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Need direction on trouble shooting


kevinr
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Well, after reading the first few on the post lists, it seems to be the season for V8's to go t*t's up!

I have a few issues here that I could do with advice on, I have a fairly good idea what the issue is, however, it would be nice to have some back up ideas just in case.

First issue, I recently had the clutch changed (november) however, i can feel the clucth grinding through the pedal whenever I change up a gear..is this normal or should I be taking it back to the garage who did the job, to have them correct it?

Second issue, the car hesitates, especially when cold, I pull out of a junction, and there a few moments where I have no pull from the engine, then suddenly, it kickis in, and pulls away.

Third issue, the engine races when I come to a standstill and pres the clutch pedal, the revs go to 1k and sit there for a few moments before coming down

Fourth Issue, Big oil leak on the back of the handbrake drum.

and Lastly, the baffles on my mid section have been blown following a misfire I had when I replaced my HT leads..for around 2 weeks after, I had to keep checking the leads, as they kept slipping off the dizzy cap..now they have seated and hold firm.

Where the clucth issue is concerend, I am going to be doing an oil change on the main and transfere gearbox, the transfere gearbox needs a new oilseal, and while I'm at it, I'll be replacing the driveflange...could this be why I feel a grind in my cluth pedal? Probably clucthing at astraws I know, but I thought Id ask anyway, I assume new oil alround would make gear changes a little smoother anyway.

I will also be replacing the mid box, I looked at putting in a stainless through pipe, but for the sake of £20, I can get a full mid box fitted, and have less risk of MOT failure due to excessive noise level, also, I was told, the back pressure on the rear box could destroy the baffles in there anyway as it's not designed to take that much pressure...any truth to that?

I'm hoping too, that the knackered mid box is the cause of the hesitation in the engine, and the racing engine, from what I understand, (again, told to me by a third party) the knackered baffles will prevent the lamda sensors from doing there job right or at all, so causing overfueling when I come to a stop, and under fueling when i start pulling away..is there any element of truth to this..or am I again clutching at straws.

Any of you gurus able to shed some light/point me in the right direction?

TIA

Kev

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the knackered back box is probably at the bottom of most of your probs

but im not convinced that the ht lead just falling off has been solved as they wont have got tighter through use and a poor connection here wont help your running any, if they fit there a bugger to get out, worth a recheck i think

dont see how you can feel any grinding through the clutch pedal as there is no direct connection to the clutch, sure its not just vibration, if you not happy take it back to them

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First issue, I recently had the clutch changed (november) however, i can feel the clucth grinding through the pedal whenever I change up a gear..is this normal or should I be taking it back to the garage who did the job, to have them correct it?

Sounds like poor qulaity parts used maybe not running as true as they should be ?

Second issue, the car hesitates, especially when cold, I pull out of a junction, and there a few moments where I have no pull from the engine, then suddenly, it kickis in, and pulls away.

Could be a raft of things, sounds like service related ie plugs leads timing air filter plugs dizzy cap rotor arm etc etc etc - ie not smooth running

Third issue, the engine races when I come to a standstill and pres the clutch pedal, the revs go to 1k and sit there for a few moments before coming down

Poss jamming throttle cable, air leak or Stepper valve sticking road speed sensor or AFM issue(s)

Fourth Issue, Big oil leak on the back of the handbrake drum.

Output seal gone in box easy fix

and Lastly, the baffles on my mid section have been blown following a misfire I had when I replaced my HT leads..for around 2 weeks after, I had to keep checking the leads, as they kept slipping off the dizzy cap..now they have seated and hold firm.

Chnage the entire lead set for a genuine set that fit properly - non genuine Cap leads and rotor arm are renown for giving loads of issues

Nige

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First issue, I recently had the clutch changed (november) however, i can feel the clucth grinding through the pedal whenever I change up a gear..is this normal or should I be taking it back to the garage who did the job, to have them correct it?

Sounds like poor qulaity parts used maybe not running as true as they should be ?

Second issue, the car hesitates, especially when cold, I pull out of a junction, and there a few moments where I have no pull from the engine, then suddenly, it kickis in, and pulls away.

Could be a raft of things, sounds like service related ie plugs leads timing air filter plugs dizzy cap rotor arm etc etc etc - ie not smooth running

Third issue, the engine races when I come to a standstill and pres the clutch pedal, the revs go to 1k and sit there for a few moments before coming down

Poss jamming throttle cable, air leak or Stepper valve sticking road speed sensor or AFM issue(s)

Fourth Issue, Big oil leak on the back of the handbrake drum.

Output seal gone in box easy fix

and Lastly, the baffles on my mid section have been blown following a misfire I had when I replaced my HT leads..for around 2 weeks after, I had to keep checking the leads, as they kept slipping off the dizzy cap..now they have seated and hold firm.

Chnage the entire lead set for a genuine set that fit properly - non genuine Cap leads and rotor arm are renown for giving loads of issues

Nige

Must agree with the above about using the right cap and arm, non genuine parts can course some problems that will appear to be not connected with the ignition system and have you looking all over for the problem

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thanks for the suggestions guys,

With regards to the leads etc, they were all replaced, ie leads, plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm. The plugs are champions, the leads were a generic set from Paddocks, but the rotor arm, dizzy cap, oil and air filters were genuine parts...I'll have a check in the morning, and go over the plugs, make sure they are tightened correctly, when I put them in, I gapped them and set them to the torque settings as prescribed in the haines manual, but worth a check...as for timing, the car is EFI can I adjust this? I was under the impression that whatever I did would be overridden by the ECU.

The output seal is as you say an easy fix, I have read the relevant thread on this forum for that, the job will be done soon.

As for the clutch, it could be vibration, it usually occurs when I press the pedal past half it's travel length, below that it is fine, I just never noticed it on the original clucth, but to be fair, that was knackered so is not the best thing to judge by. I have a feeling they may have used brit parts..I know other people who have had work carried out there, and it seems to be the norm...is this a problem? When i first felt the vibration (it came several weeks after the job) I rang them back, they suggested it could be down to the part bedding in still, but by now I think that period should have passed.

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Bin the leads buy genuine at the very least

As to the champions, not favourite for a V8, some find them OK I have found over the years NGK seem preferable

Yes you can adjust the timing, there is a plate holding the dizzy down with one bolt loosen this, but 1st pop a tippex mark(s) so you know where is is now, and also mark TDC on the pulley, then set by loosening the dizzy clamp disconnect vacumn advance and check dizzy setting with a strobe lamp at tickover to the correct setting for your engine then re tighen dizzy clamp

Nige

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well, wow..what can I say. I have not replaced anything as yet (no funds) but I have gone over the ht leads and plugs, found 2 plugs that needed tweaking up a bit more..so much for torque settings!! and I foundsome of the leads were not 100% seated into the dizzy cap, infact one of them I had to use a small screw driver to fully seat it, for the rest, I pulled back the rubber boot and made sure they were seated. I also took the time to route my cables following a diagram I found in the tech archives, and what a difference!!! the engine doesn't race anymore, during gear change or when I come to a standstill, when I pull away, I get a positive response rather then a second of nothing, then a pull, the gear change is alot smoother, and that vibration/grinding I felt through the clutch pedal is alot less pronounced....amazing really, so lesson learnt here is a few more minutes taken when changing sparks and leads is worth a whole lot less headache :) so thanks for the tips guys..pure gold!

The next job will be to plug the oil leak on the transfer box, replace the leads with genuine parts, NGK plugs, exhaust mid section (I still have a little less power then I had originally) and once I can get hold of a strobe, check the timing, maybe advance it a little, and then to check and adjust the tappets, I have a slight clicking sound from the engine, assume tappets??

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Glad to hear you're getting sorted :P

I've just cured a

/hestitation on the Freebie that turned into nearly coughing to death on the motorway in the p*ssing rain by throwing the generic Paddocks (sh*tpart) HT leads, cap and arm over my shoulder and fitting genuine. Given how fussy RV8's are about ignition I'd be investing the £25 it costs for a set of Lucas/Bosch leads from the motor factors.
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Your clutch problem could be down to the Clutch Damper (the device that hides the clutch shuddering from the pedal)

It appears that this is a common cause of pain to those who need to bleed clutch hydraulics and therefore is often bypassed.

http://www.landroverclub.net/Club/HTML/Dis...utch_damper.htm

It's worth noting that when my clutch wouldn't bleed through it, I simply bought a new one!!

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