feeling the cold in your truck

[FridgeFreezer]

In case it helps here's the insides - I blanked the top of mine so the control cable is zip tied to the actuator rod but it shows the mechanism:

[Jocklandjohn]

38 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:

In case it helps here's the insides - I blanked the top of mine so the control cable is zip tied to the actuator rod but it shows the mechanism:

Ah excellent thanks! I had no idea what was going on in there. So basically theres no 'duct' as such simply a large void that channels the air across the bulkhead and exits at flaps and pipes up to the window vents. I'd not relish putting a new cable in there - seems well out of the way! Thats really helpful -  another bit of Land Rover I've seen for the first time! Its like being a geologist finding a fossil!

[Snagger]

The top of that dash trunking is held in by perimeter self-tapping screws, all hidden under the black plastic tray (you can see the holes in the photo). To get that tray out, you need to remove the plastic trim that hides the dash vent.  With the older models, that grey panel can be removed with the top fascia in place but is considerably easier with it removed.  I don’t know about the 2002+ models with black panel, but I imagine that comes out the same way - the rest of it is the same.

You can see in John’s photo the torque rod running about mid-height of the bottom slope, the two flaps below it and the two spring steel clips between the rod and a lip near the bottom of the vertical face of the duct.  The strips keep the rod seated in the clasps which act as hinges and locators for the rotating assembly.  The vent flaps should have foam seals on the bottom face, invisible in the photo, that gets squashed a little when demist is selected as per the position in the photo.  A 2-3mm pad of neoprene makes a very good replacement, but it needs to be a bit bigger than the hole it is sealing and needs to overlap from the flaps themselves by about 5mm in  all directions but the rod side to give a good seal for optimum demisting.

The heater matrix has the matrix mounted across only a part of the void at an incline.  The matrix is set to one side with a vertically hinged diverter flap adjacent that allows fan air to bypass the matrix when cold is selected and blocks the bypass to force the fan air through the matrix when hot is selected.  If you slacken the grub screws on the heat Bowden cable connections, select full hot on the lever and then manually turn the flap to the full hot position by twisting the rope end of the pivot rod where it pokes through the top of the housing, you can then set the cable to ensure the flap gives maximum blocking of the cold bypass and maximum output temperature.

[Jocklandjohn]

3 hours ago, Snagger said:

The top of that dash trunking is held in by perimeter self-tapping screws, all hidden under the black plastic tray (you can see the holes in the photo). To get that tray out, you need to remove the plastic trim that hides the dash vent.  With the older models, that grey panel can be removed with the top fascia in place but is considerably easier with it removed.  I don’t know about the 2002+ models with black panel, but I imagine that comes out the same way - the rest of it is the same.

You can see in John’s photo the torque rod running about mid-height of the bottom slope, the two flaps below it and the two spring steel clips between the rod and a lip near the bottom of the vertical face of the duct.  The strips keep the rod seated in the clasps which act as hinges and locators for the rotating assembly.  The vent flaps should have foam seals on the bottom face, invisible in the photo, that gets squashed a little when demist is selected as per the position in the photo.  A 2-3mm pad of neoprene makes a very good replacement, but it needs to be a bit bigger than the hole it is sealing and needs to overlap from the flaps themselves by about 5mm in  all directions but the rod side to give a good seal for optimum demisting.

The heater matrix has the matrix mounted across only a part of the void at an incline.  The matrix is set to one side with a vertically hinged diverter flap adjacent that allows fan air to bypass the matrix when cold is selected and blocks the bypass to force the fan air through the matrix when hot is selected.  If you slacken the grub screws on the heat Bowden cable connections, select full hot on the lever and then manually turn the flap to the full hot position by twisting the rope end of the pivot rod where it pokes through the top of the housing, you can then set the cable to ensure the flap gives maximum blocking of the cold bypass and maximum output temperature.

Grand explanation, thank you. I have had the heater out and it was pretty easily understood, but the arcane interaction of cables and flaps is something you definitely instructions to follow to get right!

[Snagger]

Once you see the innards, the logic to set them up is really simple, but when the innards are a mystery, then set up is far less clear.