RaDi90Hybrid Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Hi All I have just replaced my hybrid 90 with a Discovery 300TDi Commercial after some low-life went walkies with it! On removing the load cover and rubber sponge-mat I found evidence of the dreaded metal worm as I was expecting! I am looking for any assistance I can get with this job as it is a little worse than I had at first thought. I was expecting to have to replace the centre section but this has gone a little further than that, onto the wheel arches and to the front too. , , . The cross braces appear to be fairly well eaten away too. I have done some welding before and I also have a few friends who can help out too .I have been through a great deal of the forums and can find loads of posts on the sills (which look to be in reasonable condition but I am sure that will change when I have a proper dig about!) but nothing on the boot floor. I thought I would remedy that by posting a blow-by-blow account of how it was attempted. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barmiebrumie Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 if you go onto my facebook photos you can see lots of photos of bootfloor welding John http://www.facebook.com/home.php?ref=home#/album.php?aid=27192&id=1195252230&ref=mf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daftpooly Posted November 11, 2009 Share Posted November 11, 2009 Have a look here http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/TechnicalDIBootFloorReplacement.htm I rapidly learnt the art of welding when I done mine a few weeks ago, quite easy really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted November 12, 2009 Share Posted November 12, 2009 Not a Discovery, but it will give you an idea of how we overcame the rotten side sections on my Range Rover... Rear Floor and Crossmember replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaDi90Hybrid Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 I knew I could rely on you lot to come up with the assistance needed! Daftpooley, that is an excellent writeup! Along with Orange's post about the sides I should be able to make a start soon, I will keep it open to let you know how it goes. Thanks all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted November 21, 2009 Share Posted November 21, 2009 Hello Make sure and check all the other areas that might have rust and holes ie chassis and outriggers are patched up when the old floor is out. I had thought about a bolt in floor but that didn't happen. It would have been useful but I was not sure about MOT issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaDi90Hybrid Posted November 23, 2009 Author Share Posted November 23, 2009 Cheers Bushwacker, I have not got as far as stripping it out yet due to other problems with family vehicles! Daughters KA failed on a rusty outer sill on Wednesday so I had to weld that up at the weekend! I know it is not LR related but a bit of advice if you will, fed some 1.5mm plate in through hole and welded it up so that I can fill later and it won't show too much. Does anybody know if this is acceptable? If it had not failed already the tester would be hard pushed to find it. Somebody then said it would only be acceptable if it was 'seam welded' on the outside, is this the case? Ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurvware Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Ive just bought my first disco and first landrover. I new about some of the problems but whilst attempting to fit a new rear crossmember I removed the the rear interior and that the floor had been replaced and riveted in. I deceided to remove this just to check the condition underneath and see how good of a job the previous owner did. There are 3 supports including the front and rear supports for the floor and 2 straps. The straps had not been refitted and were just sagged down and will no doubt had started to rattle at a later stage. I've decided to remove these completly as they are pretty rotten at the edges and thought I would refit the floor with rivets to allow easier replacement later on and if the floor begins to sag I will fit more box section supports latter. As the repairs have progressed the state of the bodywork has become more apparent and the disco has more holes than a cheese grater. Also look under the iner wing carpets for rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 24, 2009 Share Posted November 24, 2009 Cheers Bushwacker, I have not got as far as stripping it out yet due to other problems with family vehicles! Daughters KA failed on a rusty outer sill on Wednesday so I had to weld that up at the weekend! I know it is not LR related but a bit of advice if you will, fed some 1.5mm plate in through hole and welded it up so that I can fill later and it won't show too much. Does anybody know if this is acceptable? If it had not failed already the tester would be hard pushed to find it. Somebody then said it would only be acceptable if it was 'seam welded' on the outside, is this the case? Ta Yes, continuous seam welded is the only acceptable repair in this situation -you shoul dbe able to do this quite easily though, just run around the inside of the hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 If you run a continuous seam weld around the hole, the MoT tester won't really be able to tell whether the patch is over the top or underneath - especially if you are going to fill and paint afterwards... If he does ask any more questions, just tell him it's butt welded!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaDi90Hybrid Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Spoke to a bonifide tester today and he said to me that as long as the seatbelt anchors are solid and there are no holes for gas to get in then rivets are fine as it has a seperate chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaDi90Hybrid Posted November 28, 2009 Author Share Posted November 28, 2009 Yes, continuous seam welded is the only acceptable repair in this situation -you shoul dbe able to do this quite easily though, just run around the inside of the hole? Tried this, not very well though! Ended up having to put a patch on the outside in the end but thanks for the info (I MUST improve my welding!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 I went to the local college a couple of winters ago. One evening a week for ten weeks, mig , stick, gas and tig. Once we had all done a bit on each type, we were allowed to practice on our favourite as much as we liked. Cost me £60. Most colleges do these courses, especially in the winter. Try this link to find one near you................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige90 Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Spoke to a bonifide tester today and he said to me that as long as the seatbelt anchors are solid and there are no holes for gas to get in then rivets are fine as it has a seperate chassis. Likewise. After a chat with my MOT man I used a sheet of chequer bonded in with sikaflex and rivets. Ali box section bonded in to replace the underribs. I did repair the area extending up into the wheel arch with welded in plates though. Would have replaced the floor with a proper panel but having done a couple for customers I've been unimpressed with the thickness and quality and I'm too tight to fork out for a genuine Land Rover item ( if indeed available). And the chequer plate was free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaDi90Hybrid Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 I went to the local college a couple of winters ago. One evening a week for ten weeks, mig , stick, gas and tig. Once we had all done a bit on each type, we were allowed to practice on our favourite as much as we liked. Cost me £60. Most colleges do these courses, especially in the winter. Try this link to find one near you................. Cheers for that, just tried at Bracknell, yes they do a course, no I can't enroll on-line. Have to ring them later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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