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Chassis prep?


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Sorry, its that old chestnut again.....

I am in the process of changing the bulkhead on my 1993 90 and have had to change the bulkhead outrigger at the same time .. see Outrigger replacement Thread

The rest of the chassis seems to be in decent condition, however, since it is stripped back, I might as well paint it.

But what with? The obvious thing would be waxoil or schultz type underbody sealant, but since it will stay tacky for about 6 weeks, it will only cause a mess.

I had thought about Hammeriting all the inacessable areas, then waxoil it from underneath once it the all back together.

What other option are there?

I am looking for something that will dry quickly (ie 24 hours rather than 6 weeks) and will not cause a mess as I need to work in the engine bay to put it all back together.

Cheers.

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forget hammerite it chips off for a pastime

I use Halfords Matt Black enamel dries in a hr or so even o/s in the current air temps

hard wearing easily painted over then when you can waxoyl as much as you can.

Do not use POR15 which should be called POS15 it is rubbish

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forget hammerite it chips off for a pastime

I use Halfords Matt Black enamel dries in a hr or so even o/s in the current air temps

hard wearing easily painted over then when you can waxoyl as much as you can.

Do not use POR15 which should be called POS15 it is rubbish

Thanks Tony.

Will probably give enamel a go.

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Do not use POR15 which should be called POS15 it is rubbish

Never had a problem with POR15, it's done about 7 of my fuel tanks and a friend in the fuel tank and fibreglassing industry uses it each day for repaired tanks, but thats my experience of it ;)

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Another vote here for POR15. It doesn't stick to paint or indeed shiny surfaces very well, but anything even slightly "weathered" or rusty is will stick like a sticky thing to a blanket.

A mate dipped a rusty metal hammer in POR15 and has been using it since, he says it's not even chipped off on the HEAD where it's been hit :blink:

Oh, DO NOT get it on your hands, only a long time or a skin graft can remove it!

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Have a look in WICKS.

They make their own brand of imitation Hammerite.

I prefer it to Hammerite,You clean the brushes off in normal white spirits.

I eat rat poison.They didn't change my dosage last Friday.

mike FOAK

I can cause trouble in an empty house!!!

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POS15 peels off in sheets on anything I tried

biggest waste of ££/time I made on my L/R

It's funny how it works for some and not others, bit like Hammerite, I know of people who swear by the stuff, while others hate it, me included :huh:

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It's funny how it works for some and not others, bit like Hammerite, I know of people who swear by the stuff, while others hate it, me included :huh:

I think a lot of the problems occur through bad or little preperation, as with any painting job prep is all!

having said that i have tried and tried with Hammerite -finished job looks good but just doesnt take the knocks , any good coach Enamel should stay on and last if preped and applied properly-allways use it

never have probs with it , thats my experience anyway,

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Thanks for the opinions.

Now to take it a bit further. The chassis was blasted with shultz underbody sealer about 18 months ago, and all the areas that were done - ie the areas that can be reached from underneath, are in very good condition. I have rubbed a couple fo areas back and the metal is fresh underneath.

So I dont see any point in rubbing it all back to do it again. What would happen if I painted over the underbody sealer with the enamel paint?

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