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Brake pipe fittings


Night Train

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If anyone would be able to tell me in simple terms it would be someone here.

I want to pipe up a couple of Series 3 clutch master cylinders to a pair of Corsa/Tigra front brake calipers for my project.

How do I work out what size the pipe fittings are so I can buy the right ones?

I think I am going to use either two master cylinders or one master cyclinder and two slave cyclinders to have fiddle brakes and main brakes together.

Thank you.

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Excellent, thank you.

Now I know that they don't match but there is a possible fix. I would like to be able to make up my own pipe work to fit but I will find out the cost of getting them made.

I don't mind a leak proof bodge with metric fitting on imperial pipe or vice versa as it is only going on a compact tractor with a top speed of 10mph. No flexibles needed either as the transaxle is all solid to the chassis.

I knew Land Rover folk would know! :D

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Corsa/Tigra pipe fittings will be M10 x 1, but the series clutch master will be imperial (7/16" UNF I think ?).

The other problem is that there are also two pipe sizes - 3/16" for the corsa/tigra, and 1/4" for the clutch master.

Les.

Series clutch masters will be 3/8"UNF on the outlet for 3/16" pipe, they used an adaptor screwed into the outlet port to increase the size to 7/16"UNF on the S3 clutch to suit the larger 1/4" pipe.

Right, that is good.

I can have a 3/16" pipe with 3/8" UNF at one end and M10x1 at the other end.

Thank you.

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Unless your transaxle is on very solid 'solid mounts' ( better than most VeeDub solid mount kits! ) I would bend at least a piggy-tail into the pipe or better still uses flexi... there us more movement / vibration than a fixed pipe will enjoy.... even with the transaxle on steel mounts I know loads of VWs that split the pipe on hydraulic clutch conversions.

Are the calipers acting on the transaxle as fiddles in addition to the footbrake calipers?? If they are then to save all the extra fabrication and the endfloat in the output flanges making the cylinder ytavel excessive ( depends on what transaxle you are using as to how bad this problem usually is ) then it will be far easier and less work to plumb the master cylinders in line to the rear on the main footbrake circuit.... a bit like having a rally car style hydraulic handbrake for each independant rear wheel.

Give me a call if you are struggling with the plumbing - this is the sort of job I do most days of the week

many thanks

david

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Thanks David.

For fear of this being locked for being off topic :ph34r: here are some photos of the said project. It will have Land Rover master cylinders and eventually some big Land Rover knobbly tyres.

DSC00455.jpg

You can see the discs just inboard of the wheels.

DSC00444.jpg

The drive chain

DSC00449.jpg

This is the back end of the transaxle. It has some very hefty mountings that the 6mm steel platform is bolted to and those will make good brake caliper mounts. I was banking on having a curly 'pigtail' of pipe before the caliper connection and probably also to the master cylinders too in case of flex or vibration.

I think for the small amount of cost in having one master cylinder and two inline slaves the benfit would be worth while.

I would then have a throttle and service brake on the right foot and a pair of fiddle brakes on the left foot.

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I like silly toys !!!!

I see what you are doing now... one master for each wheel, 2 pedals and a bar to lock them together seems the 'tractor style' way forward here.

Might still be as easy to go braided all the way - £ 30ish would buy you 2 hoses that would go all the way from masters to calipers and they are easy to route and clip along the way

David

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Glad you approve, David.

I am chatting with a chap in the States who is building one with a 13" motor and 2000A controller. That will be a real hotrod tractor puller.

My motor is only 7" and maybe 200A

I hadn't considered the long flexibles due to the mismatched ends but at that price it may make things easier. The build so far has come in at less then £100 and I am trying to keep cost down so I can invest in the batteries.

I will mount the calipers and cylinders and see what the pipe run is like.

Thanks.

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  • 1 month later...

I think I am about ready to get brake pipes sorted out on this little project.

The brakes look like this fitted.

DSC00600.jpg

DSC00602.jpg

DSC00603.jpg

The tractor looks like this so far.

DSC00607.jpg

The seat and batteries are for setting up so I can get he steering column and pedal positions right.

David, I will get in touch about some flexible brake pipes. I will need flexibles, I now realise, as the calipers slide and I will need to allow for movement and disassembly to change pads.

Land Rover content:

Tyres 265 75 16

Steering box

Master cylinders

Brain cells

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  • 3 months later...

OK, finally ready for brake pipes, this has taken longer then I thought.

I need two flexi pipes, each 1.5m long, to go from the master cylinders to the calipers.

This is the pedal and master cylinder set up.

DSC00968.jpg

Return springs nicked from an old Angle Poise lamp.

DSC00972.jpg

Left brake.

DSC00970.jpg

Right brake.

DSC00971.jpg

I have ordered a second cylinder with reserviour and I will just run with the two and a link across the pedals.

So what I need is to match the cylinders to the calipers now.

Will fire off a pm to David. :)

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Looks good :D and those brake lines look rather snazzy!

How come you have two brake pedals? not skid steer? :unsure:

When david asked me what colour I wanted I thought he meant the end fittings with the pipes being in stainless. In my mind I was imagining annodised red fittings. They look a lot nicer as red pipe. I just have to not confuse them for red cable when they are wrapped up with the loom!

The two pedals are for steering brakes. The pedals are big enough to stomp on both together for main braking or separately for steering. The only confusing thing is that the left cylinder is for the right pedal and brake and vice versa.

I was going to have a third cylinder for the foot brake but this saves making another pedal and then having more pipe and a T piece. I will have to see if I need to have a lock to lock the two pedals together or not. If I do then I will just put a door bolt in to go through the pedal arms where they are close together.

Here's a video I shot of it a couple of weeks ago to send to my friend Jim in the States. No brakes and just a slider pot in my hand.

th_BenchTest06210710TestDrive.jpg

It is now all in pieces being painted ready for moving out of the workshop.

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The tractor is now outside and I have fitted the brake pipes and added fluid.

DSC01047.jpg

DSC01046.jpg

DSC01045.jpg

The pedals are incredibly hard!

I will need to adjust the ratio of the pedal length, or get twin servos and a vac pump! :D

It is now living in the trailer.

DSC01054.jpg

Land Rover content:

285 75 16 tyres

Series three steering column and ignition/steering lock

Series three master cylinders

Llama4x4 pipes

TD5 throttle pedal

Optima batteries

The madness

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