RichardAllen Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 I want to make a handle with a M10 female thread in it which has to be pretty strong. My plan is to use a 17mm ring spanner and MIG weld an M10 nut into it. Given the different types of steel nuts and spanners are made from, and the finish on the spanner, will this plan work ? All help gratefully received. Regards Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsr341 Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 you shouldnt have much problem with that , try remove some of the crome first weld will take no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 I've welded mole grips, G-clamps etc to things by mistake, so I guess you'll get a good strong weld if you actually mean to do it Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landynut Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 I want to make a handle with a M10 female thread in it which has to be pretty strong. My plan is to use a 17mm ring spanner and MIG weld an M10 nut into it. Given the different types of steel nuts and spanners are made from, and the finish on the spanner, will this plan work ? All help gratefully received. Regards Richard yeah as others say remove chrome before you start welding and if you can put a bolt into nut to stop any weld going on to threads. Should work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Wouldn't you be better off with a bit of 1" box section than ruining a spanner? Would be more confortable in the hand too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clbarclay Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Depends on the spanner, I've known some where the box section would probably cost more. Rolls of spanners can be bought very cheap and are handy when you want to make a "special tool" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest noggy Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 grind the glave off the nut aswell! Having a spanner as a lever is actually pretty cool aswell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naughtyboy Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 i have loads of spanners done this way. mostly for gearbox work most useful one is one with 1/2" square bar for doing boxes and axles on my 110. have also cut spanners in half and welded two back together to cut down number of spanners in need to carry. ie rather than carry two 1/2" combi spaners and two 9/16" cut 1 of each in half and weld open end of one two ring end of other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardAllen Posted August 24, 2009 Author Share Posted August 24, 2009 Thanks guys. The spanner + nut is for securing my hi-lift. I have welded a tray onto the bottom bracket of a Mantec wheel carrier and fixed a bolt through the bodywork above the rear window. The hi-lift base sits in the tray and the bolt goes through the rack near the top. The spanner + nut the goes onto the top bolt and the hi-lift is secure. I could have used a wing nut, but with a ring spanner, I can put a padlock through the rack and handle end of the spanner for security. I have also drilled through the tray and put in a padlock through tray + hi-lift base. Overall the stowage is quite neat (should be, I copied it off a Camel or G4 I saw at Billing). Though I still have to work out how best to stow the adaptor; probably just bolted through the rack. Regards Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disco tony Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Just make sure you allow it to cool naturally, do not quench it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Been here done this and had "Fun" HFH "Stylee" When you weld it up be aware that too much heat will see the thread either disolve or distort, so be carefull For added extra Fun hardening when welded up and red F hot lob said welded spanner into a load of old engine / transfer box oil in a tin (bucket / palstic will melt 'on contact' somehow I know this and you then have an oil hardered version Nige PS Erm it just may "Smoke a bit pop and bang and scare the sh**te out of you" so not in an enclosed space or indoors / anywhere inflamable Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardAllen Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 Just to close this one off, this is how it turned out. The hi-lift sits in a tray welded to the wheel carrier lower bracket and bolted to the chassis. The hi-lift rack is fixed near the top by a bolt though the bodywork with a backing plate and the spanner with a nut welded into it instead of a wing nut. The hi-lift is also padlocked through the base, and the spanner will be padlocked to the rack for extra security when I get round to it. Note that for this solution, I did have to move the fog light. I have also shortened the rack a bit so none of it sticks out, following an earlier post on here where someone caught their hi-lift on a tree while laning. Regards Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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