beko1987 Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Had a few hours before the light went just now in my truck and made a start on the bodged up wiring. I took the old ancient tape player out with the intention of replacing it with a JVC CD player donated by a friend. The old player didn't work, not surprising really! I thinned out the wires, took out the old speaker wiring (plan to run some newer, better stuff anyway) and the old earth lead. I took the live from the rear work lamp and split it using a scotch block (live from battery into block, then stereo and switch live out) and heatshrunk the connection to make it nice and tidy! I made a new earth cable and ran that to the work light switch as well (although plan to run a thicker, newer wire to the chassis somewhere, for both the stereo and work light, as both are earthing off the speedo atm!) With these 2 things done, I connected the new player up. It ejects a cd (lights up etc) and displays the time with a press of the disp button, as it should, but doesnt turn on and stay on. I then connected the red accessory lead to the acc lead on the work lamp switch. The work lamp has continued to work throughout this btw, but still nothing. I even tried wiring a speaker up too but to no avail. I know the cd player works, and I know the switch to the work lamp works, so I'm really stumped as to why the player doesnt turn on! I've read the manual for the player but resetting the unit doesn't work! The pin outs on the player are (if it helps): Red - Accessory Yellow - Battery Black - Ground Blue/White - Remote then the front and rear left and right speakers. Player is a JVC KD-S611 The blue and white isn't connected, not sure what it and the accessory wire do tbh! Just annoying how it does work with the ignition off, but doesnt stay on, yet the switch it runs through does. The player is a negative earth if it helps, not sure what mine is but all the earths run to the bodywork/chassis! Any general electric questions answered would be great anyway to give me a greater understanding of how it all works anyway! Also, on a slightly related note are there any better methods of splicing wires together than soctch block? The current wiring has those horrible red blocks that peirce the wiring when clamped down to add wores, or in the case of the ignition twisted together and taped up! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timmymac Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 hi how they are normally wired up are red (power with ign on ) yellow (memory always live ) black (earth ) blue ( switchs an amp if fitted ) hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 It might sound silly, but is the battery well charged?? I had a similar problem with a new Sony head unit and it turned out that my split-charge wasn't charging the auxillary battery that the stereo was is wired to... On the wire connector front, try using bullet crimp terminals or crimp butt connectors - do a search on google and you'll get a load of different suppliers listed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick w Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 cant fully understand the problem but really you should access the wiring around the steering colum and pick up a switched live from the load/secondary side of the ignition a permanant live from the supply side of the ignition or straight from the battery the ground can then be grounded to any thing which will give agood earth this is important . if you get these 3 ie permanant ,switched and ground all should be ok sounds and is more simple this way as you know exactly what you are getting and its all next to your stereo oops better put some in line fuses in if there not on the stereo already .picking differant supplies from work lights ect creates problems by knowing which side is load and which is feed ect plus is there a good circuit to earth hope it helps and hope i am correct in what i say pretty confident i am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 I'll just add - throw the scotchloks away, they're hateful things. Solder & heatshrink or good crimp terminals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 I'll just add - throw the scotchloks away, they're hateful things. Solder & heatshrink or good crimp terminals. Yeah, wasnt sure about the scotchblocks, will aquire some double crimps. I'm heatshrinking ALL the connections, makes it look SO much neater and helps the waterproofing and insulation! Yea, I need to have a de-tangle behind the speedo panel, so will prob end up doing that. I know I have a live from the battery, it's the live from the ignition that would need sorting. Again with the earth I'll trace back where the existing one goes and feed the new one in accordingly. The battery is complete sh*te, so that could well be areason. Once it's wired in to the ignition, would that cause it to work at least when the engines on, give it more juice etc? Won't really know until the weekend when I'll overhaul the brakes and the wiring, so can only ponder until then! The wiring doesnt look too bodged, apart from the work lamp and rear fog switch, so hopefully I can fully take those out and start afresh. All the wires look in good condition too so shouldnt have to replace too many of those. Was talking to a mate about the inline fuse to the battery as well, and as the cd player has a 10 amp blade fuse in the back he thinks it'll be allright. Anyone care to confirm/argue this, and if argue, what would the best way to fit an inline fuse be? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Fuse should be fitted as close to the battery as possible. The head unit may well have a fuse in it, but that means there is nothing to protect the wire from the battery to the unit - it could all become a horrible melted mess if things were to go wrong... Don't ask how I know!! Have a look at VWP: Vehicle Wiring Products website An in-line Glass Cartridge Fuse Holder is all I use on mine - same fuse rating as the one in the back of my head unit. VWP will also open the world of alternatives to scotchloks!! HTH Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 On the battery front - take it out, clean the terminals and put it on charge for a couple of days - preferably a high charge for an hour-or-so, then a trickle charge for the remainder. That should give enough power to run the stereo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick w Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Fuse should be fitted as close to the battery as possible. The head unit may well have a fuse in it, but that means there is nothing to protect the wire from the battery to the unit - it could all become a horrible melted mess if things were to go wrong... Don't ask how I know!!Have a look at VWP: Vehicle Wiring Products website An in-line Glass Cartridge Fuse Holder is all I use on mine - same fuse rating as the one in the back of my head unit. VWP will also open the world of alternatives to scotchloks!! HTH Adrian Dont matter where you put the fuse the cable can only melt through over load or a fault current once the fuse blows no more load can be drawn preventing this unless it goes to ground which is pretty unlikley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leaf Sprung Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Hi The blue with white strip or remote wire are the remote wire for a amp and sub unit. The red Or acc wir should be conected this allows the head unit to power up when the key is turned on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Dont matter where you put the fuse the cable can only melt through over load or a fault current once the fuse blows no more load can be drawn preventing this unless it goes to ground which is pretty unlikley So if your fuse is inside the vehicle and the wire passes through the bulkhead down to the battery and shorts to ground at the bulkhead, how is the fuse which is up stream of the short and the battery and there fore not in the circuit, going to stop the bit of wire from the short down to the battery from melting and possibly catching fire or damaging the rest of your wiring? Fuse close as possible to the battery is very good practice. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beko1987 Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 On the battery front - take it out, clean the terminals and put it on charge for a couple of days - preferably a high charge for an hour-or-so, then a trickle charge for the remainder. That should give enough power to run the stereo. That website is great, cheers! Will buy a splash-proof holder, some new cable and some new fuses. Need new 35 amps all round anyway. The old inline fuse was right by the stereo so I'll stick it in the engine bay somewhere. Cheers for all the info folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 youre earthing it through the speedo? well theres the problem in my opinion, the earth is tiny as its only designed for the dash illumination. The accesory wire is to switch the radio on automatically wehen you turn the ignition on however if you dont need this function just connect accessory and battery feed together. earth is obviosuly chassis earth, the remote feed is to swictha an external amp.electronic aerieal. hope that helps on the scotchlocks, take them out and burn them and any other stock of them youhave they are awfulhateful things that have no place in a vehicle, use proper crimp connectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick w Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 So if your fuse is inside the vehicle and the wire passes through the bulkhead down to the battery and shorts to ground at the bulkhead, how is the fuse which is up stream of the short and the battery and there fore not in the circuit, going to stop the bit of wire from the short down to the battery from melting and possibly catching fire or damaging the rest of your wiring?Fuse close as possible to the battery is very good practice. Pete. as i said this is unlikely if done properly which is why land rover use gromets and put the fuses in the bulkhead and fuses are on the wiring loom of the stereo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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