TheBeastie Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Managed to finally get all the nuts off and removed the old propshaft. Front bolts were a mix of sizes but have proper to replace so OK there, but the back bolts appear to equally be a mix - one has a 45 degree bit cut off presumably to ease "new" bolt in. The nuts I purchased do not seem to have the same thread and I sense not worth forcing it. Either I try to fit the old nuts or what I would prefer is to try and remove the flange off the transfer box and replace with a full set of new "proper" bolts and matching new nylock nuts. However it looks quite scary and I wonder if anyone can give some rapid detailed instruction??? I am quite happy to drain the transfer box but a tad nervous of just undoing the hige central nut (assiming I can!!) incase everything goes ping! Current state of play is I have the right end of the new propshaft fitted to the front axle with nuts just loosely on to stop it falling off and braining me. Meanwhile not sure how best to proceed so will bury head in sand and take Rolo for a walk in the hope that someone with more knowledge than me might be able to respond before I get back A huge thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 First thing. The prop bolts are special to Land Rover. ie Dealer only. They are 3/8 UNF...... The bolts should be fitted through the flange. This makes it easier to undo the nuts. It's not as easy to undo a bolt as it is a nut in a nut and bolt fitting. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 Thanks mike I got new nuts & bolts 3/8 UNF from Craddocks when i got new prop. The front ones were bolt in from back through prop shaft then flange with nut to front - i.e. easy! The back ones are running with thread of bolt pointing forwards - i.e. bolt head trapped behind flange with prop shaft to go over the bolt - and hence my problem. To be fair the manual suggests they are meant to be this way but not sure if for any good reason. Could i try to hacksaw bolts out (not much room) and then fit new bolts pointing back the way with nuts behind the flange? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Thanks mike I got new nuts & bolts 3/8 UNF from Craddocks when i got new prop. The front ones were bolt in from back through prop shaft then flange with nut to front - i.e. easy! The back ones are running with thread of bolt pointing forwards - i.e. bolt head trapped behind flange with prop shaft to go over the bolt - and hence my problem. To be fair the manual suggests they are meant to be this way but not sure if for any good reason. Could i try to hacksaw bolts out (not much room) and then fit new bolts pointing back the way with nuts behind the flange? you can remove the flange without any problems of bits falling off inside,the bolts are head facing rearwards because if they are head forward the nuts/bolt tail could foul the transfer box casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 Thanks western So do I just undo that big central nut and the flange comes off or are there other bits to come off too? It looks like it might be a 27mm or 30mm (which would be good since I now have sockets that size ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 just the big central nut, then pull the flange off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 Got a 30mm socket onto it but it feels like Godzilla tightened it on a bad day! Will have to try and get more leverage on tomorrow. Am I likely to end up with EP90 all over me when it eventually shifts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I didn't when I changed the seal on my old [now gone] transfer box a while ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 Thanks. At least I will not need to put a snorkel on then Having just re-read the thread can I confirm that where the prop joins with the front diff that it is OK for the nuts to be on the diff side of the flange, as they were on mine, or do I need to get that flange off too really so that the heads are between the flange and the diff. I have tried looking at the parts manual and it is not clear on the pictures. Why does life seem to get so complex, or is it just getting too late at night! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Get a long bit of flat bar& drill a couple of holes to match the bolts sticking out of the flange slip this over the prop shaft bolts and use the bar to prevent the flange turning then you can let your biggest gorilla loose on the M20 nut holding the flange onto the output shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 Thanks Mike I had thought of putting the diff lock on since if that works for securing the flange to undo the little bolts I thought it would also work for trying to undo the big monster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 13, 2009 Author Share Posted September 13, 2009 Completely unable to move it. Not enough room underneath for monster lever that would be needed and have no imact tools. I think I will have to try and reuse the old nuts to get mobile and then see if I can get a garage or someone at least with a high lift platform so that can get under and get some proper leverage onto it. Once it is off then I can put in the proper bolts and new nuts. My thinking is that as long as I change the bolts and nuts as a priority then I ought to be OK??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 You can just leave the propshaft off - you only need one to be able to drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy2986 Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Hi, If you can put a long breaker bar on the nut put a trolly jack under the bar then when you lift the jack on the end of the bar it should undo the nut. (worked for me) Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Homba Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 Hi mate i have a set of ramps you can borrow it would give you another foot underneath or you could remove the drivers floor and get access from above for a longer bar . cheers Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 I had a bolt that had no thread on it coming from the gearbox and just ground/cut the bolt off and put the bolt through in the other way. It doesn't (shouldn't) alter distance with articulation, so if it doesn't foul and it appears they don't, then it's fine. Advantage to swapping them to bolts coming from propshaft side is that it's easy to replace bolts as well as nuts when you want, I used to use mine until showing any sign of wear and then new ones - not worth the aggro of trying to get rounded bolts or nuts off a propshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBeastie Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 To conclude the thread can now report that the job is done. We got The Beastie up on a big lift and were then able to get a proper leverage on the 30mm socket which shifted it nicely. Proper bolts now in place and it all cleaned up nicely as a bonus. The new prop shaft seems to be giving a more positive feel in the drive train which must be a good thing! Next step is to put an X-Brake on the back but that prop shaft looks in better nick than the front one was. Anyway thanks a million to all who offered help and support Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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