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Refurbished caliper problem


Griffin

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I was wondering if anyone ever had problems with refurbished calipers? I bought my 300tdi discovery with new proffesionally refurbished calipers(sandblasted etc...) and had a slight vibration problem at the beginning when braking down from higher speeds.

It now has gotten to the point where it got so bad that it is almost underivable.......

Now i have changed drag link ball joints and everything else that could possibly be the cause but no difference. No warped discs, they are almost brand new as well as the pads.

I talked to the previous owner and he said that when they sand blasted the calipers the holes that hold the pads became bigger and that this might cause the vibration. Then he told me to put some kind of a sleeve in between which would require some drilling to fit them.

Anyone ever heard of that?

Also i was wondering how you park your land rovers in steep environments without "dropping" it on the gearbox. Whenever i park mine and put it from P to D or R it has to force its way into it and doesn't sounds healthy at all....

Appreciate any help

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Also i was wondering how you park your land rovers in steep environments without "dropping" it on the gearbox. Whenever i park mine and put it from P to D or R it has to force its way into it and doesn't sounds healthy at all....

I know what you mean and I don't like it either but I assume they are meant to release under tension. I don't know what the actual mechanism is.

Personally if leaving mine on a hill I tend to put on the handbrake, let it take up the strain and then put it into park, if you then take it out of park (either to the gear or into neutral) before releasing the handbrake then you don't get that horrible noise when the parking pawl disengages.

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Do you mean the holes for the retaining pins? If so, I don't think that would cause a vibration/shake when under heavy braking - perhaps just a click as the pads bite the disc.

What you describe is more usually no preload/worn swivel bearings/ tracking/wheel balancing.

Les.

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Do you mean the holes for the retaining pins? If so, I don't think that would cause a vibration/shake when under heavy braking - perhaps just a click as the pads bite the disc.

What you describe is more usually no preload/worn swivel bearings/ tracking/wheel balancing.

Les.

yes exactly those, sick thing is that i bought new tires half a year ago, rims are straight, swivel bearings have been taking care of a year ago, track rod ball joints seem to be in very good condition as well.

And it only appears while braking......

either way good to know it might not be the calipers, another guess is the steering damper.......

BogMonster:

sounded a lot better when i did it your way, some people told me that they engage diff lock before parking in steep hills. Didn't really make a difference i thought...

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My GF once engaged 'P' in a Morris Oxford while doing about 20mph* :o Apart from the awful noise there was no apparent damage to the car (can't speak for the driver behind's underpants though!) and the box soldiered on for several thousand more miles before the car went to the scrappy due to rust.

I think they are quite tough :D

*It was a column shift and she was trying to use the indicators. She had a gentle touch, that woman :lol:

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Just because the disks and pads are new doesnt mean they arent "warped".

The usual cause of "warping" is pad deposits sticking to the disks surface, usually from the brakes being held on at a standstill, for example pulling upto a set of lights and keeping the brakes on, when very hot. Its actually quite easy to do this on new disks/pads because the new components while bedding in run a lot hotter than normal.

If that is the cause it will slowly get worse like you describe. You may be able to clear the deposits by properly bedding in the brakes and using them properly, but they may already be too far gone.

If you want to try clearing the deposits give this a go:

Find a quiet streight piece of road with a 60 limit, accellerate the vehicle to 60 ish and brake down to 5 mph, then build up speed again and repeat this process. You want to do this 10 times, each time getting heavier on the pedal. The first stop should be somewhere around "half" and the last few should be near enough full bore. The most important bit during the process is at no point should you stop the vehicle (or lock up the brakes), and once completed, drive it along some fast roads that require little braking to cool the disks back down again (a motorway is ideal). If you HAVE to stop when the brakes havent cooled properly, then you can slow down mostly on the brakes and then release the pedal and use the handbrake to pull up, otherwise you'll risk adding more pad deposits.

You will likely smell hot brakepad towards the end of the 10 stops, but this is to be expected, and as long as you dont get too much fade (ie boiling the fluid) you should be fine. If you do boil the fluid then perhaps it needs changed ;)

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@aragorn: Did as you said and it seems like the vibrations went down like 50%.

After that i kept driving as usual(city, hold car with brakes etc) and they got worse again. So i will change the discs and try to drive properly instead.

Thanks for all your help!

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Fit some new disks and pads

OR

Thrash it some more, and harder, and see if you can clear the deposits.

Does sound like its too far gone though.

Either way, the important bit is that when the brakes are hot, never come to a halt with your foot on the pedal if you can help it. Most normal driving doesn't heat them up that much, but when they're new (first few hundered miles) and if you've been giving hell down a B road or whatever they're likely to be much hotter, and much more susceptible to pad transfer.

Just noticed you have an auto, which means you;ll tend to be harder on the brakes even in normal driving, holding the vehicle at lights is best done on the handbrake rather than holding the footbrake on.

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Also i was wondering how you park your land rovers in steep environments without "dropping" it on the gearbox. Whenever i park mine and put it from P to D or R it has to force its way into it and doesn't sounds healthy at all....

This is how i do it on both manual and auto gearboxes no matter the vehicle brand:

- stop on the incline, foot on the brake pedal

- apply handbrake

- shift to Neutral on autos

- carefully lift the foot from the brake pedal to test the hand brake and let it take the load

- engage Park on autos or a higher gear on manuals

- stop the engine etc.

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i will trash it some more today can't become worse anyways....thought the carpet was a bit wet on the passenger floor.

removed everything and found that the panel had been repaired once, and had now rusted through again...

who in the right mind comes up with the idea of putting out salt in winters??!!

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