macandrc Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Only had my rrc for a couple of weeks and within 2 hours of purchasing it the oil pipe from the torque converter (in the gearbox) to the oil cooler broke and all the hydraulic fluid leaked and i limped back to the garage! got the car back thursday and its been driving fine until 1 hour ago when it started driving like it was on kangaroo fuel (jumping between 1000 - 2000rpm constantly), at first for only 10 seconds but by the time i got home it was doing it all the time! if i pulled over for a minute and then carried on it would be fine for 30 seconds before starting again (kangarooing along at 5-10 mph)! i did take a look in the engine bay and found a plug lying loose at the front passenger side of the engine bay (2 female spade type) and i also notice a twin male connector on an oil pipe leading to the oil cooler without any plug on it so i connected the two together but didnt make any difference! Also have had a belt squealing int eh bay every so often, but dont know if thats related? Has anyone got any ideas whats making the car do this? could it be a fuel issue or gearbox? and does it sound like that connector goes onto the oil pipe? any help greatly appreciated, especially with 15cm of snow and work 30 miles away! colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macandrc Posted November 27, 2010 Author Share Posted November 27, 2010 totally forgot the important info: 1991 3.9 V8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Double check the box fluid level, sounds like it could be seriously low.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveRK Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Some basic checks to isolate the gearbox from an engine fault would be to hold fixed revs the engine in neutral to see if it runs stable or not. If when driving the revs surge then if the gearbox is o.k. the car should also surge at the same time, if it doesn't then something is 'slipping' in the gearbox drive. from you kangaroo description it sounds like the vehicle is surging as the revs climb so I would check that (if fitted) the gearbox to inlet manifold vacuum pipe is intact as a starting point as the symptoms could indicate a large air leak somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 27, 2010 Share Posted November 27, 2010 Steve, I'm pretty sure there's no vacuum line between gearbox and engine intake... I've had 2 1991 RRCs and neither had this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macandrc Posted November 28, 2010 Author Share Posted November 28, 2010 Thanks for all the replies, I have been back out in the rangie and found that it surges in neutral too! so im guessing its a problem with fuel starvation somewhere? any ideas or help gratefully accepted as im not used to the complexities of the V8 as i have always had a tdi 90 and only just moved onto petrol's! colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverbo Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 Thanks for all the replies, I have been back out in the rangie and found that it surges in neutral too! so im guessing its a problem with fuel starvation somewhere? any ideas or help gratefully accepted as im not used to the complexities of the V8 as i have always had a tdi 90 and only just moved onto petrol's! colin Hi Colin, Welcome to the happy world of the classic V8 . I would first check "the usual V8 suspects", Idle air valve, fuel temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, in-tank fuel pump. Download the RAVE cd and read the right measuring values. Oh, and for the two loose spade plugs, I have them lying unconnected too. Can´t remember their function, but leave them unconnected. And in this damp weather, try to spray some silicone on the ignition parts, dizzy, coil, leads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macandrc Posted November 28, 2010 Author Share Posted November 28, 2010 Hi Colin, Welcome to the happy world of the classic V8 . I would first check "the usual V8 suspects", Idle air valve, fuel temp sensor, coolant temp sensor, in-tank fuel pump. Download the RAVE cd and read the right measuring values. Oh, and for the two loose spade plugs, I have them lying unconnected too. Can´t remember their function, but leave them unconnected. And in this damp weather, try to spray some silicone on the ignition parts, dizzy, coil, leads. Thanks for the info, when i switch on the ignition on i can hear the pump kicking in for a second or two so im guessing its got power and at least trying to pump! engine does stall if you rev it then let it idle? colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverbo Posted November 28, 2010 Share Posted November 28, 2010 Thanks for the info, when i switch on the ignition on i can hear the pump kicking in for a second or two so im guessing its got power and at least trying to pump! engine does stall if you rev it then let it idle? colin Sounds like your pump is allright; It builds up the pressure and then turns off until the engine is started (if yoy have a pressure gauge, the pressure on the fuel rail should be 2,0 bar (but check this in RAVE). When the engine runs, your pump should run constantly (I can hear the pump if I stand behind the car, non-exhaust side) - the surplus fuel being led back to the tank via the fuel pressure regulator valve. Search this forum for Idle air valve, you´ll find hundreds of subjects, it is often subject to idling trouble. The stepper motor valve should open fully before engine is started, and then regulate the idling by pushing the piston in/out (closing for airflow) to meet the correct revs (800 r/min). Another thing that could cause erratic running is lost contact to one or both lambda sensors. Again, the RAVE describes how you measure, it isn´t difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Hi Colin, does it miss or do the revs just jump up and down? I imagine you've already checked the simple things like the linkage itself to make sure there's nothing loose, but worth a look if not. At those revs it's between idle and low use, so if there's any slack it could surge. If it misses rather than surges, CAREFULLY put your hands on the headers to see if you can find the cooler exhaust, at least that will give you a hint where to look next. If it's missing across all the pots sporadically then you know it's a component that interacts with everything which will eliminate plugs/leads/injectors etc. I know my post is 'basic', but i start with the easy bits before launching into the evil word of electrics and sensors!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 A safer way to do that is to wet the manifold then start the engine, the missfiring one will dry out more slowly. The posh way is an infra red thermometer but they cost a few quid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 A safer way to do that is to wet the manifold then start the engine, the missfiring one will dry out more slowly. The posh way is an infra red thermometer but they cost a few quid. Excellent idea. That'll stop me burning my fingers in the future! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macandrc Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 I ended up sending the range rover to my local garage as i didnt have time and need the vehicle for work. Turns out it was one of the sensors on the back left of the engine manifold, all running perfectly now. can anyone recommend some tyres for using in snow? and what size can i fit with standard suspension? thanks colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iomlt Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 bfgoodrich all terrains. ideal on a rrc something like a 265/75/16 would go on with ease. i think..... awesome tyre and last for YEARS!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Range Rover Blues Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 They'd get my vote too, though you don't need to go wide (better not to in the snow) so I'd suggest 235.70 unless you have a lift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverbo Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 They'd get my vote too, though you don't need to go wide (better not to in the snow) so I'd suggest 235.70 unless you have a lift. I´d vote for 235R70 too, mostly because wider (and more heavy) tires are more likely to expose even the beginning of worn bushes and steering parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunc Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 Yep, i'm running with the 235/70 crowd here too, although i'd suggest Insa Turbo Rangers. They're a copy of the original BFG A/T pattern. Work really well in snow on a Classic in my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted December 2, 2010 Share Posted December 2, 2010 235/75 or 245/70 (what I'm running) fits nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.