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Alternator


Harrod

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Evening all

After a rather emotional drive 130 miles with no alternator (well, it was there in spirit!) i need to find a new one! can anyone tell me if the one listed on lrseries as AMR4247 is the right one? its picture shows it with the serpentine belt of a 300tdi. the one i need has the hinge type mounts at the top, the bolt to the adjuster on the bottom, and 2 studs for wires, one with 2 thicker brown wires on, 10 mm spanner job and one with one brown and yellow strip wire, 7 mm spanner.

Also, am i likely to have damaged anything else running it on an alternator thats dying/dead?

thanks for your help!

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I'd have expected a 200tdi to have a Lucas A127 type alternator.

The orientation of the lugs doesn't really matter, especially if you're desperate. Just undo the three long bolts that hold the alternator together, and rotate an end-housing until you have the configuration you need.

What kind of dead is it? Often it's just failed brushes or the regulator, both of which are housed in the regulator pack on an A127, and can easily be replaced, the cost of a new pack is about 12 quid. see here

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I have a 100amp alt from a 300TDi Disco on my Defender spec 200Tdi, IIRC the body was realigned to put the 2 short bolts on the bottom & the adjuster link on the top left when viewed from the front of the alternator, the Vee belt pulley will fit in place of the Serp belt pulley.

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well it started the other night with a bit of light squeeling (read howling like a dying banshee) and i thought it might be the belt, so halfords was raided and a new belt fitted. no squeeling, however when i switched the truck off the alternator light came on and stayed on when i removed the keys. somethings not right! took it to the local garage to be informed that its probably the diodes in it stuffed. makes sense says i, and its still showing 13.4v so i risked it for a biscuit and set off home. now the light is on, although dimly, when the ignition is on, the voltage has dropped to about halfway on the guage (thanks, land rover, for not putting numbers on the piggin guage!) but isn't dropping any more so i think it must still be kicking out some charge.

The photos i've found of the a127 look more like the one on there, so i might get a repair kit and give it a go. gotta be better than 90 odd quid, and if it'll give me some time for pay day to come round!

i do also have a 300tdi engine sat in the workshop waiting for fitting to my 110, might look and see if that can be rotated into place, although again the pulley will have to be changed, and i'm sure the wiring wont match but that, also, might be worth a go. i'll just have to charge teh battery before i leave and make sure its light when i come home!

edit: this i believe is the A127 and look very similar to the one i've got : clicky[/url

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The photos i've found of the a127 look more like the one on there, so i might get a repair kit and give it a go. gotta be better than 90 odd quid, and if it'll give me some time for pay day to come round!

For what it's worth, my 'new' alternator was £20-25, is an 80 amp one (up from 45/65 amp), and came with a warranty.

Much easier that screwing around with changing diodes/regulators.

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cheers for the info, i'm gonna look at the 300tdi alternator tonight and see if i can graft it on. I've seen some posts refering to beefing up the charging wire, one said to run it from the alternator to the starter motor, and one said you can go straight to the battery. i think i'd prefer the battery method if i can, sounds easier for access etc. is this correct?

ta!

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Much easier that screwing around with changing diodes/regulators.

Really? Changing the regulator pack (which contains all the electronics & the brushes) is, from memory, a two-bolt job and can be done in-situ. In fact MikeTomcat did it in-situ at membury services a week or two ago :ph34r:

The voltmeter probably has an expanded scale so when it drops to half way you're probably just down to the charge left in the battery - which is OK in a TDi by day as they don't need electric to run, but you may find it stops when you turn your lights on!

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When i tried to change the regulator/diode pack on the old transit's A127 alternator i needed to desolder the 6 leads from the stator, and solder them to the new one.

Refitted it all and got a nice shower of sparks when i tried to refit the battery cables.

Turns out the actual fault was the stator had shorted out like a goodun, and they dont come in the rebuild kit!

I think the brushes can be done with it all bolted up, but the regulator/diodes are a stripdown job.

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Well i'd just like to say that once again the knowledge present on this forum shines through!

I grafted a 300tdi alternator on today, with a minimum of bad language too :D and i'm now back up and running.

So thankyou, once again to all that helped! and if it turns out the parts i've ordered will fix the old alternator i will just have to graft it on to provide charging for my winch battery!

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When i tried to change the regulator/diode pack on the old transit's A127 alternator i needed to desolder the 6 leads from the stator, and solder them to the new one.

I think the brushes can be done with it all bolted up, but the regulator/diodes are a stripdown job.

The regulator's in the brush pack. The diodes are just diodes. You're right about having to strip the alternator down and get the soldering iron out to replace them though.

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