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My axle won't drop...


ThreeSheds

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I have decided that the rear axle on the RRC is too corroded and stripping out the Disco donor axle wouln't be worth the effort, so I am going to swap the whole axle. I have undone all of the nuts and bolts - the lower shock nuts, the front radius arm bolts, the top 'A' frame ball joint nut, the brake pipe and the prop shaft but the axle won't drop. It appears to be hanging on the A frame.

Any sugestions?

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You say you have removed the A frame ball joint nut but have you actually split the ball joint off the axle?.

They are like an overgrown track rod end, you are unlikely to get a ball joint splitter big enought to work. A sharp blow with a BIG hammer on the saddle on the axle should free it but they are often very tight and access can be an issue, I normally use a 9lb sledge hammer nothing else usually does the job.

The other way is to remove the two bolts holding the ball joint onto the two arms and drop the lot with the ball joint still on the axle then get it free once it is off the vehicle as you can get a much better swing at it then.

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As sean said the tper of the ball joint sticks inside the axle bracket. I find prying the joint apart while hitting is more effective at freeing the taper than just hitting, but it's idelly a 2 person job to pry and hit. Also leave the nut on loose while doing this so that it can't just fly apart.

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Many thanks for the replies - I had never imagined from the look of it that it was on a taper. :blink:

Hammering it looks awkward but removing the two through bolts may be even more difficult since I would then have to take the Boge unit off and I tried that once before - not easy.. :(

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Support the axle on axle stands.

Put a bottle / trolley jack under the nose of the diff.

Play with the height of the jack whilst systematically hammering the casting which the ball joint sits in.

When you get the height right, the taper will line up and with a bit of persuasion it will come apart.

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Well I spent the odd happy half hour this week clobbering the ball mount with the biggest hammer I had - perhaps a little surprisingly for someone who has been working on his RRC for three years - a 11/2lb ball-peen jobbie I have had for thirty years, and I have got nowhere. :(

This morning I decided to go and buy the correct tool for the job - Land Rover Special Tool #1 - a 4lb lump hammer :) Four whacks and it's cracked. Brilliant! :) :) :)

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Well I spent the odd happy half hour this week clobbering the ball mount with the biggest hammer I had - perhaps a little surprisingly for someone who has been working on his RRC for three years - a 11/2lb ball-peen jobbie I have had for thirty years, and I have got nowhere. :(

This morning I decided to go and buy the correct tool for the job - Land Rover Special Tool #1 - a 4lb lump hammer :) Four whacks and it's cracked. Brilliant! :) :) :)

May I sugest you but Special Tool #2, a 16lb sledge! :i-m_so_happy:

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May I sugest you but Special Tool #2, a 16lb sledge! :i-m_so_happy:

In the days of Red Robbo, a standard production tool used to set door gaps was a piece of wood. It is used in the door jamb, shut door onto wood, bingo door fits.

Known as a Coventry screwdriver!!

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