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removing disco 1 body


yogibear47.lee

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It's quite an involved job to take the body off, from memory you've got to take off / disconnect:

The body mount bolts

The seat belt mounts

The radiator mounts

The brake lines

The steering linkage

The gear lever gaitors

The clutch line

The heater water pipes

Air filter to engine hose

The fuel lines, filler, breather

The axle and gearbox breathers

Wiring to the engine, gearboxes, axles, fuel tank, tow bar etc.

Then you've got to have some way to lift and store the body, which weighs a fair amount (not sure what exactly, but 500kg +).

If you do it definately don't take off the doors, the shell will need all the support you can give it and having the doors on and shut will help.

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Never done it but I thought that my thoughts might be helpful:

The list above is pretty comprehensive but there will always be other things.... ;)

Methodical should do it, and allow time for difficulty with the mounting bolts which can be seized and difficult to get to with an angle grinder.

WRT where to lift, then a frame to locate on the mounting points would seem the best idea - I can't really think of another safe and non-damaging method..

Leaving the doors on (and closed) would seem like a good idea too as would checking the integrity of your sills before you start. I reckon that with the sills and their mountings in good condition you could just lift using them, but only if they are in good condition or the whole thing would sag at the ends!

In fact thinking about it - I reckon that good sills are probably a must if you want to do this safely.

Having said all of the above, I have somewhere seen (can't find it now) a series of photos showing body removal and replacement using roughly the following method:

1. All trim and doors removed to reduce the weight of the body.

2. Several wide ratchet straps placed around the roof section through the door apertures.

3. Throw a couple of ropes over convenient beams and lift.

Seemed to work for them!

Roger

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When my body was removed from the chassis the man 'helping' me used a claw grab. Vigarous shaking of the body with the claw grab resulted in the remaining items that were still connected 'freeing up' and the chassis falling neatly to the floor.

I wouldn't recommend this process if you want to re-use either the chassis or body :D

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I've just done a body swap so this is good and current advice.

Dont remove the doors. You need the rigidity in the shell.

Ust two long pieces of timber to support the entire length of each sill to distribute the weight.

Do use a two post ramp if you can get access to one.

Other than that, as plastic badger said, plus

Undo the brake lines at the union in the wheel arch/above back axle - if I were you I'd have replacements to hand.

As you face the bulkhead from the front of the car there are two large bulkhead grommets for the wiring. Left hand can stay in situ, right hand is the engine loom and it's best to undo in the foot well and pull out rather than remove off the engine and pull in.

Only the rear seat belt mounts need to be undone - again, expect trouble - I had to slice and chisel the stupid torx cap bolts off.

Axle breathers etc can be left on, just unclip from the bulkhead.

When seperating the steering column, you only need to undo the lower or upper clamp, leave the central one alone. You will just have to inch it back on when rebuliding - not to hard.

I'd advise you to take your time, don't break anything and do as many jobs as you need to do before dropping the body back on, its extremely easy to do timing belt, clutch etc on the rolling chassis.

Good luck, Stu. (sorry about the photo quality - i had to copy them from my facebook page....)

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  • 5 years later...

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