madmatt Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 ahh the joys of a remote control Eberspacher!!!! I don't need to worry what the old Landy heater is doing!! Blip the button have breakfast walk out to a toasty warm and defrosted Land Rover - bliss!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GL88 Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Anderzander, top should be windscreen only, middle should be both and bottom should be mostly footwells but still with some over the screen. You can feel the control flaps and they should open further between mid and bottom position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 I overhauled my heating vents and controls on my ex-mil 110 not long after I bought it. I couldn't operate the controls either way and all the blow was on the floor. I stripped the wiper motor cover. headlight controls. instrument cluster. and removed as much trim as possible to allow the box to drop down and out. I was surprised that the box was literally full of army left overs The foreign object were stopping the travel of the internal flap on each side. I found a food knife, and spoon, 3 cartridge cases of 7.62, nuts bolts washers, unopened chewing gum, a padlock, various coins, and lots of sticky dissolved boiled sweets. This happened because the vent pipe which connected to windyscreen had come away and left a huge plughole. While it was out I painted and greased bits and insulated the wiring loom better which runs up from the fusebox. Other thing i noticed is that the aperture to the blower is smaller than it could be, any reason for this? works much better now though. just need to seal the draughts through the doors, especially at 50mph. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 I have a pair of those ten quid 12V heated blankets from Big W........ mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trendkill Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Best thing i did to improve the heater was fit a v8- some might think this a bit drastic though! amen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 Mis O G what your puma only manages the front side windows , my V8 110 does the rear windows , mind you that probably explains where all the fuel is going . On a serious note my 3.9i in a 110 is defrosting well within 3 miles from start , so there is something not right with your V8 90 set up JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 V8 90 is the engine temp going up quickly , otherwise you will be on rich mixture and waste gallonms of fuel ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 I have checked all the cables and they are moving everything the correct amount but it is still Luke warm to mildly warm. The Hot/Cold lever moves the heater box from open to closed (I can hear it thunk when I move the lever). The fan speed lever works as well as LR intended it to (I do have the fan speed mod kit I need to install). The vent direction lever opens and closes the under dash vent. But I have noticed that even when the vent is closed (air flow to screen) there is still a 8mm gape between the end of the flap and the edge of the vent. This means that air still comes out of the under dash vents even when fully on screen setting. Can live with that. The biggest problem is that it just doesn't heat up very much. Even when the temp guage is in the middle, i.e. vertical ish, the air is still not toasty hot. I take it that this points towards the heater matrix and involves taking it apart/replacing? thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted November 3, 2008 Share Posted November 3, 2008 There are also some pieces of foam inside the heater box, meant to seal off the flap inside. It's not uncommon that these work loose and fall off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Defender56 Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 My new (56) Defender works fairly well on the passenger side but is almost nothing on the drivers side, its the same with the aircon, all on the passenger sise. Any suggestions would be appreciated as I'm new to Td5's and aircon. (My old 300Tdi had an amazing heater!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 The biggest problem is that it just doesn't heat up very much. Even when the temp guage is in the middle, i.e. vertical ish, the air is still not toasty hot.I take it that this points towards the heater matrix and involves taking it apart/replacing? thanks. stupid question time - but have you ever done any deep muddy wading in your motor? If so then your heater matrix might be blocked full of mud - like any normal radiator / intercooler would. After a particularly muddy weekend at Tong, my heater would only push out luke warm mouldy muddy rotten veg smelling air. Not pleasant. So i drilled the top rivets out and bent the cover up and I couldnt even see the matrix! All i could see was a flat slab of muddy silt impregnated with leaves and 'vegetable debris'. Took the motor off the front of the heater and set too with a hose with warm water and got virtually all the mud out (made a right mess in the footwells) resealed the top of the matrix and riveted it back in place - now i have lovely warm air!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Thomson Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Baltic. After 200 miles or so, there is a faint wisp of off-cold air coming thru the vents. Absolutely baltic. Totally unfomfortable to drive in cold weather. Even with a V8 rorarer fitted (its particularly narking when you get out of the vehicle at journey's end to find heat bouncing at you from the front end!!!). Baltic. And sometimes a little colder. Brrrrrrr. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 I went to adjust the blower and the bolt sheered off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars L Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Sorry for bringing this up again... But I must share that I now seem to have got my heater working really good. A lot better than before anyway... I have tried another matrix, from a Fiesta, but it turned out to be leaking. So I grabbed my old matrix, made a mix of caustic soda and water that I poured into it and left it for a few minutes. Didn't want it to dissolve it completely. Then rinsed it with a hose from the water tap, filled it once more with my mix, waited a while and rinsed it again both ways. After that I filled the matrix with a water and chlorine detergent mix, waited and rinsed again. When looking into the hose connections, they now had the colour of clean copper on the inside. B) . That would indicate that the matrix now is as clean as it can be. I also washed it on the ouside and blowed it clean with compressed air. I lifted out the heater and installed the matrix, making sure to pack with foam so no cold air could escape around its sides. I also removed the standard resistor for the blower. You know, one speed that hardly moves the motor and one that is full storm. A resistor from a Volvo truck was installed, so now I have three fan speeds. The lowest setting is a little faster than before, full speed is full speed and there is one in between. A toggle switch (on/on) with an extra wire is used to split the low speed setting on the dash. But I think that the most important modification was that I opened up that silly little opening in the bulkhead. The opening is just about half the size of the outlet from the heater. The bulkhead opening is now almost as big as the heater duct. Previously, I always waited until the temp gauge (VDO) showed almost full heat before I switched on the blower. Now, there is warm air escaping the vents and clearing the windshield already when the pointer in the gauge has started to move. And my Land Rover is quite a bit toastier inside. Well chuffed and so on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutchgit Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 I suppose it could be possible to take a fan switch from a car that has three or more settings (with a built in resistor) and fit that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 I've been meaning to come back to this.What I was after was not what lever did what or where to adjust it.... though I realise if I figure out how to adjust the cable for the vent it all it should become right ....... but does the vent lever work on all Landy's like it does on mine (before I go and try and adjust it)..... ie - top position - windscreen vent - middle position - still windscreen vent - bottom position - windscreen and bottom vent As Western described well mine seems to be fully closed in the middle position .... is that normal? or should it be half open? top position airflow to screen the centre position lets the airflow both to screen & footwell. bottom position airflow to footwell sounds like you need to reset the lever positions & readjust the cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Thanks Western. Thanks for confirming how it should be. I'll pull the dash out and see if there is adjustment for the cable on that rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 6, 2008 Author Share Posted December 6, 2008 looks like all 3 cables connect to the flaps with a barrel & screw style fitting, simialr to the one that secures the cables at the heater end/bonnet release cable to bonnet catch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 4, 2009 Share Posted January 4, 2009 Finally fixed the vent controls on mine today.... in the foot well vent I found a pencil !.... the last owner must have had one of those kids who put jam sandwiches in his video recorder etc.... I also found that when the lever was moved down to the middle position the inner cable pulled out fine, but when you then moved it down to the bottom it pulled the outer cable too. Moving the lever back to the top then let the outer cable slide back to its original position. Thus why I could never get all the air fully out of just the top vent - or fully out of just the bottom vent. The outer cable cover was all peeled back exposing the metal coils just behind the clamp. So what must have happened is that the pencil has jammed the vent and the control has then been forced down - dislodging the outer cable from its clamp. I've reset the outer cable and clamped it down really tightly - sprayed some wd40 down into the outer sleeve and all is well! Small thing, easy fix in the end, but very pleased to have control of the air again! I gave it a good wash too - including under the bonnet and hosing the footwells out - so feels like a productive day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 I went to adjust mine a while ago but the one down the side (heat I think I remember) the bolt just sheered off, bloody rust. So... I need to replace the clippy bit thingy for the wire to attach to. Can you turn clippy bit thingy into a part number please western? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 Can you turn clippy bit thingy into a part number please western? Cheers. The green outer cable clips are 13H7343L the bolt/nut inner cable grippy trunnion things are rtc5978 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Cheers Western, as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted November 20, 2010 Share Posted November 20, 2010 Good thread, I think I need to adjust my cables. Can't get the fan at full speed anymore! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 I'm going to try this to mine, the heaters rubbish. Thanks for the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reads90 Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Don't know if my heater works as in the 2 years I have owned the 110 I have never used it. But the air con works great and is normally on for 10 months of the year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.