this dont seem correct

[nino]

evening all

have done a search on here and on google and had a look thru a haynes book of bull**** on how to do the wheel bearings on the td5 axles

the bit i dont think is right is where you need to torque up the new hub nut up to 210nm/155lbft and check for end float??

now at that torque i am not getting any rotational movement from the hub ok thats a lie i am but its very stiff to turn

is this correct or have i misread the book or gone wrong sumwhere??

im no stranger to wheel bearings as i have done loads on my old 200tdi discovery as bordon play sites seemed to kill them with no problems

thanks all

[Diff]

evening all

have done a search on here and on google and had a look thru a haynes book of bull**** on how to do the wheel bearings on the td5 axles

the bit i dont think is right is where you need to torque up the new hub nut up to 210nm/155lbft and check for end float??

now at that torque i am not getting any rotational movement from the hub ok thats a lie i am but its very stiff to turn

is this correct or have i misread the book or gone wrong sumwhere??

im no stranger to wheel bearings as i have done loads on my old 200tdi discovery as bordon play sites seemed to kill them with no problems

thanks all

TD5 Axles have a machined spacer between the bearings, this determines the preload, which is why you tighten the single nut up so much. If you can't turn the wheel, then the spacer is too small or is missing.

On the earlier design, there is no spacer and the bearings are adjusted using the inner nut of the pair and the outer nut is used as a lock nut.

Hope this helps, Regards, Diff.

[western]

& you can convert your Td5 hubs to the older 2 nut & washer type of bearing nuts.

[nino]

its a early type td5

i need to remove the nut and bearing again tomorrow and see what colour/size the middle spacer is

i thought all spacers were the biggest size as standard then you go down in size depending how much play you got unless theyve been done before and the smaller spacer was used to remove the play in old bearings??

im goin to be ordering new nuts and locking tabs tomorrow and put back to old type as ive seen threads on this

[Anderzander]

Would you share the required part numbers to convert to the old type please?

[SiWhite]

x2. I'd love to know how to convert the hubs...

[western]

in this thread, but the photo links are dead

[Retroanaconda]

Should be 2 x lock nuts (FRC8700), a thrust washer (FTC3185), and a locknut (FTC3179).

I think the bearings and stub axles are the same, but I'm not so sure on the drive member arrangement. I think it's the same (shims to space CV/halfshaft out where necessary and then a circlip) followed by the rubber cap.

[nino]

yea the 200tdi axle had some spacers on the cv shaft with a cir clip as does my td5 axles

do i need the trust washer as theres one allready there? cant i just take off the single nut and middle bearing spacer and fit the double lock nit with locking tab??

[Retroanaconda]

I don't know what is present on later axles, but if the thrust washer is the same as above then in theory yes.

It's there to transfer the force from the inner nut (the one that applies the pre-load) to the inner race of the outer bearing. Without it the nut would be acting directly on it, which wouldn't be ideal for tightening etc. (The thrust washer is keyed to prevent rotation). It also serves as a spacer, as there is only so much thread on the end of the stub axle and it may be the case that you couldn't apply any pre-load to the bearing before you run out of thread.

Earlier (pre-disc brakes) rear hubs had a different type of thrust washer, a much thicker type with a rubber section. This was there to provide a track for the outer hub seal to run on (called a seal track spacer, funnily enough!). People often removed the seals to allow axle oil into the hub and bearings, but one can't just replace the seal track spacer with a thrust washer, as the stub axle thread is not long enough, so you just re-fit the spacer and all is well

Why they couldn't just make them all the same I don't know

[JimAttrill]

In our workshop we automatically convert all TD5 bearing shims to the old type with two nuts. I buy the nuts by the gross so we never run out. The TD5 thingys are useful for easily replacing the washers into 110 front calipers without damage.

IIRC Bearmach used to sell a 'kit' to do the conversion.

[nino]

just got my parts to do the conversion

from the part numbers that retroanaconda listed all that is needed was the nuts and locking tab as i was told by the person i got the parts from the thrust washer was the same as the td5 one so thats 4 less items to get