series lights

[Gem]

Hi, could anyone tell me how i can get a brighter beam on my series 11a, they have new bulbs, and the actual lights are good. is it the relay or something. (if there is one). cheers

[rtbarton]

There's no relay as standard.

What type of bulbs are you using?

Check the battery voltage is up to spec (14 and a bit with the engine running at fast tickover)

Check the earths on the lamp units, a bad earth could put the filaments in series. Don't rely on the front panel bolts giving a good earth, a thick wire between battery earth & the front panel may help.

Are the lightswitch or dipswitch getting warm? This would indicate a faulty switch, same applies to the bullet connectors and fuses.

[Varsas]

Perhaps you could try wiring one of the light directly up to the battery (do +ve first, then put that back and run earth straight to the battery...I'm not sure I'd do both wires at the same time...your call), if it's now brigter then the other one you have a fault, if not that's just how they are and better bulbs and/or upgraded lamps are you best bet.

[errol209]

If Mr Barton's comprehensive list doesn't help, and you are still using sealed beam units, it will depend on how attached to the series "period feel" you are.

You could swap to halogen headlamp units (with seperate H4 bulbs), which are a tiny bit better.

Then add high output 55/60W bulbs (+80% are available) which are a major improvement.

The last upgrade (and it will only be a little one from here) is to go to Crystal headlamp bowls, which might look odd on a series, as they are clear fronted.

[Gazzar]

If Mr Barton's comprehensive list doesn't help, and you are still using sealed beam units, it will depend on how attached to the series "period feel" you are.

You could swap to halogen headlamp units (with seperate H4 bulbs), which are a tiny bit better.

Then add high output 55/60W bulbs (+80% are available) which are a major improvement.

The last upgrade (and it will only be a little one from here) is to go to Crystal headlamp bowls, which might look odd on a series, as they are clear fronted.

As designed, all the current for the lights go through the switch, which is a lot of current. It also means the current goes through a longish wire before hitting the lamps. Upgrading the lamps means more current is drawn, and the risk of a much hotter switch.

With 30 year old wiring, and associated current drops, that means that a lot of the "juice" is lost along the way.

You may find that you only have 10 volts at the lamps.

The two above problems result in lower output from the lamps.

I would suggest the following:

Use the existing switch wire as a relay control wire.

Run new wire from the battery, through a fuse, to the radiator front, along the existing wire route.

Cut the wire from the switch to the main beams, along the front of the radiator.

Run a new wire to (good) earth from the radiator area.

Thus you have 4 wires:

one from the switch

one to the lights

one to earth

one from the battery (fused)

Then connect them to a new relay:

This way you have a short power run, using good wire straight to the lamps, and only a low current through the expensive switch.

G.

[errol209]

As designed, all the current for the lights go through the switch, which is a lot of current. It also means the current goes through a longish wire before hitting the lamps. Upgrading the lamps means more current is drawn, and the risk of a much hotter switch.

I didn't suggest higher power bulbs (which would be illegal for on-raod use anyway): +80% 55/60W bulbs draw the same current as ordinary 55/60W bulbs, they're just miles brighter. I do agree with adding a relay anyway though, whether it's on a series or a Defender.

[Gem]

Thanks. I am using new halogen bulbs, in wipac units, so I presume they should be ok, and must have been changed by the previous owner, instead of lucas ones. I'll check the earth connection, the switches don't get hot, although with the foot operated dip switch, I can't tell. I think the battery is getting full charge, but will check. Maybe I will update the headlights, one day, after doing a few of the other things that could do with being done...

[Gem]

Brilliant! thanks. presumably I can get a relay from any motor factors?

[FridgeFreezer]

I agree with adding a relay and a FUSE

As standard the Series lighting circuit is not fused because the glass ones can't take the current, if you move the headlights onto a relay with its own fuse you can then stick the rest through a ~10A fuse (there may even be a spare slot in your fusebox) which will help prevent wiring fires should a tail light go short circuit.

I have the crystal headlights and think they are just about OK looks-wise, the angel-eye ones are horrific and should be burned.

[rtbarton]

You can get relays with an integral fuseholder

Fused Relay

[Gazzar]

I didn't suggest higher power bulbs (which would be illegal for on-raod use anyway): +80% 55/60W bulbs draw the same current as ordinary 55/60W bulbs, they're just miles brighter. I do agree with adding a relay anyway though, whether it's on a series or a Defender.

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that you did, if that was the impression, forgive me. I should have been clearer (brighter?), I think the modern standard of 60 watts represents an upgrade on the original system.

I suspect the original series 1 lamps were lower wattage than 60watts, though couldn't be bothered to look it up. The system was never changed.

The standard system is inadequate for modern standard lamps unless in absolutely new condition.

G.

[Phil Hancock]

IIRC the old pre focus bulbs were 50/40w.

[Ratty43]

I've put the halogen upgrade lights in my fiance's mini and the difference beggers belief even on standard H4 bulbs, they also pay for themselves over time as the bulbs are much cheaper than the sealed beam units. As a matter of interest I can't see why the glass fuses can't take the current since nearly every classic runs 35amp blow glass fuses, somewhat in excess of the 10 odd that seled beams take surely?

[Rich_P]

The problem is that everything else that is fused will be using that same fuse. They are on a 2A anyway.