tiny pockets of rust, they will continue (more slowly) under the paint The most important point is water - if it's continually wet, you're really fighting nature. drying out the area regularly helps. If that sounds too much messing about - buy a spare carpet set -and swap them round regularly, drying the other, so that the floor isn't continually wet. regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeagent Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 I wire-brushed all the rust, then painted the floor with red oxide metal primer (said it was ok over rust on the tin) I then painted it all with clear waxoyl... seems OK so far... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparg Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 I wire-brushed all the rust, then painted the floor with red oxide metal primer (said it was ok over rust on the tin) I then painted it all with clear waxoyl... seems OK so far... red oxide is ok, and tends to stick alright even if there are some slight traces of rust. It's only a physical barrier, though - it has no electrolytic protection properties like zinc does (other than helping to keep oxygen out) regards ppl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 primer is also not water proof, an needs a topcoat of some description to seal it. I am not entirely sure waxoyl counts as a topcoat as it does not bond with the primer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparg Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Helo Guys. I have just taken out the seats and carpets etc to inspect the whole floor of my Disco and the whole lot looks good. There are a few little surface pieces of rust particularly round the grommets. The boot floorpan is in good condition too. I would just like to know if theres anything I could apply to the inside of the floor to keep it in the same condition. The odd piece of soundproofing foam was wet in places and I thought if I could also protect the inside of the floor as well as the outside then theres a better chance of preventing the rust. I was thinking of Waxoyl but if anyone has and other ideas I would be grateful if you could share. Michael just thought - one reason why the rusts starts around the grommet is that the paint surface isn't continous there - the sharp edge can cause it to erode - and of course, putting the grommet in does that. then the grommet holds any moisture inplace against the metal nicely. so special care around those holes can help pevent them from growing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinny Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 just thought - one reason why the rusts starts around the grommet is that the paint surface isn't continous there - the sharp edge can cause it to erode - and of course, putting the grommet in does that. then the grommet holds any moisture inplace against the metal nicely. so special care around those holes can help pevent them from growing on a transit van i had i used denso tape and denso paste you can dig onto a water main thats been buried for 20 years remove the denso and its like new i think it takes a lot of beating also acts as a soundproof .chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparg Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 on a transit van i had i used denso tape and denso paste you can dig onto a water main thats been buried for 20 years remove the denso and its like new i think it takes a lot of beating also acts as a soundproof .chris what is that? - what's it originally for? cheers ppl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
royAB Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 http://www.denso.net/densotape/index.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparg Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 http://www.denso.net/densotape/index.htm ah right - thanks - Good stuff, I think - I used to use Winn and Coates stuff for under-north-sea corrosion protection for oil rig fabrications - they make proper stuff cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drkwack Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 Hi, only recently escaped from my garage doing the same thing, I used the stuff from Frost restorations, a surface prep ( acid based keep away from eyes, stings like hell) then their Por 15 paint then underseal then waxoyl if this rusts through sod it Im off to the pub, seriously get back to good clean metal then use the prodoucts of choice, take care and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john01473 Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Hi, only recently escaped from my garage doing the same thing, I used the stuff from Frost restorations, a surface prep ( acid based keep away from eyes, stings like hell) then their Por 15 paint then underseal then waxoyl if this rusts through sod it Im off to the pub, seriously get back to good clean metal then use the prodoucts of choice, take care and have fun. I took all my carpets and sound proofing out from the back of my Discovery I - I also found some dampness and rust patches - I did wire brush them and buy the rust cure stuff - to date I have not got around to full job as I have been messing about with door locks and oil changing. I am now ready to get to grips with the floor - I plan to wire brush on a drill - shrub the patches then apply the rust proof - then undercoat the whole floor. Then hand brush the paint topcoat. Inevitably I will have to change the floor - so saving up as quote comes in around £500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebiglad Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 I took all my carpets and sound proofing out from the back of my Discovery I - I also found some dampness and rust patches - I did wire brush them and buy the rust cure stuff - to date I have not got around to full job as I have been messing about with door locks and oil changing. I am now ready to get to grips with the floor - I plan to wire brush on a drill - shrub the patches then apply the rust proof - then undercoat the whole floor. Then hand brush the paint topcoat. Inevitably I will have to change the floor - so saving up as quote comes in around £500. I did the floor on my wife's Tdi 200 and it was way less than £500. The floor and two new crossmembers came to about 100+vat, plus paint and ancills. Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 I did the floor on my wife's Tdi 200 and it was way less than £500.The floor and two new crossmembers came to about 100+vat, plus paint and ancills. Cheers Dave i'm gessing the £500 parts and fitting, and your £100+vat was doing it your self Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john01473 Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 i'm gessing the £500 parts and fitting, and your £100+vat was doing it your self Had the non-stanrdard side steps cut off today as they had been welded on - while in the air had a look underneath floor worse underneath than thought, but front cross memeber is still ok. so decided to bite the bullett and replace floor. ordered floor from Paddock Motors £68 incl vat and P+P. and the labour to fit it and do some other odd welding bits will be around £300ish. much better than the £485 + parts +vat i was quoted - no names no pack drill. Big John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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