hoss1720 Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Im in the process of changing my 19j engine to a 200 tdi. Ive got every thing disconected(I think)but the engine just does not want to separate from the gear box. im pretty sure ive got all the nuts removed(even the 2 just above the slave cylinder. exactly how many nuts/bolts are there?what am I missing all suggestions greatly received Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
show Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Have you taken the gear box tunnle and the floor plates of so you can see all round the bell houseing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffernutter Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 I did that job about 18 months ago. In my case it was just brute force! Have you taken the floor out - it's a lot easier to see all the nuts/bolts and to manoeuvre the new engine back in and onto the gearbox. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoss1720 Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 ive removed 12 nuts/bolts and cant see any more. I havent removed the tunnel. it just wont budge for some reason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirkthe1 Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 id take the tunnel off as you have probably missed one-is there any gap at all? remember the g box will drop down when they disconnect. also, if all else fails, hit it with a big hammer!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoss1720 Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 ive been out and had another look,cant see any more anywhere. absolutley no gaps,its rock solid. I will take off the tunnel tomorrow. If I havent missed one ,what else is it likely to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Just counted the studs on my old TD - there are 11 to undo around the bellhousing to free it up. It is all clear of the engine mounts isnt it or gearbox mounts if your pulling that back? Sometimes people use sealant between the bellhousing and the flywheel housing - it may be that this is all gummed up and it needs a lever between the two to break it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Does it look like there is any silicone on the mating flange? We did one and it had been siliconed. I had to drive wedge in to separate them and it was not easy. There is no need to remove the seat box. Never done it. To access upper studs, remove the engine mount rubbers and lower the engine down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 ive been out and had another look,cant see any more anywhere. absolutley no gaps,its rock solid. I will take off the tunnel tomorrow. If I havent missed one ,what else is it likely to be? Mine was well stuck! Sealer around the bellhousing/flywheel housing joint. I suppose it's to make it watertight when wading? A good waggling of the engine, some careful jacking under the g/box and the use of a suitable pry bar separated the engine and box. It will also help if the lifting chain is slightly forward of the vertical (assuming you have removed all the nuts of course!) I found that if engine/box alignment wasn't near perfect the studs jammed in the holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoss1720 Posted January 25, 2010 Author Share Posted January 25, 2010 I will give some welly in the morning and report back then cheers for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirkthe1 Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 also, if all else fails, hit it with a big hammer!!! in a haines manual style, please find attached an image of the correct tool for the job. it does have a 5 star difficulty rating mind! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy Posted January 25, 2010 Share Posted January 25, 2010 Reminds me of mine: I undid all the bolts (both the bell-housing AND engine mounts!) checked and double-checked - hooked up the crane and then pumped the handle....and pumped and pumped and pumped! Nothing! My front wheels were an inch off the floor when it came loose. Hell of a fright it gave me. The moral of the story is to remember that the lump is a 500kg weight on the chassis; so when you're jacking it out a lot of the 'lift' is only really serving to relieve the weight and thus decompress the suspension. The rest of the truck may rise a surprisingly long way before letting go. Oh, and remember to tidy your heater cables out of the way - don't do what I did and snag the bellhousing on them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 Firstly - is your lift point on the engine in such a position that it is balanced? If you are lifting too near the front or off to one side then the torque applied to the dowels may be preventing them from moving, and anyway, once you have parted the joint you will need the engine balanced so as not to apply a bending moment to the gearbox shaft. Not sure if this is correct, but it worked for me (this is RRC/v8 but the principle is the same)... Remove the engine mounting rubbers to allow the whole lot to go lower than it should. Lift the engine until it just contacts the bulkhead, decompressing the suspension on the way. Fit a jack under the front of the gearbox and just take a little of the strain. Lower the engine and watch the gap open at the top of the bell housing (don't go too far - remember the dowels!) Insert a good piece of thin ply or similar in the top gap (not always needed) Take the strain on the engine hoist and ease off on the gearbox jack at the same time (or in increments if you are working alone) - this should part the bottom of the bell-housing. Pack the bottom gap and repeat the above. The dowels (which are sometimes rusted in) engage for about 8-10mm IIRC and it can be difficult until they are disengaged, but once they are out then it's just a matter of getting the balance/angle right while the gearbox shaft comes out of the clutch (or torques converter) and jiggling/pulling until it's free. Hope this helps Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoss1720 Posted January 26, 2010 Author Share Posted January 26, 2010 engine finally out. needed one person on top wiggling and one underneath with a prybar. new engine delivered aswell. all going well so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted January 26, 2010 Share Posted January 26, 2010 all going well so far Glad to hear it - I just spent 5 hours getting the body mounting bolts out on my RRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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