SPendrey Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Hi All, I've read a number of threads about where to fit jate rings (probably one front and one rear), but my situation is this... I need the tow bar on the rear which prevents me from using the normal pre-drilled holes. Is there any problem drilling a new route through one side of the chassis at the rear, nearer the back? Are the existing holes 'hollow' or do they have a tube fitted/welded in? Other than introducing yet another point for rust to begin, are there any other issues to look for? Not sure about the front yet, hoping to take the front valance off, cut out a small section and replace with the jate ring poking through... I read someone else did that. Thanks, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Attryde Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 The existing holes are tubed to stop the chassis crushing. You may be able to get wide Jate rings that will allow the towbar to be retained. Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 Yeah, I wondered about that. Already got the (forged) jate rings though, so don't really want to source another set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlo Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Hi All, I've read a number of threads about where to fit jate rings (probably one front and one rear), but my situation is this... I need the tow bar on the rear which prevents me from using the normal pre-drilled holes. Is there any problem drilling a new route through one side of the chassis at the rear, nearer the back? Are the existing holes 'hollow' or do they have a tube fitted/welded in? Other than introducing yet another point for rust to begin, are there any other issues to look for? Not sure about the front yet, hoping to take the front valance off, cut out a small section and replace with the jate ring poking through... I read someone else did that. Thanks, Scott If you have a towbar just fit a ball & pin hitch that will be your rear recovery point which will pull equally on both sides of the chassis. For the front you could source a product known as Jack Mates Which in my opinion work better then jate rings they used to around £60 a pair and supplied by David Bowyer The other front option would be a steering guard with built in recovery points Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 JATE rings shouldn't be clamped tight to the chassis as I under stand it, they should be free to swing. If you do just put JATE rings through drilled holes in the thin chassis they will wear very quickly. If your keeping the tow bar then a clevis hitch like Karlo posted will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 ^^ Quite right Drill oversize holes, weld in some thick wall tube and then fit jate rings with nylocs, only tighten enough to remove majority of slack, loose enough to still move Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted June 10, 2009 Author Share Posted June 10, 2009 Great, thanks for the feefdback. So, the plan will be to get one of those ball and pin hitches for the back (mounted a bit higher up since the pin looks like it'll drag), and then jate rings on the front. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Even if you have a tow ball/pin at the back for heavy recoveries I would still recommend using a bridle attached to 2 jate rings to spread the load to both chassis rails- tow balls are only as strong as the crossmember they are attached to... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Even if you have a tow ball/pin at the back for heavy recoveries I would still recommend using a bridle attached to 2 jate rings to spread the load to both chassis rails- tow balls are only as strong as the crossmember they are attached to... True, I have had one on the back of my Series1 since the 1980s with out problems. Use the correct bolts and a large plate behind the crossmember. Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlo Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Even if you have a tow ball/pin at the back for heavy recoveries I would still recommend using a bridle attached to 2 jate rings to spread the load to both chassis rails- tow balls are only as strong as the crossmember they are attached to... Surely on a Disco it bolts to both Chassis and Crossmember, well it did on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPendrey Posted June 11, 2009 Author Share Posted June 11, 2009 Certainly is, straight through where the jate rings would have gone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 i bought some jate rings through paddocks, they are extra wide and they fit around my steering guard which uses the normal jate ring holes. they fit very slack on the rear as i have no towbar fitted, but are getting swapped for some narrower ones as my mates jate rings on his defender are standard width and therefore his bull bars cannot be fitted. The one's from paddocks are not forged, just 3 pieces of galvanised steel welded together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 The one's from paddocks are not forged, just 3 pieces of galvanised steel welded together Be VERY Carefull as I have personally seen these bent deform and crack and near come apart one thing you could do is ALWAYS use both together to lessen the forces involved, but FFS do bear the above in mind, not being a kill joy - I'm just giving you a heads up that they are poor for recovery - I'm not a huge fan of Cast Jate rings for HD recoveries either but they are superior, at the end of the day its just 1 10mm bolt... in shear Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 You can buy OE cast ones which are wider to fit round things part number begins with a Z, have a google and you should find them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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