Mark Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 Morning all, Have been modifying a set of 8" Modulars to take Staun internal beadlocks. To do this you need to drill a hole in the rim for the beadlock valve to come through, and the positioning of this is quite important according to the staun instructions. Following the instructions in the same way as thier video also suggests puts the valve inside the central disc of the wheel, which isn't ideal for either accesability or clearence on brake calipers etc. I have gone with positioning the staun valve in the vertical section of the rim, exactly the same plane as the tyre valve sits. Does anyone see any problem with position? As far as I can tell it fits the criteria set out by staun, and shouldn't distort the inner tube too much, but it seems contrary to thier instructions for some reason. If this makes sense to anyone, and they have an idea, pls let me know. ta (sorry, no pictures as I forgot to take my camera... ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 Right, thought a digram might help... This is a cross section of the rim. I have put my hole at position 1, same as the tyre valve. The instructions say ideally position 2 (problem with too much metal) or 3 - both inaccessable really. Can anyone see any problems with this position? ta Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted March 6, 2009 Share Posted March 6, 2009 I can't see a big issue with that structurally, since there's already a hole there for the tyre valve. I presume you'll be drilling at 180degrees to the normal valve for balance? As far as the beadlock tube goes, I can't say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 6, 2009 Author Share Posted March 6, 2009 staun reckon 6 - 8 inches from the tyre valve. Balance would be nice, but it probably makes little difference... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michele Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 I can't check my 8 spokes at the mo (they're 230 Kms far from me) but I think I drilled the holes in the same position... As far as it's nicely flat it should be ok... Only hint, replace the long plastic cap with a shorter one...it will not stick out as much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 The Valves are TR412 pic of mine I got 10 from Ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 All the wheels have now been drilled in the position above and had the beadlocks fitted to them. Separate valves are not required with the current design as the tyre valve is also supplied with the beadlock kit. The stauns are not as bad as I was expecting them to be to fit - def. a 2 man job though. Valves are protected by rings weleded to the rim - not exactly pretty but certainly functional. No pics I am afraid as Mr Orange took them away with him! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Have considered reversing the rims? as Modulars were a PITA with Simex on as the backspacing was no where near enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 9, 2009 Author Share Posted March 9, 2009 Not considered it just yet. We will see what happens - they haven't made it onto the truck yet, so we will do the first round of the challenger series and see how we get on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treebloke Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I have always wondered why the staun valve could not be fitted to the opposite side of the wheel to help balance. Tony, did you cut a groove into those rubber valves to let the air bypass. The Staun ones are a flat metal base IIRC. I put some rubber ones in once and I had to let the tyre down before I could let the locker down, the air could not get past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 18, 2009 Author Share Posted March 18, 2009 The new lockers come with a valve for the tyre as well, which has an airpath through to the tyre casement. Not really sure why you can't fit them opposite each other, it would seem the logical way to do it, but all the instructions are quite clear about not doing that. At some point I'll post some pictures up of the wheels we did... they aren't pretty, but I think they should work OK.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Pictures......will that mean I'll have to tidy up the quick slap of paint I gave them??!!! There doesn't appear to be an issue with balancing at the moment (been for a couple of jaunts since fitting them), but the steering lock may be an issue... They definitely seem to rub 'slightly' on the radius arms!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveG Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 I have always wondered why the staun valve could not be fitted to the opposite side of the wheel to help balance.Tony, did you cut a groove into those rubber valves to let the air bypass. The Staun ones are a flat metal base IIRC. I put some rubber ones in once and I had to let the tyre down before I could let the locker down, the air could not get past. I think Tony's pic was just to show valves, he's running staz double beadlocks. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Cheers Steve yes Bob the pic was just for thew Valves themselves. After the weekend I need to fit another spacer in my N/S front after winching it side ways till the tyre bagged enough to release the 10psi in there still the double beadlock meant I could drive back to the start then fill it with air. It has a 4mmspacer with the original doughnut but a 6mm I think is required. I have loads of spares so will re do it for the next outing.(along with brake lines) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.