ajh Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 So, I made some changes and got my front suspension back together and the only odd thing is that now the CV short-shaft is too short, not too short to work, but sits flush with the drive flange end which makes getting the clip back on impossible. It is the same on both ends. The parts changed include using a D1 front axle housing (to add ARB), new britpart swivels, and new vented discs where once solid discs were. Everything feels tight and solid. Just a bit confusing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Don't they 'free-float' a bit? Hence the circlip to hold it in position? I'm sure I've seen mention of 'hooking' a bolt into the threads in the end in order to pull it out enough to get the clip on. Only other thing I can think of is the different axle casing you've put on, perhaps there are differences? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 which driving members are you using ? if early Defender they maybe to thick, possible need the later thinner version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Well, I'm using the ones from the original axle, which was a 1992, but then so are the half-shafts, everything except the housing is spec'ed for the 1992 and the two housings compared side by side seem identical other than the radius arm brackets and ARB mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Did you change the Stub axles? which CVs are you using the later thin drive members are for the 300tdi variant onwards (or very late 200tdi) these are the narrow hub models with the 32 spline CVs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Basically I just put back together everything that I took apart. I guess putting a slide hammer on the threads and trying to pull them out a bit is the next step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Take the drive member off and measure how much of the CV sticks out before you fit it to check if there is going to be enough to go through the drive member, when I fitted new drive members I had to clean the grooves with a needle file to get the cv to pull through enough, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Is the CV seated into its bushing? If it falls off of the bushing, it won't pull out fully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 Well, everything is together and working and both sides are the exact same so I would rule out a fluke like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobed90 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I had the same issue when i rebuilt my hubs. It turned out to be the bronze bushes in the stub axles not being fitted fully at the the factory. I just tapped them in a bit, and it all went together fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKMobile Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Dismantle and check the length of the cv's the early ones seem to be 9&1/2 inch and the later one's are 8&1/2. The other way to check is the splines where the shaft meet's the cv. If there were 23 spline then they will probably be 9&1/2 inch cv's and if the new ones are 32 spline then there the 8&1/2 inch cv's. If you changed to the later ones but have used the original stab's that will be the problem!! new cv's are not long enough for the stub's! In which case you will need to replace the to the hub assembly to match the later stub's. I had the same problem when changing the front end to 24 spline from 10's. Luckily i had an old Disco 1 front axle already stripped down an used the parts from that. Hope this help's?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Well, everything is together and working and both sides are the exact same so I would rule out a fluke like that. It is not a fluke. It is quite easy if you are not careful. When assembling, you need to make sure you hold the CV joint inside the bushing or it gets stuck off of the bushing. There is enough space in the swivel housing to push the CV joint off of the bushing. Get a bolt in the CV and wiggle it around and see if you can get it into the bushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 I will try wiggling but the wheels spin freely and everything lines up fine. To the previous reply, as stated the only things that changes were the housing and swivel balls, the rest is original. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orange Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 I had the same issue when i rebuilt my hubs. It turned out to be the bronze bushes in the stub axles not being fitted fully at the the factory. I just tapped them in a bit, and it all went together fine. ^^^ wot he said!! I know it would be a fluke for both sides to be like it, but it's happened before. How is the steering? If the wheels won't turn from lock-to-lock, then this is your problem........ Either try tapping the bronze bushes back home properly, or rotate the stub axle throught 90 degrees and refit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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