jaws602 Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 In the last 2 years i have had 3 new master cylinders, 3 slave cylinders, a new clutch and a new clutch release arm just before christmas. Tonight something has gone again (popped/banged) then the peddle has gone solid(feeling lucky as i did a 150 mile trip yesterday afternoon with my trailer, small 750kg unbreaked with only a bed on it) i had to come home in low range with no clutch, iam getting familliar with this method lately. There is still fluid in the system and no signs of a leak. I am suspecting that the arm has gone as my mate who fitted it would not weld a plate onto the new arm last time because it would mean the warranty on the arm would not be valid. It would have been better that than to have to take the box out again or as he wants to do is take out the TD (never had a problem in 3 years) and fit a 200tdi from a disco that i already have. Any ideas would be most welcome. p.s why is a disco dipstick (missing on my engine)almost 10 times more expensive than the defender item ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 I'd pop the slave cylinder out and have a look inside the hole. You can try gently pressing the clutch pedal with the slave off the box, to see if the hydraulic part of the system works normally, and if it does you know the fault is inside the box. As for the parts consumption, i can only imagine your not using genuine parts (or good replacement ones), and instead using some cheap parts which just arent lasting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 If the pedal went right down, then came up, and is now solid, then the fork pivot point has punched through. Reinforced clutch forks last a lot longer than an ordinary item. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaws602 Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share Posted July 14, 2009 THE FIRST SET OF CYLINDERS THAT I GOT WERE BRITPART ITEMS FROM THE LOCAL SPECIALIST IN MY TOWN. THIS WAS BEFORE I STARTED TO USE PADDOCKS, AS THEY CHARGED ME MORE FOR THE BRITPART SLAVE CYLINDER THAN PADDOCKS CHARGED FOR A LUCAS/TRW MASTER CYLINDER AND THEN DOUBLE AGAIN FOR THE MASTER. THE MASTER CYLINDER ONLY LASTED ABOUT 5/6 MONTH BEFORE IT STARTED TO LEAK AND WAS CHANGED FOR THE TRW ITEM. I MAY BE WRONG SAYING I HAVE HAD 3 CYLINDERS, IT MAY ONLY BE 2 IT JUST FEELS LIKE THERE HAS BEEN MORE WITH THE AMOUNT OF TIMES IT'S GONE WRONG. THE MASTER THAT IS CURRENTLY FITTED IS THE LEAKING BRITPART ITEM AS A TEMPEREY MEASURE TO FIX THE LAST PROBLEM WHICH TURNED OUT TO BE THE TRW MASTER CYLINDER SUCKING IN AIR. THE NEW CLUTCH THAT WAS FITTED DIDN'T NEED DOING AS IT STARTED TO SLIP AGAIN AFTER. IT WAS ACTUALLY THE MASTER CYLINDER THAT MY MATE FITTED HAD NOT BEEN ADJUSTED CORRECTLY SO WAS NOT CLEARING PROPERLEY. THE CLUCH ARM WAS REPLACED JUST BEFORE CHRISTMAS I WANTED IT REINFORCED BUT HE SAID NO IT WOULD NO LONGER BE GAREENTED IF IT WAS FAULTY. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaws602 Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Sorry for shouting i was quickly writing the reply at work and did not relise i had not changed from capitals, as this is what we use for processing orders on the system. I am still waiting for a chance to take the slave cylinder out and have a look, hopefully tonight if it is not raining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaws602 Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 I had a look last night and the slave cylinder works fine when not attached to the arm so it looks like it could be something in side. Either the arm or something else has broken ,bent or become detached. So it looks like another gearbox out job (i think the nuts might aswell be replaced with wingnuts for easy removal ready for next time) or engine change time and do two jobs at once while it's in bits. sorry again for shouting in my earlier post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 I had a look last night and the slave cylinder works fine when not attached to the arm so it looks like it could be something in side. Either the arm or something else has broken ,bent or become detached.So it looks like another gearbox out job (i think the nuts might aswell be replaced with wingnuts for easy removal ready for next time) or engine change time and do two jobs at once while it's in bits. sorry again for shouting in my earlier post. cheers for the explanation, no harm done. get the clutch operating arm beefed up, wouldn't worry about the warranty, sounds like your arm has pushed through at the slavr operating rod recess, a fairly common problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaws602 Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 Thats why i asked him to reinforce it last time but he wouldn't because of the warranty. I would have prefered it to have been done properly the first time instead of having to take the gearbox out again. When i phoned hime today to tell him that the cylinders are ok and that the problem was going to be the arm, i said are we going to use a reinforced version this time he said did we not last time, so i reminded him what he had said last time and he has decided we will fit a stronger version this time. foundry 4x4 do a reinforced kit, is it worth buying this at £13 or buying a standard one and welding a plate onto it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 Reinforce it yourself. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 as above, one of Les's reinforced arms in my 110 been in nearly 2 years with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted July 17, 2009 Share Posted July 17, 2009 as above, one of Les's reinforced arms in my 110 been in nearly 2 years with no problems. I'd hope a normal one would last 2 years - the original one in my landy had been in about 12 years and was only changed because the clutch was being changed. Having said that, i think its definatley a good idea to reinforce them when you have the chance. Why is it only after i've fitted all this stuff that i see what i should have done?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaws602 Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 update i went out yesterday and split the engine and box and the pivot point has pushed straight through the dorm most of the way around the circle of the dorm joint.so definately fitting a reinforced arm this time. the dorm has plenty of grease still on it so that was not the problem. would there be any warranty on the arm as it's only been on 6 months (britpart bought from paddocks),i don't do any heavy towing so no strain has been put on it. is there anything that can be causing extra strain on the arm? i was looking on here and have seen a mod for the clip that holds the push rod in place is this worth doing as the plastic clip on mine had one of the two lugs broken off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy_neutron Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Stating the obvious a bit but even a standard arm should last longer than a couple of years. As for the other parts then you do get cheap carp ens but even they should last. A few simple things to look at ... 1) The shape/ condition of the arm's pivot ball. 2) The clutch not fully disengaging. This can be caused by knackered slave cylinder, master cylinder, Slave cylinder push rods being too long. Or more likely which would explain everything that you are getting is that your short piece of rubber hose down by your slave cylinder has collapsed internally blocking return flow to the master cylinder and releasng debris into the system. I don't suppose your clutch fluid is black ? This would explain you eating clutch parts rapidly. 3) The other thing it could be although unlikely is that you have got a short R380 gearbox on your 200tdi. The reason i say unlikely is cos you don't sound that lucky. The way to tell is that reverse will be below 5th. If this is the case and someone fitted the standard tdi clutch release bearing then the clutch will not fully release and cause endless problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaws602 Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 it's funny you would say about the fluid being black the other month when the master cylinder was sucking air the fluid was grey and had a gritty texture to it so maybe the pipe had been breaking down inside. sorry i wasn't clear about this before but i have a 19j turbo diesel in it with an lt77 gearbox, the 200tdi (disco) i mentioned is a spare engine that i have to go into my 90 when anything goes on this one but so far not had a problem in 3 years only clutch problems. the cylinders that i first put on were both britparts but the second set have been lucas/trw products which i would have thought would be better. i will check on the shape of the pivot the next time i can have a look when it's not raining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Grey fluid - I've had that! It was the alloy of the master cylinder (it was a Lucas item as well). I replaced the master under guarantee (it had only been on there about 6-weeks), and it was fine. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 updatei went out yesterday and split the engine and box and the pivot point has pushed straight through the dorm most of the way around the circle of the dorm joint.so definately fitting a reinforced arm this time. the dorm has plenty of grease still on it so that was not the problem. would there be any warranty on the arm as it's only been on 6 months (britpart bought from paddocks),i don't do any heavy towing so no strain has been put on it. is there anything that can be causing extra strain on the arm? i was looking on here and have seen a mod for the clip that holds the push rod in place is this worth doing as the plastic clip on mine had one of the two lugs broken off? any parts should have a standard 12 months makers warranty on them, got to be worth a phone call to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 any parts should have a standard 12 months makers warranty on them, got to be worth a phone call to find out. indeed, but the chances of getting britpart or paddocks to fork out for a new arm AND the fitting costs due to their part failing.... well, its frankly nill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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