pw8757 Posted July 7, 2009 Share Posted July 7, 2009 I have had some problems over the past few months with a wheel wobble. (Some of you have kindly provided advice earlier re uj's, balancing, etc. I had eliminated all of these, so when I recently had to visit ATS to get my exhaust fixed, I had the steering alignment checked. The technician (who is himself a landy buff) adjusted the tracking, but told me that he had run out of adjustment with the steering still slightly out of true. His view was that the steering box may have shifted slightly, and might need to be adjusted itself. The Haynes says that there is an alignment lug, which suggests to me that it would be prudent to seek the views of the collected wisdom of this forum before setting to with WD40 and various spanners. I have a feeling that something might be bent, or jolted out of position, but which something is the issue. Advice please? All views greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I have had some problems over the past few months with a wheel wobble. (Some of you have kindly provided advice earlier re uj's, balancing, etc.I had eliminated all of these, so when I recently had to visit ATS to get my exhaust fixed, I had the steering alignment checked. The technician (who is himself a landy buff) adjusted the tracking, but told me that he had run out of adjustment with the steering still slightly out of true. His view was that the steering box may have shifted slightly, and might need to be adjusted itself. The Haynes says that there is an alignment lug, which suggests to me that it would be prudent to seek the views of the collected wisdom of this forum before setting to with WD40 and various spanners. I have a feeling that something might be bent, or jolted out of position, but which something is the issue. Advice please? All views greatly appreciated. ? If the steering box moves, then you can still centre the wheels, its just that the steering wheel won't be. This is rectified by removing the steering wheel (puller required) and putting it back on right. Are you sure he didn't mean that the track rod (connecting the wheels) was at the end of its adjustment? To get a little toe-out on my 90 I only have one turn of adjustment spare. Removing the steering box drop arm will take mucho violence, so don't touch it until you have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teabag Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 A bit more involved in removing a steering wheel when it's fitted with an air bag, but I don't see why the steering box has any thing to do with tracking, it may be that the steering wheel ends up of off centre but thats it. To centralise the wheel if it's no more than 5 deg out of alignment is carried out by the adjustment of the drag link. I think more info is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 A bit more involved in removing a steering wheel when it's fitted with an air bag, but I don't see why the steering box has any thing to do with tracking, it may be that the steering wheel ends up of off centre but thats it.To centralise the wheel if it's no more than 5 deg out of alignment is carried out by the adjustment of the drag link. I think more info is required. The drop arm hasn't been off the steering box in the past and refitted to the steering box output shaft in the wrong position by any chance has it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 The drop arm can only be fitted in 45-degree increments. With the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, the drop arm should be pointing straight forward too. Unless you have some major wrong with your steering (work box internals, bent drag link, etc), then keeping the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, you can adjust the tracking by juggling adjustments on the steering arm and link rod. If you adjust the steering on just one of the bars, then it's likely that you'll run out of adjustment. To prevent steering wheel misalignment, it's better to lock the steering before adjusting the tracking - that way the wheel will be in the straight ahead position. Only adjustment on the box that I'm aware of is for removing excessive play between the steering wheel and the drop arm. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 Thanks for the help so far. Just to avoid what seems to be a red herring, I'm not talking about the steering wheel. Its the "pushmepullyou" bits underneath that are misaligned. Les has mentioned that one should only adjust tracking by setting the wheel straight and making adjustments in such a manner that both sides are adjusted. Does it follow that a good look and a bit of measuring may confirm a suspicion that 11 years of tyre centre technicians occasionally carrying out adjustments may be the reason there is none left? If that is the case, the remedy may be to undo the track rods, set everything as square as possible and then put it all back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 The link rod has left hand thread one end, and right hand thread the other. By turning the bar - the distance between the rear of the front wheels can be increased or decreased - depending on which way you turn it. The drag link has a right hand thread only, but turning it will pull or push the passenger wheel in or out at the front edge, but moving the rear of the front wheels together in the same direction. If you were to start from scratch, then all TRE's would be screwed fully in (or equal distances out as each other) and then equally adjusted to set the tracking and maintain available adjustment on both rods. Tracking is commonly set by just turning the link rod, but if the steering isn't locked in the straight ahead position - it's inevitable that the steering wheel be put out of line with the 'true' ahead position. I would expect that one of your TRE's is significantly different than the others, in that it'll have more thread showing or significantly less. Each TRE has at least 30mm of adjustment, which adds up to an awful lot at the wheels. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted July 9, 2009 Author Share Posted July 9, 2009 Les - I really appreciate this high quality advice. I'll be underneath it on Saturday morning (looking for the starter motor - see my other thread!!) and start measuring........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 To get the correct alignment of everything from scratch you would: disconnect the steering box to front pitman arm take the rear tie rod off, screw both TRE in to max, then undo them both enough to align and drop in holes. adjust tracking via tie rod, as you rotate the rod the tre's extend out equally on both sides due to left and right threads. lock off tie rod. put steering wheel in straight ahead adjust front tie rod to correct length, to get to pitman arm with wheels straight ahead. As has already been said, the front rod and steering box usually won't need fiddling, it's the rear rod, and the adjustment that has can create loads of wheel angle. To be running out of adjustment either a tre has been adjusted singly or the rod is bent as bent thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
errol209 Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 Perhaps a diagram might help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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