Jump to content

Chassis swap.


GUYZER90

Recommended Posts

Hi folks,

Next year ive got to do a chassis swap on a series 3 safari LWB , the chap im doing it for has been told that you can lift the body off in 1 piece once the front wings etc have been removed, was just wondering if any of you have done it this way, if so how easy was it.

Or is it a total strip down.

Be greatfull for any advice you guys can offer. :)

Regards Guy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Done it on a SWB Hardtop a few years ago, got to do it sometime soon on a LWB Safari,

Currently we've got a new galv chassis sitting next to the old vehicle just needs the body lifting over - just haven't had time to go and help.

You can remove doors easy enough etc, but it doesn't have to be done. I'll let you know how well it goes when we eventually get it done, it's been sat waiting since Feb.

The bulkhead holds alot of weight so may be worth removing.

Also have you got some way of lifting the body?

We are hoping to use a Hiab to do the safari.

The SWB was fun, we removed the body by using a friends JCB to lift it off (straps through door openings) We then dropped that onto a trailer. We then moved anything required onto the new chassis over a couple of months. Once complete we needed to put the body on but no longer had access to the JCB, we ended up pushing the trailer up to the rolling chassis then lifting the body up and putting railway sleepers across supported on oil drums, then pushed the trailer out and the chassis in then lowered it down.

Hope this helps a little!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, and I am in the middle of doing it, I'd strip it. Its surprising how heavy everything is, the bulkhead especially surprises everyone, I removed the pedal boxes and the dash when it was removed. If you're going to the expense of a £1300 chassis swap, you'd be daft not to do a £100 seal swap aswell. The seals in my 88's hardtop are all leaking again, and its the perfect chance to do them all, screen top and bottom, tub tops, roof bottoms - all of them.

If you do lift off complete, then yes, keep the doors shut! Make sure your sills are in good shape first, along with the mounting points on the bottom of the bulkhead and Tub. My sills were badly corroded in the bottom of the second row door, and I dont think they'd have stayed the right shape if we lifted it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can do it that way, but you'd be amazed at how much corrosion the body mounts have. This can only be tackled if you take the body off in sections, repairing areas like the tub's rear cross member and front mountings, floor supports, the sills, the bulkhead and the radiator panel as you go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This may help:

Trev had dome his prep well - soaked all the nuts & bolts with WD40 for a week, had all new fasteners, bushes, etc. on hand so anything stubborn or just knackered could be cut off & replaced (far faster than trying to free & then re-use 20+ year old bits). Spending some cash on new bits not only makes the job much faster & easier but gives a nicer finish too.

Off the top of my head, other bits to replace include: brake pipes, hoses, cables, through-chassis wiring, associated clips & clamps, exhaust if it's less than perfect as they're peanuts to buy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy