jonost24 Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Got the landy in the garage for the MS project. 3.5 V8 4sp auto. Had to push it in so knocked everything into neutral & pushed it in. I've got TDC but want to remove the pulley. If I put it into low range, shift it into 1st, handbrake on, chock the wheels.. Should this lock the engine up? Or is there something weird with an auto? Another daft question...it's not a LH thread is it? Any advice most welcome. Cheers, Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 fuel cut off wire disconnected. Socket and breaker bar on nut, wedge bar under chassis on drivers side and crank her over........ It worked for me (300Tdi)....but not for the faint hearted. Do not do this till someone else confirms as i am unfamiliar with the 3.5 V8 engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scube Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Yes that works a treat.. Quick flick of the ignition switch and off it pops. make sure you fix the socket / braker bar so it does not jump off. Doing it back up is a different matter.. I had to jam a good shaped tool into the starter ring to lock the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Something like this worked well for my tdi (see my posts in this thread): http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38651&hl Allowed me to safely undo and more importantly torque up properly afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 I don't think you can lock an auto by putting it in gear or P. I think you'll have to whip off the starter and jam the ring gear with something like a hard wood block. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 That's what I thoght Nigel. Hence the original question. Considering most of the top is off -trumpet base, fuel rail etc, wires disconnected, I don't think I could spin the motor anyway . I thinks it's a case of what you say with the starter motor. A bit more scrabbling about under neath trying to find the starter motor bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 IIRC one bolt is a bit of a swine - I think I needed 2 10" extensions - the other is quite easy. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 9, 2010 Share Posted October 9, 2010 It's often easier to remove the bell housing cover plate than the starter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Share Posted October 9, 2010 There's a cover on the bellhousing? Where dat den? The little round plate under neath? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Yeah, on the front face of the housing, there's about 8 bolts holding it on, but they are small, easily undone and rarely sieze. It's a half moon shaped piece of cast ali, and is removed to allow you to do/undo the torque converter bolts With it removed you get to see around a quarter of the edge of the ring gear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean f Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 The other way of doing this is a tool which bolts to the crank pulley via the 4 reataining bolts on the pulley, has a long arm to rest on the chassis and a hole in the centre to allow a socket to undo the crank bolt. Bolt it in place, rotate the engine till it is resting on something solid then undo the pulley bolt with a big breaker bar. I have found that even with a manual gearboxs and the vehicle in gear there is often enough play in the transmission that the braker bar runs out of travel before the bolt undoes. Difflock sell them in there shop, I think they list them as for a V8 but the fit a 200tdi for certain (I have used one on both) and the bolt pattern for a 300tdi is the same so should fit. Not the cheapest tool around but works well, for those on a budget or just plain tight if you have a bit of machining ability it should be possible to make your own version with a bit of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 The other way of doing this is a tool which bolts to the crank pulley via the 4 reataining bolts on the pulley,. for those on a budget or just plain tight if you have a bit of machining ability it should be possible to make your own version with a bit of work. You mean like the one i made in the link i put up above? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 Careful, the later V8s had 6 bolt pulleys and that tool won't fit, and the even later ones (serp) have just two threaded holes, and no bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted October 10, 2010 Author Share Posted October 10, 2010 I agree, the right tool for the job does make life easier, but @ £72, a bit costly for possibly a one-off job. If I don't have any luck with the starter ring method, I might snaffle some GFS from work and knock one of the tools up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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