Jump to content

rear brake drum removal


Recommended Posts

hi there

i'm trying to replace my rear break shoes on my landy 90 but can't get the drum off it both of them seems stuck. i'm remove the screw but still seems to be stuck even wit a hammer anyone have an idea i've put loads of wd40.... also the adjuster screw when i turn it clockwise or anti-clockwise it never stop keep turning.do you think it need replacement?

thanks for your advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also the adjuster screw when i turn it clockwise or anti-clockwise it never stop keep turning.do you think it need replacement?

You'll be able to check the snail-shell shaped cam when the drum is off. If your brakes are really worn it's probably hardly touching the back of the shoe.

1) Does the hub spin ok? or are the brakes catching on the drum?

2) Is the drum free of the hub - does it move at all (even a little bit)

3) If it is moving, can you feel a ridge where the drum gets stuck on the shoes?

If the drum just hasn't come free of the hub yet, it's probably rusted on. There's alot of surface area and they can get well rusted on. Use a block of wood and try and knock the drum off. Watch you don't catch the back plate. If you don't use a bit of wood you'll risk shattering/chipping the drum. Work around the drum equally, else it's likely to jam.

Luke

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi thanks for the reply. yeah it seems that the shoes are badly worn coze everytime i hit the brake i can hear a really like scratchy noise!!! i guess it's rusted on the plate. if i manage to get it off i'll check the adjuster. is it hard to replace the adjuster i found a kit for it so i'm just wondering if it's worth replacing while i'm doing the shoes?

thanks

thierry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There should be a threaded hole in the drum. This is to enable a bolt to be screwed in to lever the drum off. It will make it come off wonky, so drift off with a block of wood on the opposite side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drum brakes can be a complete b**t**d to get off, tapping and revolving works well plus using that threaded hole but be warned if you thread the hole too much the drum gets cocked and will not come off. Don't be afraid to hit the drum a few times to shock it but avoid pounding it too hard with a steel hammer for the all of the above reasons. Don't give up it will come off and land in your lap...eventually

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi thanks again for the reply. I've tried yesterday but with no luck I'll try again this evening won't give up try the hot air. What about a hair dryer!! Will that any help? Any also I connect my winch to my battery yesterday with the landy on but it drain the battery completely! Is it better to connect it directly to the terminar with a kill switch or there's a better way? How does the kill switch work if you remove the plug does it cut your landy as well or just the winch? Thanks for your help guys I'm only finding my way around

thierry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes these can a a sod to remove. Fortunately I've not had to touch a drum brake for a long time.

However - make sure the adjusters are backed right off. You've already removed the countersunk screws (maybe as many as 3).

If you have a copper mallet don't be afraid to give the flat face that seats against the hub a bit of a clang to help dislodge any rust that's holding it all together. I don't advise a hammer, as others have already said.

The threaded hole can be a great help to aid jacking the drum off :ph34r: IIRC the thread is 5/16" UNC. I'm just trying to think where else on the truck uses a screw with that thread. As there is only one hole, and it's offset, give it a turn just to apply some pressure, then use a decent lever/screwdriver inserted the opposite side of the drum to lever with. The drums are often a tight fit around centre hole, a squirt of WD40 or similar in that direction may help.

Persistence will pay off here, wind the screw up a little and lever it; then a gentle knock with a mallet (or hammer and wooden block). Keep going like that, just don't give up.

Oh, BTW, I have never found the need to use heat on a brake drum.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Neither have I when working on a Land Rover - 109 and 110. The time I used heat was on a Russian GAZ 69. Three brake drums had this threaded hole and were no problem to get/push off. The fourth drum didn't...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Focus' rear drums are both rusted solid on. No screw holes to aid removal on those, and you can't get behind the drums easily to 'tap' them with a hammer.

Bloody things, it is my firm belief that drum brakes have no place on any car made since 1975 <_<

Hope you have better luck that me, I gave up on them and just left it. The front discs do most of the work anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy