lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 How do i remove the star shaped bolts on the top steering joint so that I can replace the shaft on my 110 defender 2003.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 with the correct star torx drive tool. I don't know the size of the star torx head, so cannot advise on exactly which drive tool you need to obtain or borrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 thanks for the reply. Can this tool be bought in padocks???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 to change the top joint how do i do it???, because the nut have only tighting threads on the collapsable part of the steering shaft.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Can you add a picture of the subject joint, just so we're talking about the same item, as for the tool, you'll have to find out hat size star is required before ordering one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 as soon as I can figure out how to load a pic i will// Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I think he means the top steering U/J on the column, in the engine bay. When I changed mine I undid the two clamp bolts and beat the joint off with a bit of wood and a hammer. Refitting is the reverse of removal...as they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 the only problem is the clamp bolts are only designed to close and not open Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Really? If the nut tightens down when turned one way it should un-tighten when turned the other? Unless it's been changed for a non-standard fitting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 the head of the bolt only has a grip for tightening. ???? Unless you know of a special tool to reverse it . I have a pic but i cannot figure out how to add it to forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Looks like some sort of anti-vandal bolt? If you can't undo it, then out with the grinder I'd say. May be difficult getting it in there, got a Dremel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 What is a Dremel ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 Isn't that a special bolt head? Commonly known as mullered or fubared. You can buy a special tool to remove it called an angle grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 A Dremel is a rotary tool, they do cutting discs for it and due to it's small size it can fit where an angle grinder can't. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dremel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 thanks..........has anyone ever worked with this kind bolt.It is on the opening clamp. I need to change it because there is a lot of play on the top joint.Should I try and change the joint or the full shaft? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 looks like a well damaged flanged hex bolt head, later vehicles use the flanged hex head bolts like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 Thanks Western. They are not damaged they have never been opened..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 The bolt i an talking about is on the collapsible joint on the shaft. (Picture 2) The picture is not great I know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 is there another way of changing the top steering joint without breaking the shaft in two.??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 23, 2009 Author Share Posted September 23, 2009 i found a part on Rimmer brothers but it does not have any joint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 i found a part on Rimmer brothers but it does not have any joint the Left hand photo is a Defender part the Right hand photo is a RR & Discovery part if you mean the screws in the circular part of your joint, I believe these are factory formed rivets & are not removable or the screw into the captive nuts. on the Defender shaft the UJ's are replacable & secured to the shaft with pinch bolts & nuts. I think I've found the star head bolts on this shaft as in your vehicle [see photo below] looks to be a anti-tamper bolt, so may not be removable 7 the complete shaft has to be replaced, as per the Discovery part above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted September 23, 2009 Share Posted September 23, 2009 I think we're getting somewhere now... The top section (joint, flexible coupling and shaft) is all one piece, and the replacement should be the whole assembly. The bottom UJ is separate and replaceable on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lorca Posted September 24, 2009 Author Share Posted September 24, 2009 thanks for the advice.......much appreciated... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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