bearings moving

[Tonk]

got a prob with inner race of taper bearing moving, have tried bearing lock on it but it still breaks free and starts rotating where it shouldn't, any suggestions on how to stop/lock it from rotating? liquid metal?

TIA

Mark

[Les Henson]

I've used epoxy twin-pack (those twin tube things)glue to do this sort of thing Tonk. Yet to have this type of adhesive fail. Just make sure the surface is grease free.

Les.

[Diff]

got a prob with inner race of taper bearing moving, have tried bearing lock on it but it still breaks free and starts rotating where it shouldn't, any suggestions on how to stop/lock it from rotating? liquid metal?

TIA

Mark

Hi Mark, you can use a centre punch to make some marks all the way around the circumference of the fitting area. The punching causes raised areas around the impact point. You don't need to centre punch very hard to make the bearing a tight fit, so be careful. This technique usually works best on sloppy fits when combined with 'bearing fit' liquid, or something similar providing the area and bearing is well degreased.

If you degrease and roughen the area and the bearing back with some emery paper, something like JB weld or liquid metal should also give you a very firm fit, though I don't know how easy it would be to change in the future should you need too.

Regards,

Diff

[minivin]

never had a problem with 638 retainer, which grade were you using?

alternative and costly method is hard chromium build-up, my friend in Hayling Island has done a crankshaft for me in the past on the mainshaft

[Tonk]

i done the centre punch trick with bearing lock but they still moved, admittedly i didn't do many punch marks though.

i might give jb weld a go

[MogLite]

Can you get a grub screw in there ?

[Tonk]

unfortuneatly not, inside of tube is splined

[Les Henson]

I posted a thread on here a short while ago concerbning the damage to a Pajero due to the crank bolt not being tightened. The crank pulley, camshaft timing sprocket, idler shaft sprocket, and both woodruff keys were damaged and the nose of the crank was badly worn. A repaired crank and new sprockets etc was the way to go, but the customer couldn't afford it. The end result being that a replaced all the parts with the exception of the crank repair. The woodruff key slots were worn in one direction, so i glued them up against the good face of the slot with a tiny amount of epoxy, and then filled the gap that was left - again with epoxy. Once dry I fitted a new crank front seal, then the idler sprocket, camshaft belt sprocket. I used the crank bolt and a spacer to put pressure and to align them while the glue dried. I re-fitted the belts, and timing cover, and once again put a layer of glue around the end of the crank and did the bolt up as normal - this centred the crank pulley. The engine runs fine and there doesn't appear to be any noticeable oscillation of the pulley. The chap that owns the vehicle uses it every day and tows a caravan as well on the odd occasion. No sign of any problems so far, which is good.

The 2.5N/A engine that was in catflap had this same problem and I did this exact same repair then. I used it off-road and for forestry work, and when I removed the engine the repair was still solid.

The glue will let go with a lot of heat, so if necessary you can still take it all apart.

Les.

[Tonk]

cheers Les,

i can see u're a bit of a bodger

[LandyManLuke]

Epoxy is incredibly strong stuff, especially when mixed properly and at the right temperature. we've glued bits of boat together with it without any worries at all, after testing showed that the wood would shear itself before the epoxy gave way. i know engines/crankshafts are a different ball game, but the stuff is incredibly strong.

Luke

[LR90]

Musr admit I was impressed with the AA man's QuickMetal fix to my lift pump. We used to use something similar on the ships and I'd forgotten how good it is.