Naks Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Hi all Is this indicative of a problem with the brakes: when I press the brake pedal it is soft with a long-ish travel, but after quick release it is then hard and the D2 slows down quicker? The brake fluid level is normal and no leakages anywhere. My mechanic says there's nothing wrong with them, but am I weird to want more stopping power :? How about something like this: Powerbrake for 4x4's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Or how about changing the brake fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 if your pedal sinks on the first press and then firms up on the second press - something is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 if your pedal sinks on the first press and then firms up on the second press - something is wrong. hmmm, yes, but what? Wrong fluid? Master cylinder? Discs & pads have been checked and nothing wrong there!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Mine's always done that to a certain extent, there is plenty of brake effort there but if you take your foot off the brake and press it again it is more powerful and higher up the travel. Been like that since new as far as I remember, now seven years. Can you lock the wheels (enough to bring ABS in) on dry tarmac with the first press? You should be able to, if you can't then I would worry as you should be able to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 Can you lock the wheels (enough to bring ABS in) on dry tarmac with the first press? You should be able to, if you can't then I would worry as you should be able to. erm, I've never tried. But your observation that it's always been like that - I've also heard the same from another D2 owner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Mine's always done that to a certain extent, there is plenty of brake effort there but if you take your foot off the brake and press it again it is more powerful and higher up the travel. Been like that since new as far as I remember, now seven years. Can you lock the wheels (enough to bring ABS in) on dry tarmac with the first press? You should be able to, if you can't then I would worry as you should be able to. Mines the same also I have spoken to several D2 owners which all of them do it so does the mother inlaws 20k mile D2. On the upgrade front I have EBC pads all round and drilled and groved vented disc's all round as well and have done for about the last 80k I only rally nictice the major improvemnt when I tow fully loaded towing the racer etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naks Posted September 1, 2009 Author Share Posted September 1, 2009 Ok, so after 2 separate landy experts checked out the car, they say the brakes are on par for a D2. However, i have noticed a problem that is getting worse. When I step on the brakes, esp on a slight downhill, the car dives to the left. And I mean dives - the steering wheel even turns to the left. On a level road or uphill this is not noticeable, but any downhill and the steering just yanks to the left when I brake. Anyone ever experienced this or know what this is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted September 3, 2009 Share Posted September 3, 2009 This sounds like a stuck caliper pot on the opposite side to where the car is pulling. Alternatively, there is a significant inefficiency on the opposite side which could be caused by - contaminated disc or pads - badly worn pads (but you should also hear some grinding noises) - failure of a flexible hose, causing it to bulge under pressure - a leak (although you have ruled that out) - loosening of the disc/hub assembly (less likely) The cause should be identified as a matter of urgency and rectified ASAP. Any upgrades should be done in axle pairs, so new discs on both or new pads on both. A straight swap flexible hose or caliper change (or repairing the sticky pot) can be done singly. Fitting a better performing caliper or a steel hose - both. I would also change the entire brake fluid if this has not been done in the last two years and thoroughly bleed the system. Inspect all the brake pipes for any signs of corrosion. (They can weep in a manner that is not noticeable). I recently changed to ERB discs and pads and noticed a real improvement. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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