PaulN Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Have read with interest 'Retroanacondas' thread about the above for an MOT and I am in the middle of doing mine. I wished I had found his thread before now to confirm (and save the head scratching) that the sill does have to come off to remove the old one. I also notice that the new one is not the same moulded shape as the old one so I hope it will fit in there ok! My question is should you paint all that lovely new shiny alluminium before the new one from 'YRM' is fitted or can it be fitted and left? (provided it is kept out of contact with steel). I noticed that 'Western' recommended some underseal at the end (presumably for the underside) - can that be splashed onto the bare alli? without pre-etch treatment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 best to give any bare ally a coat of etch primer before any other covering finish, at least it'll have more than a fighting chance to put up with stone chips 7 rubbish sprayed up by the tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Have read with interest 'Retroanacondas' thread about the above for an MOT and I am in the middle of doing mine. I wished I had found his thread before now to confirm (and save the head scratching) that the sill does have to come off to remove the old one. I also notice that the new one is not the same moulded shape as the old one so I hope it will fit in there ok! My question is should you paint all that lovely new shiny alluminium before the new one from 'YRM' is fitted or can it be fitted and left? (provided it is kept out of contact with steel). I noticed that 'Western' recommended some underseal at the end (presumably for the underside) - can that be splashed onto the bare alli? without pre-etch treatment? Western Is right it will need an etch coat I use Hammerit special metals primer and slap it on with a brush. Its water based but great stuff and it dries realy fast too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somethingwitty Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Re aluminium to steel joints (including washers / bolts etc) have you heard of Duralac? Many haven't but its used extensivley on aircraft and stops electrolytic corrosion between disimilar metals - I now stick it between everything and use it on bolts. £6 for a small tin, from www.eliseparts.co.uk (or similarly named place) also do tubes. The stuff tends to skin a bit readily in the tin so I might go for the tubes next time. White spirit based, yellowy green, brushes on (or use a screwdriver to spread about a bit). I would always paint ally where possible, and I use UPOL etch primer, expensive but good and convenient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 19, 2010 Share Posted September 19, 2010 Re aluminium to steel joints (including washers / bolts etc) have you heard of Duralac? Many haven't but its used extensivley on aircraft and stops electrolytic corrosion between disimilar metals - I now stick it between everything and use it on bolts. £6 for a small tin, from www.eliseparts.co.uk (or similarly named place) also do tubes. The stuff tends to skin a bit readily in the tin so I might go for the tubes next time. White spirit based, yellowy green, brushes on (or use a screwdriver to spread about a bit). I would always paint ally where possible, and I use UPOL etch primer, expensive but good and convenient. I think that might be the stuff that they are using during the rebuild of Blue bird K7! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulN Posted September 19, 2010 Author Share Posted September 19, 2010 Thanks Guys! really helpfull..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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