isbjorn Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 Hi. Just checking if anyone know a good land rover repair guy in or around zurich in Switzerland. I need to do a (don't know whats its called in english) alignments of the front wheels/body. Since the 110 is very unstable/shaky in speeds over 90km/h. Or does anyone else have any tips except straighten the wheels with weights and align them properly? Its a bit oversize wheels but they should not make such a shaky ride i think. maybe not the right country for the questions but you never know. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 This might help: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26532&st=0entry419578 No need to pay people that rarely know how to use their equipment that way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted November 23, 2009 Share Posted November 23, 2009 I don't think the problem will be because of wheel alignment - check a few other things first: Check wheel balancing Panhard rod bushes - get down at the front of the car and take a look at the panhard rod while someone moves the steering wheel from side to side - if there is any movement in the rubber bushes, get them changed as this will make the car shakey and unstable at speed. Check for play in ball joints on the drag link and track rod ends. Check the pre-load on the swivel housings. Can't help with any mechanics in your area, but all of these can be checked and repaired easily enough if you have a few tools and don't mind getting your hands dirty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 Thanks Ive already changed the left ball joint since it was worn out. But Ill check the rest of the tips tomorrow. What do you mean with preload on swivel housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted November 25, 2009 Author Share Posted November 25, 2009 hmm, found this after some searching.. Take the wheel off and the trackrods etc., remove the bolts holding the oil seal in place, remove the seal and undo the 2 bolts holding the top pin in, work it out, remove shims as reqd and do up again, check preload with a spring balance in the trackrod hole etc.etc. I suppose you are meant to drain the swivel housing but I normally put a tray under it and top up as required. Since I haven't got a workshop for the moment it seems a bit complicated to do on the parking lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted November 25, 2009 Share Posted November 25, 2009 even with everything else set to factory spec if the steering damper is kaput you will get 'shimmmy' which comes back through the steering wheel shaking it left to right. wheel alignment - tracking - will have more effect on handling going into and around corners If its just wheel vibration I'd start with balancing the wheels , what are you running with what wheels? cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 hmm, found this after some searching.. Take the wheel off and the trackrods etc., remove the bolts holding the oil seal in place, remove the seal and undo the 2 bolts holding the top pin in, work it out, remove shims as reqd and do up again, check preload with a spring balance in the trackrod hole etc.etc. I suppose you are meant to drain the swivel housing but I normally put a tray under it and top up as required. Since I haven't got a workshop for the moment it seems a bit complicated to do on the parking lot. Think it might need to be checked with the caliper removed as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Since I haven't got a workshop for the moment it seems a bit complicated to do on the parking lot. There's a Do It Yourself garage in Zurich where you can use their tools, including a lift, for 16 Euro/h: http://www.do-it-yourself-garage.ch/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Well the steering damper might be a good guess. It looks quite worn. The turning and corner taking is no problem, the vibrations is more like Old hand said. Steering wheel shaking right to left. How heavy (resistance) should the damper be/have if I remove it and compress it by hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 The steering damper is put there to dampen the occasional violent moves of the steering elements in off road situations due to external factors acting on the wheels, not to prevent the vibrations or whatever is wrong with the wheels or front axle when going on road. When on road, the vehicle should drive perfectly without a steering damper fitted. Blaming the damper would be like blaming yourself for not taking a stronger pain killer when you smash a finger with a hammer. In this case, the damper will work on the effect, not on the cause and it certainly can't be the cause. Even with the strongest steering damper the vibration/wobble will still be there only dampened (smaller amplitude). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Okay, my mistake. Ill get back to you when Ive checked the car properly.. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 .....sorry but in my experience the steering damper has to be in good working order for road use as well, especially if your wheel/tyre combination is non std - offset wheels + bigger, heavier tyres = wheel shimmy if its not in spec..... a quick check on the kingpin adjustment is to jack up front one side at a time and put an axle stand under the axle , grab the wheel top and btm and see if there is any play by rocking up and down, if there is with an assistant doing it you can look uder to see if its the swivel moving on the chrome/black ball that diy garage sounds like a good bet cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 The steering damper is put there to dampen the occasional violent moves of the steering elements in off road situations due to external factors acting on the wheels, not to prevent the vibrations or whatever is wrong with the wheels or front axle when going on road. When on road, the vehicle should drive perfectly without a steering damper fitted. Blaming the damper would be like blaming yourself for not taking a stronger pain killer when you smash a finger with a hammer. In this case, the damper will work on the effect, not on the cause and it certainly can't be the cause. Even with the strongest steering damper the vibration/wobble will still be there only dampened (smaller amplitude). I think you are right. If there are faults in the steering, then a good damper may mask them and a failing damper may not. However, even if the damper is failing the vehicle should be fine on the road and it is the fault in the steering and not the damper that needs repairing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 You may find out that your steering shake is caused by a little bit of everything listed above, as it all wears out eventually and regularly... In my experience, I've found that worn panhard rod bushes cause a more regular 'shake'- it will always happen and not set off by anything in particular, and will cause the car to drift on the road, particularly when you catch the side draught as you overtake trucks etc on the motorway. Loose swivels tend to cause a wobble when you drive over a pothole or bumpy bit of road, which can get quite violent Wheels out of balance will cause a vibration in a narrow speed range. not based on anything scientific or that I have read nor nothing, just what I've noticed from previous personal faults. Checking the swivel preload doesn't take long, and you dont need to undo the oil seal unless you want to do it perfectly. Undo the ball joint and see how easily the hub moves - it needs to have some resistance, perhaps hard to move with your little finger? Anyone got a better description than that or worked out the resistance with seal and caliper attached??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 You may find out that your steering shake is caused by a little bit of everything listed above, as it all wears out eventually and regularly... In my experience, I've found that worn panhard rod bushes cause a more regular 'shake'- it will always happen and not set off by anything in particular, and will cause the car to drift on the road, particularly when you catch the side draught as you overtake trucks etc on the motorway. Loose swivels tend to cause a wobble when you drive over a pothole or bumpy bit of road, which can get quite violent Wheels out of balance will cause a vibration in a narrow speed range. not based on anything scientific or that I have read nor nothing, just what I've noticed from previous personal faults. Checking the swivel preload doesn't take long, and you dont need to undo the oil seal unless you want to do it perfectly. Undo the ball joint and see how easily the hub moves - it needs to have some resistance, perhaps hard to move with your little finger? Anyone got a better description than that or worked out the resistance with seal and caliper attached??? Whe we are building/re-building the swivels in the first place, would it be a good idea to adjust the pre-load correctly, then re-assemble, caliper and oil seal but not TRE then remeasure what the pre-load is reassembled. That would surely give a reference figure for checking at a later date like now without removing everything? Not a lot of use to the OP, but something to bear in mind perhaps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Preload should be checked with the wiper seal not attached (but placed in position over the ball), and with the TREs removed from the arm(s). Wheels off too, obviously Technically the brake flexi pipe should be removed too, but I doubt that will provide much resistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 If its just wheel vibration I'd start with balancing the wheels , what are you running with what wheels Well here are the tires. Nothing extreme but the might be a bit off balance. I havent had time to work with the car. But ill get back to you guys when I have. Thanks for all the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isbjorn Posted December 9, 2009 Author Share Posted December 9, 2009 Well, after replacing both left side wheel bearings, tightening the front arm connecting to the steering damper and straighten all wheels. It now runs like charm. And for workshop in zurich I can recommend Jak Bösch. They where friendly and had okay prices for being in switzerland. thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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