110 Dom Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 My 110 V8 CSW has been of the road for a few years. The engine top end rebuild in now finished and running sweet.....yipeeee. At the moment I can't drive it as the clutch is not working. After investigation a seized clutch cylinder was found. I think its the master cylinder? The pushrod will not move, there is a circlip which I have removed but the disc under the circlip looks larger than the hole, possibly is a pressed in part? Please see attached pics. Any suggestions for best plan of attack? Service part...how? Replace item with a new one? It does say on the casting "Girling" and a number that is hard to read but looks like "BS10" Looking in Paddock's they sell slave cylinders and master cylinders of standard type and "Lucas Girling" type. If my best option is to replace which is the correct part and would Paddocks be best? Any help greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 I have just purchased a Lucas TRW master cylinder from Paddocks for the princly some of £29 I think it was, plus the dreaded. Its a very nice piece of kit, and I can recommend. Im sure plenty of people here will be along to join me in saying dont buy ***tpart, although I personally have never had an issue with Britpart stuff. *I have no links to Paddocks, Im just a saitisifed customer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 fit a new part, LucasGirling or APLockheed are the best to go for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 It's not a pressed in part, but may appear so. Once the circlip is removed, the only thing preventing the inner collar from coming out os corrosion of the master body outside of the circlip. Lucas items are relativley cheap, so it's just as well to replace the whole thing. If the cylinder won't compress, then there's likely to be internal corrosion anyway. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted November 16, 2009 Author Share Posted November 16, 2009 With a bit of screwdriver persuasion the collar came out but the piston inside was solid with corrosion....looks like a new one would be best. Would you agree the pictures show this is a master cylinder and not a slave cylinder?? Thanks Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Definitely a clutch master cylinder. The slave has no reservoir. It might be worth checking the slave as well, as it might in a similar condition. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5 power Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 also to add to the above, the new master cylinder will kill the old slave fairly quickly. For a few extra pounds i would replace the master and slave cylinders with good quality girling parts and whilst your there changing the flexi hose as well because these can perish and cause problems. matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 Thanks for the advice, new Master and Slave cylinders have now been ordered from Paddocks and should be here in 1-2 days. No doubt I will find the next problem soon from a vehicle that has been stood for a few years but hopefully I am almost there! can't wait! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Did you specify Lucas Girling or Genuine parts? If you didn't then they are likely to send you Britpart items. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 Yep gone for the genuine parts which were quite a bit more expensive, £49 verses £28 I did toy with getting the cheaper ones but thought the more expensive ones may hopefully be better quality??? Sorry dont know much about 'new part' quality, would the cheaper ones have been poor and more likely to not stand up to the test of time? Any feedback may tell me if I am always better to go for the more expensive parts or if cheaper Britpart are OK? Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markyboy Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Yep gone for the genuine parts which were quite a bit more expensive, £49 verses £28 I did toy with getting the cheaper ones but thought the more expensive ones may hopefully be better quality??? Sorry dont know much about 'new part' quality, would the cheaper ones have been poor and more likely to not stand up to the test of time? Any feedback may tell me if I am always better to go for the more expensive parts or if cheaper Britpart are OK? Dom Hi Dom, welcome to the forum. 99% of people on here would probably advise against Britpart, they don't have a good reputation. However, you don't always have to go for the most expensive "genuine" option. Look for OEM next to the item that you're buying, (assuming you're internet shopping). It means that the parts are manufactured to Original Equipment standard, or are in fact manufactured by a company that sells Original Equipment parts to Land Rover. These parts are usually cheaper than genuine but of a reasonable quality. Happy Land Rovering. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Had a Britpart brake master cylinder fail on me whilst bleeding the brakes -needless to say they got a very cross phone call from me... I wouldn't use them for anything safety critical full stop. (Not wishing to turn it into yet another Britpart bashing thread, but this has special significance I think...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted November 17, 2009 Share Posted November 17, 2009 Had a Britpart brake master cylinder fail on me whilst bleeding the brakes -needless to say they got a very cross phone call from me... I wouldn't use them for anything safety critical full stop. (Not wishing to turn it into yet another Britpart bashing thread, but this has special significance I think...) Im also not wishing to turn this into another Britpart bashing thread, but I also would never buy anything from them for Safety related items. I wouldnt say Clutch was safety particuarly, but I'd also advise against. I personally have never had a problem with a Britpart part, but lots of people have. Theres a lot of Britpart on my 88, even down to the HD clutch thats been in 2 years and had a TDi running through it. Was it £48 the lot or just the master? I'm sure my master was only 29 (genuine) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110 Dom Posted November 17, 2009 Author Share Posted November 17, 2009 Yep, £49 was for both the slave cylinder, master cylinder and postage. From the feedback I am glad I went for the genuine parts. Will be fitted tomoz and yet a step closer to being ready Next problem identified is corroded blowing exhaust but thats another topic!! Cheers guys Dom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 18, 2009 Share Posted November 18, 2009 I'd say £49 for both inc postage is cheap. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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