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Damn TD5


Revor

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not sure really why but we had loadsa problems when i was woking on tractors with them running low and sucking up rubbish had one that the pick up pipe pipe was blocked full of strips of metal only 1mm strips but lots of them in there

i suppose its like when you've had a bath an been muddy once you let it drain it all gathers around the plug hole

when the tank has fuel in it'll slosh around etc but as it runs empty it'll all gather

confused you more now :P:P

dave

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But why does this happen when the tank is empty and not when it is full/half full etc.? I hope I am not coming across as thick but I cannot see why this would happen. :unsure:

Chris

It may just come down to probability. The chances of a paper disk within 60l of liquid being in the right place to block the pickup is 1/6th that of the same disk in 10l?

Si

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If the rubbish floats on the diesel then it would have more of an effect when the tank was nearly empty. The surface of the fuel would get closer to the fuel pickup and therefore rubbish would be more likely to be sucked into the pickup.

Martin

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Soooo we've finally got decent weather here this weekend. Loads of time to trouble shoot and double check things.

After doing all that double checking and troubleshooting I noticed while cranking the engine over by hand (to double check the timing) the there was a hissing sound on most all the compression strokes. That's not right!! After some listening I determined that it was indeed coming from the crankcase!!

No further question the head has to come off.

First off was the intake manifold. When I removed it a nasty black liquid had been resting inside it and splashed all about the floor. Obviously amix of water oil and fuel.

Also found in the puddle of "stuff" was a mashed and bent up 6mm stud and Nut like you would normally find holding the injectors to a GEMS intake manifold! Not a good sign!

I then had Karen crank the engine while I held my hands over the intake ports.. well four of the five would blow as well as suck while cranking.. No compression..

After removing the head i found the #2 intake valve to be the victom of the stud and bolt. The valve is bent and the seat is pretty much gone. This would explain why it would run decent some of the time and occasionally (when the stud got stuck in the valve) act liek it was only running on 4..

On top of that, probably because it overheated due to this "little" problem, 1,2,3 and four pistons where nice and clean (and wet) only #5 was dry and carboned up.

Surprisingly the damage to the piston is minimal, I'll evaluate teh bottome end tommorow.

Well carp now I need a head.. Any recommendations about who to stay away from? As I'll likely be buying it from the UK you guys would know best. Also does it make sense to pick up an entire unit from one who needed just teh block? Or should I avoid that?

One other question does anyone use studs in these heads rather than stretch bolts?

I'd lie to thank you all for your thoughts, Ideas and Support! I can only hope this has been intersting if not a bit educational for the forum.

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After having a closer look, our friend the stud was bouncing around from port to port, my guess is once the damage was done in one port it would get blown back out into the intake and go down another.

From left to right intake valves 1,2,3,4,5. Only 1 and five are straight..

post-1006-1232314249_thumb.jpg

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I recieved my new head on friday thanks to the folks at Turner Engineering for the quick turn around.

Pretty much stuck it on, bled the system, crossed my fingers and fired it up!

Note to self, just because it's an electronically controlled engine don't forget the basics! (or wierd stuff finding their way into the intake manifold)

Thanks again guys, for your support and ideas!

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