slave cylinder pushrod

[trooper82]

Hi guys

Any early birds out there who can give me a spot of info?

Clutch went yesterday on my 1990 Def, struggled to get it into gear after a bit of crunching in it went and off I went without lifting the clutch. Anyways after looking at info on here, decided its was either Master or Slave cylinder, so decided to replace both.

Master not a problem thanks to Les and his idiots guide Slave managed to get off, although still struggling to undo pipe (WD40).

My question is should the push rod be very sloppy or is it meant to be like that, i cannot withdraw it from the bell housing.

Many Thanks in anticipation

Jim

[Smokydiesel]

Hi Jim,

From what I can remember, the pushrod should move sort of freely in and out of the bellhousing.

That's because you only move the clutch-fork back and forward while pulling or pusing the pushrod.

Also the rod isn't fixed solid to the fork, so you should also be able to move the rod up and down and right and left etc. etc. (bit like a joystick)

Are you changing the short rubber hose also ? the one running from the slave upwards...

I would change it too because they tend to perish from the inside (thanks again Western...!)

Edwin.

[trooper82]

Edwin

Thanks for info it does move like a joy stick, thats put my mind at rest!!! I thought I may be looking at splitting the gearbox/engine.

I have just tried to reconnect the old pipe work but struggling, think I cross threaded, so of to local motor factors for new pipe, I will see if I can also get rubber pipe as well.

Expensive toys these old 90s, mine looks very similar to yours.

Cheers

Jim

[TheHarv]

afaik the 'ball' end of the rod held into the fork by a plastic clip jobby (the later ones certainly are)... you do NOT want to play with it too much because if it comes unclipped it's a royal pain in the backside to get it back in without pulling the trans

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22909&view=&hl=clip&fromsearch=1

[trooper82]

Thanks for that mate, its all bolted back up now, just awaiting delivery of pipes to connect it up. I found the rubber one was starting to perish as Edwin said.

Dont you just love landys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[trooper82]

Hi guys.

Update and more questions/problems!!!!!!!

Master and slave changed and bled, everything appears ok but;

Still cannot engage gears, if I try grating of metal, even with clutch all the way to floor.

Is this now possibly a thrust bearing issue or clutch?

If it is is it easier taking the whole engine out or sliding it back?

Jim

[Milemarker Type S]

Unfortuntely if you are sure the hydraulic side is all ok the next job is to pull the box out- you may well find that the pivot of the clutch fork has burst though the clutch fork. The easiest way is to slide the gearbox back- ideally with an engine hoist. You can manage without a hoist using jacks and axle stands etc but it is not as easy. I have removed one by hand by removing the transfer box and gearbox separately... fairly sure that this method is not in the manual!

[trooper82]

Thanks for info, oh well as they say sh*#e happens. Best get me overalls on again

[mick110]

Unfortuntely if you are sure the hydraulic side is all ok the next job is to pull the box out- you may well find that the pivot of the clutch fork has burst though the clutch fork. The easiest way is to slide the gearbox back- ideally with an engine hoist. You can manage without a hoist using jacks and axle stands etc but it is not as easy. I have removed one by hand by removing the transfer box and gearbox separately... fairly sure that this method is not in the manual!

On my 110 & recently my sons 90 same problem....maybe clutch fork[if the accountants would allow a forged steel item there'd be no probs....BUT in british industry they know more than mere engineers !!!!!!?]....I fear though it's possibly the cheap plastic release bearing guide jamming{note how the Japs tend to upspec. thier components & so have long lived reliable vehicles =good reputation=repeat sales ....but our accoutants know best }

[ThreeSheds]

On my 110 & recently my sons 90 same problem....maybe clutch fork[if the accountants would allow a forged steel item there'd be no probs....BUT in british industry they know more than mere engineers !!!!!!?]....I fear though it's possibly the cheap plastic release bearing guide jamming{note how the Japs tend to upspec. thier components & so have long lived reliable vehicles =good reputation=repeat sales ....but our accoutants know best }

Sorry this is OT, but your accountants rant struck a cord (chord? Maybe I should have said 'nerve') - I heard a story of an electronics cooling fan which was designed to be held on with four screws - so, to 'save money', a DVD manufacturer only put two screws in (diagonally opposite). The number of units returned tripled due to noisy fans (which were fixed by adding the screws that should have been there in the first place) but returns didn't count as production defects (after all it was being made as specc'd) so they carried on making them.

And I bought one!

And I fixed it